Clutch plates dry. Built engine.... How?

Shafts are the same size. Switched them. The thrust washer bearings were changed out also for the flat push pin.

http://youtu.be/31tMYo8TKPM

 

try this, instead of running the motor pull the basket out and spin the oil pump over with a drill and see where the oil comes out. I prime all my motors and the oil always comes out of the shaft and leaks everywhere. maybe you cab trace the oil flow with out all the other crap spinning.Good luck.

Steven Isenhower # 52 2001 V-6

 

It is normal for oil to leak out the left side when you remove the long center shaft, don't worry. The way (right side ) a FZR clutch assembly goes is like this:
With the large clutch basket off (if you can) there should be a small spacer.
Then the large large washer with grooves on each side.
Large clutch basket with inner sleeve to allow the roller bearing to spin on.
Small large washer.
inner clutch hub.
Lock plate and then the 30mm nut. Don't forget to bend the locking tab.
fiber/steel/fiber/steel etc until you run out of plates to put in.
Slide hat pusher in.
Assemble pressure plate with the circular hole on the end of it lined up with the circular hole on the inner clutch hub. They are stamped into the metal at the factory for easy alignment.
If you are using barnett clutch springs,make sure to use the ones for the 400. The 600 ones are a little longer and might bind in the recesses of the inner hub.
Screw the springs in with the tiny assed screws Yamaha chose to use. I think torque is 9ft/lb.
I have found that replacing the ball, pusher shaft and the hat piece makes clutch engagement smooth. Like new because they usually are due to mines lack of use.
Set up the worm gear screw a little loose because the clutch will slip with the screw too tight as I mentioned before.
The steel plates and fibers must be DEAD FLAT or the clutch will chatter when you do starts.
If your clutch is slipping and burning the steel plates, replace them and the fibers at the same time.
This is all I have before bedtime.

 

A couple of things I thought of when I watched the video.
First- your sight glass is in the clutch cover so your oil level was too low when you did that.
Second- there is a little aluminum oil restrictor that goes in between the two case halves. This sets the correct oil pressure to the tranny. If you leave it out (hopefully not) The oil pressure destined for the tranny won't get there and leak out between the case halves. The upper case halves have the oil gallies that feed the oil to the gallies that squirt the tranny gears.
The most important part of reassembly is to NOT GET case sealant in the small gallie that runs just in front of your pusher shaft seal on the left side of the engine. This will block your pusher shaft from getting any oil. This isn't critical in the short term but will cause problems long term.

 

How would I check the oil restricter that you speak of? Splitting the cases?

 

Oil that was put in was 2.2 liters. Yes some has leaked out and I have added it back. Prior to going on track this last weekend as per the advice of Steve at Speedwerks I added .25 of a quart. Still dry plates.

See here is the problem fellas. I paid to have an engine put together and just be able to put it in the bike and leave it alone... However, before the engine was even broken in it started slipping and burning up plates. Now Steve knows FZR's inside and out like no one in the damn world. But Steve did not assemble it. Someone else at his shop did.

So I said.... Hmmmmm maybe I have no clue what the hell I am doing. So I brought it to my friends Dad's shop and asked him the problem. He's had a shop for 25 years and the man even builds his own damn fuel rails for Busa injectors and does all kinds of other crap that I can't even comprehend. Hell he created his own damn Cam degreeing software. So he knows what he is doing. He tells me that my current plates are fried and not giving me the proper stack height. So as per his orders I order a brand new EBC clutch kit including springs. And as to not screw this up, He soaked them himself, installed them himself. It didn't make it 1.5 laps before slipping its ass off. Oh and Danny I forgot to mention, this was what he did what you are talking about with the slack. I forgot about that because I was on the other side of the bike when he was doing it. But my dad was on his side and saw what he was doing. He said that's what he did when installing the plates.

I guess what I am trying to say is.... What inside the engine, could be assembled wrong. As i said before, I can set up basically the identical bike and not have an issue but if I swap everything over this one frys it. I have changed every single component with the same result.

It looks like I will be splitting the cases to find out what is wrong. Just sucks because I can put them together but I also do not know what the hell to be looking for that could be wrong.

 

It IS too damm bad about those bolts under the cyl block that make splitting the cases such a bitch on those.

 

Yes especially the one behind the oil pump. Pain in the ass for sure. I am not looking forward to it. But I don't see an alternative.

 

Update....

Lets just say that the 400 makes a mess and the 489 does not. 400 engine is pushing out about double the amount of oil.

489 engine.....


400 engine....

 

Unfortunately, yes.

 

I am at a loss to help your problem. The only oil source for the clutch pusher and the plates is on the left side of the engine, in the cases.
The restrictor I was speaking of supplies oil to the upper cases but it sprays oil on the transmission gears, not the inner clutch shafts.
Sorry for the misdiscription.