On my 1st gen SV the clutch lever takes a lot of effort to pull in and it springs back pretty quickly as well. I compared it to some other race bikes and none of them are close to being as stiff. I have replaced the clutch cable, lubricated them to no end, tried different routing, etc. but it doesn't make a whole lot of difference. I am also using the TWF clutch cable. Is there any adjustment that can be made or other parts that need to be lubricated? The little piece in front of the clutch pushrod also makes a ticking noise when the clutch lever is released but I wasn't sure if I should grease it or not. Here is a random photo which shows the piece in front of the pushrod (no idea what it's called)
I had a similar problem after changing out my front sprocket on my SV. The part that has the two 10mm bolts in the bottom middle of the picture that the spring attaches to was put on wrong in my case. I'd try taking it out, as the part spins, and make sure that piece is put on correctly. It is hard to explain but once you take the bolts out you will see what I am talking about, maybe that will fix your issue?
I pull the rotating assembly apart every spring and grease it. Be careful pulling it apart, there are ball bearings in there. Also clean the pushrod that is behind it. Is there slack in the assembly at rest? Or is everything tight (preloaded)?
Did you re-route the TWF cable? If not, that may be your issue. When I put mine in it made a world of difference, but you have to route it differently because the 90 deg bend is gone.
Another vote for taking apart the rotating assembly, clean and grease (the mechanism that has the slotted adjuster screw and locknut). They can get gummed up or lose all the grease sometimes.
If it's stiff yet still snaps back, it sounds like non-OEM clutch springs. Has it always been like this, or is this a new phenomenon? Do you know what springs are inside of the clutch? A binding cable or rotating actuator would be slow both directions, I would think, whereas the clutch springs dictate how hard the lever pull is and how quickly it returns.
This may be a "well duh" answer and you probably already know, but I have seen this on PLENTY of bikes with a super stiff clutch pull. It's the damn perch. People go bat shit crazy and tighten the hell out of that pivot bolt nut, and all that does is dig the perch into the lever itself, creating a super hard pull. Seeing how every bike out there uses a lock nut on that bolt, there is no reason to over tighten it at all. Just food for thought.
Quick answer: Rotating assembly is installed right side up; I've never greased the assembly, will try that and cleaning the push rod. Yes there is about 1/8" slack in clutch cable now; Cable has been re-routed, I run flat slides and some other aftermarket parts so I can't use the regular route; Could be clutch springs but i have no idea. Been running the same clutch pack for four seasons never took it apart since I bought it. Will heckle Zoran and see if he knows; Will double check the clutch perch, never considered that; Simon stop worrying about my nuts it's an unhealthy obsession; Couldn't agree more Mike 2017 will end the drought!
Did the CRT prototype shop that originally built the bike use a few scotch locks on the clutch cable to increase lever feedback?
Hey! It's all ball bearings nowadays. Now you prepare that Fetzer valve with some 3-in-1 oil and some gauze pads.
