Dirt bikes

Discussion in 'General' started by Wheel Bearing, Oct 27, 2015.


    MELK-MAN The Dude abides...

    i always grind off the pin tops with dremel, but as some said already, gotta get a chain tool. Used a few, the RK is much better than the motion pro imo. Without pressing the side plate on too much, see if you can slide the edge of the master link clip into the groove. (just the outer edge of the clip). Once it will slide into the groove, that's all ya need to press. Not pressing plate enough will have you f-ing up your clip if you try to slide it on, or , ruining o/x rings if pressed too much.

    wallowing the link holes out is changing your chain pitch size will prematurely wear the chain and/or sprockets (if you did that enough). no need for this, ever.

    and for those that think sticky chain lube is required for sealed chains... (all i use is wd40 after a ride), have ya noticed there ALWAYS grease (although darker now) on the master link pins when you remove the master link ? ;) Sticky lubes just ruin sprockets and chains faster imo.

    I get 60 hrs or so out of a chain (and mine would still be used by some).
    I use 2 front sprockets or so for each chain .. riding 2+ hrs a day 4+ days a week in the FL sand/woods/roots. ONce the teeth start to slope a reasonable amount, put a new 13t on .
    Not too much mud, but we get some in national enduro and ya aren't taking care of the chain much between sections during these events.
    cBJr likes this.
  2. 83BSA

    83BSA Well-Known Member

    I don't use an o-ring chain on dirt bikes. I don't use o-ring chains on the vintage race bikes. Changing sprockets and chains regularly on those vehicles is just good maintenance. Keep 'em lubed and adjusted and change regularly. Good (DID, RK), non-o-ring chains are readily available and reasonably priced.

    Street bikes and modern race bikes get o-ring chains in my garage.

    As Melk said, once you can slip the clip on the link post and it seats in the groove and you can rotate it (make sure you try both posts as the plate may be a bit cocked), don't press the side plate on any more. You can crush the O-rings or otherwise put the link into a serious bind, i.e., not good. I don't just slip the edge of the clip into the groove - I place the closed end of the clip over each post and make sure it seats in the groove and then rotate it. Just habit, I guess.


  3. TLR67

    TLR67 Well-Known Member

    Just got done with building a stock 18 RMZ 450... Can’t wait to play and do some scrambles...
    MELK-MAN likes this.
  4. Spitz

    Spitz Well-Known Member

    I don't use an o-ring chain either on the dirty bike. I bought one and found out it rubbed the case, that i needed spacers etc. F-that! I bought a good chain, it gets taken off every ride, run through my solvent cleaner at work, reinstalled and slathered with lube, right along with the air filter. After the initial adjustment i haven't touched it in 5 hours of riding, which surprised me.

    MELK-MAN The Dude abides...

    geezus what a lot of work.. to save a few bucks? IMO.. there's better things to do with your time. Flip the front sprocket around. shouldn't rub.

    MELK-MAN The Dude abides...

    may find that mx suspension is gonna be a little firm for offroad races. Especially longer events like harescrambles. Can be made a lil' better with oil level and backing off the adjusters (free) but see how it goes. I wouldn't wait to test this out till your in your event :)
    TLR67 likes this.
  7. 83BSA

    83BSA Well-Known Member

    Yes, but . . . .

    Most dirt bike sprockets I've dealt with have a offset. Hence, the "flip around and you'll have more clearance" idea. However, in spacing the sprocket further left (away from the cases), you now have offset the countershaft sprocket from the rear wheel sprocket. Plan to shim the rear sprocket a like amount? I didn't think so. It can be done - I've done it - and it is a PITA to machine spacers such that there is no possibility of wobble on the driven (rear wheel) sprocket. But, I've had weird builds in which I had to do so to get the wheels in line, countershaft sprocket clearance, and accommodate rear wheel hub width. Not fun or quick and a whole lotta head scratching, measuring and Martini's consumed.

    You don't want offset between the countershaft and rear wheel sprockets. And, if you align same with an offset, the chain is actually running at an angle. Not good. Perhaps not a disaster, but not good. After all, we go to great lengths to try to assure that everything is in line and running true.

    Buy quality steel countershaft sprockets. buy quality chain. Buy quality steel rear wheel sprockets (unless you are really a bad ass dirt rider and you can tell the difference in unsprung weight between steel and alloy - I cannot). Keep stuff lubed, aligned and well maintained. Ride the shit out of it and when it's worn slap out, change it all.

    Jus' my $0.02.



    MELK-MAN The Dude abides...

    offset-shmoffset.. ;)
    Do you realize how much the chain bounces around while riding ? there is zero need to 'offset' the rear sprocket if you flip the front.
    I ride almost 40 hours a month (yes, a month) on at present 4 different bikes, with hundreds of hours. there is zero problem in flipping the front sprocket to gain a couple mm of clearance.

    "lube".. does nothing but attract dirt and sand, and wear chains and sprockets faster if you ride dirt/sand. O/X ring chains are sealed. You simply need to spray something (wd40 for me) to inhibit rust. That's it. I change a chain almost every month and a half (i put 60 hrs on a chain, change before totally shot as i reuse rear sprockets for a long time, and i don't need a chain breaking while miles into the woods). Every time i remove a master link, it's still damp with lube. dirty, but it's not dry, and not dusty. proving the x/o rings seal the lube within the bushing of these chains. Running a non-o-ring chain on a dirt bike is a huge waste unless you are a pro, and changing it out every race (and i honestly don't know any pro1 or pro 2 or AA racers that don't use o/x ring chains, and i know a lot of them).
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2019
  9. TLR67

    TLR67 Well-Known Member

    Thanks man... I am 250lbs so I am hoping it will be about right but we will see.. Gonna head over to Highland Park to test it on the tracks and the trail...
    MELK-MAN likes this.
  10. cpettit

    cpettit Well-Known Member

    So i need to get some new boots. Mine are 10 years old and coming apart at the seams. The kick start lever went through it Sunday and was between my foot and the sole of the boot. I'm done being cheap lol. Need good ankle support and enduro soles for traction.

    Looking these




    Any experience with those or others that you can recommend?
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2019
  11. eggfooyoung

    eggfooyoung You no eat more!

    I've been wearing Tech 8's and like them a ton. Though I may opt for a hinged boot when these are kapüt.
  12. ducnut

    ducnut Well-Known Member

    Go to a shop with a selection and try everything on. What I thought looked good, online, ended up not fitting for shit. The sales gal had me go sit on bikes and try to manipulate levers and just get a general feel for boots. With Forma, I couldn’t begin to get the toebox under the shift lever, whereas Alpinestars went right under. I tried on 7 different models of boots.
  13. MELK-MAN

    MELK-MAN The Dude abides...

    Ideally, i'd go with a hinged boot. I'm literally riding 40 hrs a month (woods riding/national enduro) .. my suggestion is SIDI , don't need their top of the line.
    https://www.motonation.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=7439&idcategory=5 good..
    https://www.motonation.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=2848&idcategory=5 better... I have about 4 pair of these. I like the feel of the sewn on sole for woods racing/riding.
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2019
  14. 83BSA

    83BSA Well-Known Member

    Garne All Terrain GTX boots for day in, day out, do it all riding.

    I have a set of Sidi Crossfire SRS boots that I raced Baja in. Great boots, great protection, no complaints. Except, they are too stiff and heavy for day in, day out dirt/adventure riding. And, they are not as water tight as the Garne's. The replaceable sole option is very nice.

    I used to use a set of High Point MX boots straight out of the 70"s. Great boots, and I still have them, but buckles have broken, and I'm 2 decades beyond replacement parts.

    My Garnes have been to the Arctic Circle and back, from Ensenada to Cabo and back, N. Georgia to West Virginia and back. I'm a fan. I use them for trials as well . . . .


  15. t500racer

    t500racer Looking for the Bad Teacher's thread...

    I've worn quite a few boots over the years for hare scrambles and enduro. I always come back to the SG12s.
    renegade17 likes this.
  16. renegade17

    renegade17 Well-Known Member

    Sg12s are where it's at.
  17. cpettit

    cpettit Well-Known Member

    How are the soles on the SGs? Do they have good traction in the slippery stuff?
  18. pscook

    pscook Well-Known Member

    Why are your feet on the ground? But any moto boot has pretty shit traction in mud, and if you get quad boots with lugs then the lugs catch on the pegs and you can take a spill at the least convenient time.

    But Gaerne are great boots. I likely wouldn't get the Gaerne All Terrain GTX boots just because I really favor the external ankle hinge on the SG10. But, if they fit and you are comfortable, then just like a helmet, get what suits you and your situation best, but make sure that everything fits.
    MELK-MAN likes this.
  19. MELK-MAN

    MELK-MAN The Dude abides...

    nothing will work really well in the slippery stuff. Don't fool yourself..
  20. Resident Plarp

    Resident Plarp drittsekkmanufacturing.com

    We’ve sold the Gaerne boots, the SG12 I believe, to @renegade17 and he really digs ‘em. Perhaps he’ll come along and comment.

    I’ve got a set of Tech7 that I really, really dig for trail riding. There’s just enough flex in ‘em for feel, but they’ll take a walloping while protecting your feet. I took a half foot+diameter log straight to the shin wearing them. It took my foot clean off the bike, jammed it between the swingarm and pushed the toe box into spokes. I had a sore spot on my shin, but that was it. Had I been wearing work boots, I’d probably need an amputation after that hit.

    I have a set of Tech10s, too - but those I save for when I go suck at the MX track as there’s almost no feel and less flexibility. Though, they’re basically iron blocks when it comes to foot protection. Not recommended for trail riding.

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