Canyon Bicycles

IF I were to have FU money, this would be the ideal option:

https://www.canyon.com/en-us/road/endurace/2019/endurace-cf-sl-disc-8-0-di2-aero

Then Reality kicks in and this is the more like the truth if I were to pull the trigger:

https://www.canyon.com/en-us/road/endurace/2019/endurace-cf-sl-disc-8-0

Then the debate is between the blue and the red.

 

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products...l-disc-pro-sl-discbrake-carbon-road-bikes.htm

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products...hampion-ti-disc-brake-titanium-road-bikes.htm

 

Ultegra Di2 is worth it. i love mine.

thats a lot of bike for $4500. its def something u could be happy with for a very long time. no upgrades needed.

my bike came with the DTS E1800 wheels on the cheaper model. they are sluggish. ive been searching for $$ to upgrade after the first 100miles.

 

Agreed. That is quite a bit of bike for the money. Also agreed that you should get an electronic group set, I got etap about two years ago and don’t know how I was able to function before I had it. I know, total first world problem.

 

OK....dumbX3 question...but What's so "cats pajamas" about the electronic groupset?

The bikes I have now are running 105 and Ultegra...one has an Ultegra crank with 105 everything else because I wanted 52/36 on my Domane 5 SL.

I think they all shift like butter, and a few grams isn't going to make much difference to me.

 

I was considering an Aeroroad before buying my Cervelo S3 but when I contacted Canyon they told me they don’t ship to Canada and have a nice day....

You get a good amount of bike for the money but after going to my LBS and pricing out a last years model bike I’m riding a bike that’s on par with the Canyon for the same price. For the price point you’re looking in you shouldn’t have a problem finding a bike with a similar build to either Canyon you linked at your LBS. They’re a decent deal but not so good that other bikes shouldn’t be considered.

The electronic groupset just shifts perfect every time with the click of a button. No cables to adjust/replace and to shift the front derailleur it’s the same pressure and movement as the rear, that’s what made me switch. The long sweep and extra effort the front change took was annoying to me. Also if you’re riding a hydro disc brake bike the di2 hoods are WAY smaller, about the same as a mech rim brake hood.

 

E-groups are like Porsche’s PDK; simply tap the button for a shift that’s way quicker, way more accurate, and mindless than you can perform yourself. They’re brilliant.

 

How do you shift when the battery goes dead? I assume that it's all battery, any manual override? How long does the battery last?

 

You don’t. The battery life on the di2 stuff lasts a LONG time. If I ride 3 times a week 40-70km I could go a month or more before needing a charge. It depends on your terrain and how much you shift but it’s not flat where I am. I just charge mine when I charge my power meter pedals and they say they’re good for roughly 50hrs.

 

I think everyone else summed it up pretty well. But you have to ride one to understand. Take one on a 20 mile ride, and you'll whip out your credit card around mile five. Especially if you use the small ring much.

Think quick shifter or other things that you underestimated until you got them. Multiply that by 10,000. Then another 10,000.

Then enjoy your eTap. I'm sure Di2 is just as good, but I'm a SRAM guy.

 

Thanks everyone for your input. I'm relatively new to bicycling in this type of context...but I'm loving it. Nothing like going out for 20-40 miles on a nice Saturday or Sunday.

Going to try to do a century in October. (LifeLine100 in Anne Arundel County, MD), just because it's a goal I'd like to say I achieved.

Got a couple bikes already, and yeah..that's kinda silly..but they all ride differently between their frame geometry mostly, and the differing gearing ratios.
I've learned a bicycle isn't just a bicycle.

Strava's kinda cool for me to look back at my rides and to automatically kind of log my riding.

Zwift is cool, too for shitty weather days. But, I prefer to be outside.

 

This mtb looks pretty sweet with decent components for the price:

https://www.canyon.com/en-us/mtb/neuron/neuron-al-7-0

I currently ride a khs 27.5” fs bike. For this canyon I’m right on the line between small and medium frames. The small is 27.5” and the medium is 29” wheels. Does anyone have an opinion on which way they’d lean between those sizes? I’d thinking small as I typically like a smaller feeling bike though I’m sure I’d get used to either.

 

One of my friends started cycling on Di2 because of some hookups. He just slams the gears around and doesn’t soft pedal. But the Di2 always made it and never dropped, even though it made some terrible noises.

He’s since had to switch to mechanical for a 1x setup and is having the relearn shifting and pedaling for shifting. That’s how good Di2 is.

+1 to everyone else about how effortless Di2 is

 

How r u right on the line btw Sm and Med? Going off of inseam or height isn’t great. You should be checking stack and reach numbers and comparing to your current bike. With that u can figure out how many spacers and what length stem u’ll need for each frame - and whether or not your fit is possible with each.

 

I guess I’ve never gone that far into fitting myself for a bike. Since I’m getting progressively more serious about it I guess now is a good time to do so. They have a fitting guide on their website that I’ll go through in detail. I’ll do some reading up on the subject too. Typically for bikes with or without engines I just ignore any quibbles and ride. It is nice when things work well though.

 

Your fit can make the difference btw being uncomfortable after 10 miles or still fresh after 50 miles. So it’s def worth it IMO.

If u have long legs and a short torso, u might need the Med w a shorter stem. If you have short legs and a long torso, u prob need the Sm with a longer stem. If you are avg, either might work.

 

I probably could go medium on the frame & size the stem/bars down and move the seat forward.
Looked like there was only 10mm difference on the top tube and 5mm difference on the crank arm length... Also its easier to resell a medium/large vs a small.

 

Yes. Fit is important. I’d at least get a $50 “regular” one when you choose your final bike. If you end up getting one from a bike shop, it is usually free

 

Moving the seat to change your reach isn’t right.

I’ve gone through 4 bikes and they’ve all been different sizes, finally on the right one. Buy the one that fits you and don’t worry about resale. You’ll only want to sell it sooner if it doesn’t fit right and you’ll end up on the bike you should’ve bought to begin with.

 

As I posted earlier, steel is real. You owe it to yourself to at least ride a nice, steel bike, such as a Waterford/Gunnar/Soma. My steel bike on 25mm rides better than my CF-laced bike on 42mm. Steel damps road chatter better than anything. On a chip-seal road, it’s like a magic carpet. Even on a brick road, it’s better than anything else I’ve ridden. Again, look for a curved, steel fork. And, I’d suggest tire capacity of at least 42mm, so you’re not limited to having to ride asphalt. There are a whole lot more gravel and dirt roads on this earth than paved roads. And, off the beaten path is far safer and more tranquil than having to ride a highway or blacktop. Gravel races and rides are tons of awesomeness, as well.

Also, try and find a stocking titanium dealer, like Lynskey frames. You owe it to yourself to ride one.

All the rage in the pro ranks and media is CF. It’s not the holy grail, as it’s promoted. Yes. It’s great for power transfer of the pro rider who are doing it for a living and purpose. But, a fast rider is fast on any frame material; a CF frame isn’t going to make anyone fast, as the media reports it. And, the media has to promote all the latest and greatest, to keep the industry selling stuff and viable. It’s mostly all BS and the industry’s dirty secret.

You have multiple bikes and your interest in E-groupsets makes me think you might be ready for a “legacy bike”; something you hang onto. Those are the reasons I’m suggesting you look at steel or Ti. I’ll never sell my steel bike, but, am looking at replacing my CF-laced gravel bike with a Soma Double Cross Disc.

Lastly, at your pricepoint, there’s no possible way I’d lay down that kind of money without riding the bike. When it shows up on your doorstep, you get what you get. Even with a generous return policy, it’s a major PITA getting the thing broke down, packaged, and ensuring you’ll get all your money back. There’s so much tangible goodness in having a relationship with a great bike shop. I tend to gravitate toward the hole-in-the-wall shops, instead of the large, concept stores like Trek and Specialized promote. I like knowing 2 or 3 bike nuts, as opposed to not knowing any of a crew of nobodies (usually kids) on a sales floor.