so you want a bike just based on sound...not sure how I feel about this...oh well.. The R1 has also been known to win a few races around here
Thats just a great side benefit. Kind of like having a gal who chases you around the bed to get at you and can cook a 5 star meal too.
Or...if you want something that sounds even better, lighter, and handles better. Look into one of these....I love it
The sound got me interested in the R1, but will not the sole reason I purchase one. That is why I'm trying to determine if the sound is the only good thing about the bike. For me, on the street, the visceral sensation is as enjoyable as a great handling bike etc.
On second thought at least the sound got you interested and further investigating...I just remembered someone that I rode with. He bought an R1 ONLY because it had two low-beam lights :wow:
I'm waiting for the 2015 to peak my interest as my next street bike but if it falls short I am probably going to get another 12+. Out of the 6-8 bikes I've owned and 15+ bikes I've ridden it's been hands down my favorite. All smiles when I ride it.
The speculation surrounding the 15 model has my interest peaked as well, not sure I can wait that long though. After getting rid of the 1198, my sole bike is a KLR 650, and while it is a great machine, it doesn't offer much in the way of excitement.
Cycletrader.com has a ton of 2012 and newer R-1's for great prices. I got my 50th Anniv. model for dealer cost from a dealer in SC. It had sat there for 2 years (the dealer was primarily a dirt bike and ATV specialist) so they just wanted it off their floor-plan financing. Check around, you can find one seriously discounted if you do your homework. There are tons of aftermarket goodies for them as well. Though that might not be such a good thing, for your wallet. Good luck!
ALong with what others have posted, you can mod the air box like the Euro R1s... The throttle on the R1 seems twitchy and engagement requires more finessing than regular inline 4s. I just did a Graves Yamaha Clutch Mod that replace one Friction plate and makes 1st gear engagement much easier.
I think it depends on the level of racing and the rider's personal technique and skill. When you are taking into consideration things like making use of the 1000's power to steer with the back end (some riders do this a lot, some don't do it much at all) or tires potentially losing grip and spinning up more over race distance there are benefits to it.
I have a crossplane R1...a ZX-10, GSX-R1000, 1198, 999R, 1000RR and other bikes. The R1 feels a little "heavier" in the front than the GSX-R for example. I always assumed the crossplane motor was "heavier", hence the feel of extra weight up front. Once the suspension and geometry are correct the bike feels planted. Like a lighter, stronger version of the ZX-7R. The motor is unique. Sounds great, but with the ECU flashed the "A" mode is very touchy (for me). Takes time to get used to. Down low in the rpms the motor is very similar to a really, really strong twin and can be ridden a gear higher than you think. Up top the bike is slightly less powerful than the ZX-10 and of course slower than a BMW - on a track with a fairly long straightaway. I'm talking stock vs stock, so nothing Chuck Graves and some $$$$$ can't fix. I think it is the best looking and sounding Japanese bike. At my age and pace, that's always more important than 190 RWHP. My $0.02
Racing with TC can be useful at any level, IMO. Obviously it's useful for the pros. In my mind, it's even more useful at the amateur/club level. TC doesn't really make anyone faster, but it does help with consistency. These new literbikes are insane (maybe not the R1 specifically, but ZX, S1K, Panigale, etc). The power delivery is tiring, and they're hard to handle even for the fittest club racers over the course of a full race. I've ridden the S1000RR and Panigale S on the track, and their latest TC systems are wonderful. I would probably have it set so on fresh tires, early in a race it would rarely kick in, but right at the threshold when tires fall off (or my brain falls off), it starts to kick in a little more. To answer the above - goal of racing is to win (or finish the best you can at least), which means low and consistent laptimes. TC helps with the consistency part.
I've had one for about 2 years as my main street ride and I absolutely love it. With a few basic modifications it has become the easiest, most enjoyable bike to ride I've ever owned. The engine is a true gem, and is tied with the RC51 in my list of most enjoyable engines I've ever ridden. It's also fairly comfortable - I use it primarily for long backroad day rides and have done 12+ hours without too much trouble. The ECU re-flash really brings the bike to life and smooths everything out very nicely. There's a great R1 Forum community that have developed a few different maps to address the twitchy throttle, and mine's as smooth as anything FI that I've ever been on. It is a bit heavy, but changing to a cat-less y-pipe and going with a lightweight battery will drop ~20 lbs for not too much money. The biggest improvements aside from those are with some geometry modifications via (in my case) an adjustable rear linkage. The crossplanes tend to like to run tall, so I've added height in both the front and rear and it's really helped the bike's turn-in and mid-corner behavior. In the interest of maximum whoreage:
