Not really, because if something happens and a race gets ruined, I’ve got 6 other races on different bikes.
When I DNF in 2016, it was so depressing that I almost didn't run it again in '17, but I got talked into it. As it was, I didn't bother with alot of the little items like posters or shirts for the autograph session. My physical training was kind of half assed. I threw a quick fill cap on the R6 and started riding. It's almost like I didn't want to make too much effort, in case I DNF again for some reason so I wouldn't be pissed about all that time and money being wasted. It's alot of work getting ready, no matter what your actual lap time turns out to be. And so many factors are out of your control. Such as the quality of oil filter construction and your mechanic's understanding of torque values. But that's racing, right? the highs are pretty damn high, and the lows can be pretty damn low!
When spelled correctly, it's a TV series in which people use different bodies, from what I understand.
I had a GP bike (rs125) that did time in some Asian series. Anyway, some of the translated notes had 2 sets of torque values, one for "dry" and one for bolts coated with anti-seize. Anti-seize bolts were only torqued to like 60% of the value as the dry bolts . The lube will cause the bolts to stretch before ever reaching their intended torque. Now, any GP mechanic will tell you how critical those values are, particularly on the pre-counterbalancer old bikes. HRC is quite explicitly demanding when it comes to those values.
I’m not disagreeing with you. Anti-seize lowers the coefficient a good bit. Not as much as something like a good Moly 503, but it does make a difference. However, the original comment (the way I read it) made it seem as if a little motor oil or spot of grease would make a big difference on the torque. There is a big difference between some motor oil getting on a few threads, and costing the bolt with Ncver-Seez*.