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Chain Service Life

Discussion in 'Information For New Racers' started by Patent1, Sep 19, 2011.

  1. Patent1

    Patent1 Well-Known Member

    I searched but didn't find any discussion on chain life. So, how do you know when a chain is nearing the end of its useful life? Any idea how long a chain should last with a mix of street and trackday use, assuming its cleaned and lubed on a reasonably often basis?
    Thanks!
     
  2. DocGF

    DocGF Doc

    I've never had one wear out or go bad if it was properly cared for, but If you have noticed excessive stretch (had to move the rear axle all the way back in the slots) or if the links are not moving freely (despite cleaning and lubrication) or have noticeable play, it should be replaced.
     
  3. kiggy74

    kiggy74 As useful as an...

    I replace my chain every year whether it "needs it" or not.
     
  4. fossil59

    fossil59 fossil59

    The old school method I was taught was to pull the chain back away from the rear edge of the back sprocket, if you can uncover a half (or more) of a tooth/teeth, it's worn out. "Stretch" is really just the total effect of all the wear between all the individual pins & bushings, this method gives some indication of that wear on a per-link (or couple of links) basis. Sprocket wear will affect this also, so if the teeth have that asymmetrical "snaggle-tooth" look, the sprocket's worn out.
     
  5. TrackStar

    TrackStar www.trackstar1.com

    Depends on the chain brand and pitch. I've got EK's that have been on race bikes for 2 years and street bikes for longer without issue. Have seen Renthals snap in under 100 miles. Customer lost an RK after 18 months. I broke a DID on the R1 after 1 year. All 520 pitch. We only sell EK's now because we have had zero issue with them over time and varied use.
     
  6. DaveB

    DaveB Just Riding Around

    And different people will have different results to quote. A lot of it depends on how the chain is cared for (proper slack, lubrication, etc.). My experience with an EK was just the opposite, got only about 6 months on a race bike out of it when I have run DID's for 2 years before they needed replacement. I'm very meticulous about chain mantenance, checking adjustment and clean/lube after every weekend.

    It's a lot like the "which oil is best" argument, everyone has their favorite...
     
  7. 418

    418 Expert #59

    :stupid:

    "Back in the day" we got stupid mileage out of parts unlimited chains...
     
  8. Vinny337

    Vinny337 Vin is in...Beastmode!

    +1 and like Dave said you want to keep your chain well maintained.
     
  9. jimfowler

    jimfowler Well-Known Member

    how do you know? sprockets worn slam out, chain is noisy as hell, beyond adjustable range, chain just jumped through the cases. all valid points.

    too many mitigating factors, but you can get thousands and thousands out of an oem street-going chain (personally had 13K on a gsxr1000) or you can get hundreds if you really hate maintenance and like wasting money. smaller pitches + stress of racing could wear shit out faster.

    "assuming its cleaned and lubed on a reasonably often basis?"

    make sure you're adjusting it as well as cleaning and lubing. and don't clean it with brake/carb cleaner or gasoline. kerosine is best.

    - jim
     
  10. bergs

    bergs Well-Known Member

    I've had the same chain on my race bike for.....ohhh let's call it "quite a while" however I am a maintenance freak.

    This chain and these sprockets have seen their final season of service.....







    .....5 years of racing and trackdays in case you're wondering.
     
  11. Freddy

    Freddy Well-Known Member

    Just had several posts on this subject on the tech section.
     
  12. Vitamin-E

    Vitamin-E cornerin lo in the 3-1-fo

    Dr. Know-it-all from Sidewinder sez the Judge is the final word...

    http://sidewindersprockets.com/drivetools.html
     
  13. RubberChicken

    RubberChicken PimpMasterT

    Modern o-ring and x-ring chains are light years ahead of what we saw asOEM as recently as 10 years ago. If you keep your chain CLEAN, wipe it down with some WD-40 on a clean rag, make certain it is properly ALIGNED, any decent name-brand o-ring chain will last for several seasons of racing.

    Biggest causes of "chain failures" are:

    1) Improper installation of rivet links. Use the same pitch and BRAND of rivet master link as the original chain. Don't mix master link brands.

    2) Use of clip-type links. Whenever humanly possible, use rivet-type links, properly installed.

    3) Misalignment of sprockets.

    4) Worn drive cushions in the wheels. They are consumables, replace them occasionally.

    5) Excessive use of spray-on chain lubes. O-ring chains are sealed from water/dirt entry from the outside. Spray on lubes just cause a sticky mess to develop on the outside, that traps abrasive dirt and grit. Clean all that crap off and use a water-displacing solution to wipe the grit of occasionally. I prefer WD-40 (NOT sprayed on, just wiped on in a thin film) or Kal-Gard 30/30.

    I still have and use every chain I've bought in my last six years of racing. They are all in good condition, clean and no binding spots.
     
  14. Banditracer

    Banditracer Dogs - because people suck



    Not certian but I think P.U. chains are EK. I sell alot of them and have had good service life from them.
     

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