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Best value for a 600

Discussion in 'General' started by David.B., Sep 25, 2017.

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Best value

  1. R6

    15 vote(s)
    60.0%
  2. ZX6R

    3 vote(s)
    12.0%
  3. CBR 600RR

    7 vote(s)
    28.0%
  1. TurboBlew

    TurboBlew Registers Abusers

  2. JBarx

    JBarx Status: None.

    I have a 2005 R6 for the street and I used to do track days on it. Q3's, bone stock, and it will run up to the back half of "A" group at a track day. I love that bike and will ride it until it blows up.

    A cheap one with racey bits would be a really good way to go. And go ugly, because you'll crash it.

    As far as VALUE amongst your options listed... 600RR. No one wants one.
     
    David.B. likes this.
  3. SuddenBraking

    SuddenBraking The Iron Price

  4. TurboBlew

    TurboBlew Registers Abusers

    throttle control? :D Takes a hell of alot more skill to get a "shorty" bike moving than some tractor trailer! (assuming a hand clutch) ;)
     
  5. pscook

    pscook Well-Known Member

    Why not a GSXR600? They are pretty well represented in the pits, and spares availability should be off the charts. Or at least comparable to the R6. The GSXR platform is stable (1. unchanged from 2006 and 2. physically stable on the track), and pretty easy to set a baseline.

    I have been told to avoid the CBR600RR as no one races it as it's not a great race platform and spares are hard to find (self perpetuating circle). But, they are great bikes and are ultra reliable, very stable and comfy, and seem to do very well at an intermediate (and back of the front pack) pace.
     
    David.B. and TLR67 like this.
  6. Pigman

    Pigman Well-Known Member

    GSXR.....parts are dime a dozen
     
    TLR67 likes this.
  7. Smilodon

    Smilodon Wannabe

    I have a '99 R6 (carbs) that I bought as a track day bike. It was a freshened up recently retired supersport spec when I got it and had worked forks, Penske shock, airtech bodywork, spare parts and wheels, etc. etc. It was cheap, easy to work on and dependable.

    Something like that might be good to start with. They are common and had relatively few changes within a given generation.

    Where is it now? I did some trackdays on it, never crashed it and it is sitting in my garage now, gathering dust. I am planning on selling it, but haven't had time to dust it off, put a new battery in it, get it running and put an ad up here (where I originally bought it).

    If you are interested, PM me (it's in Florida).
     
    David.B. likes this.
  8. NemesisR6

    NemesisR6 Gristle McThornbody

    2nd gen R6. Cheap, readily available parts. Still a relatively robust aftermarket. The most forgiving and all-rounded chassis on the planet, and can get you well into upper-expert pace on a bone-stock bike without wanting to kill you.

    If you're willing to invest in some basic suspension mods and proper setup time, just icing on an already delicious cake.
     
    David.B. and Cam Morehead like this.
  9. jonathanp

    jonathanp Tech drop out

    I will agree with this.. these bikes are still capable of winning today. Look at the times from 2004 to today and you will see what I am talking about.
     
  10. ryoung57

    ryoung57 Off his meds

    It would be much easier to just make a list of bikes to avoid.

    Kawasaki - before 2009
    CBR600rr - before 2007, although a case could be made for the 03/06 600rr for a beginner. Avoid all of the F3, F4, F4i bikes.
    R6 - before 2003 (whatever year they went FI)
    Triumph - before the 675 came out
    GSXR - before 2006
    Ducati - all


    The biggest issue you'll run into with some of the older bikes (like a 13 year old R6) is parts availability. The entry price difference between a 5 year old bike and a 10 year old bike isn't enough to justify the difference in convenience.
     
  11. Potts N Pans

    Potts N Pans Well-Known Member

    Coca-Cola 600
     
  12. Steak Travis

    Steak Travis Well-Known Member

    if you must have a 600. GSXR, Zx6r or r6 in no particular order. sit on one and see how you like the riding position. Other than that just get it and ride.

    Even if you don't sit on it, you'll get used to it anyway so just get any of those 3 that's in good shape and you'll be fine. My first road bike was a 04 636. That was a cool bike. I remember hitting the green power band for the first time and went Ho lee shit. A lot faster than a dirt bike
     
    David.B. likes this.
  13. ryoung57

    ryoung57 Off his meds

    And then the transmission went out.
     
    V5 Racer and JustaNobody like this.
  14. MELK-MAN

    MELK-MAN The Dude abides...

    ahh.. but that's the beauty of the 2nd gen r6/S model. The S model has been in production for wayyy after 2004. Remaining unchanged since 2004. Lots and lots of those bikes out there..
     
    JustaNobody likes this.
  15. fastfreddie

    fastfreddie Midnight Oil Garage

    The bikes you listed were all built to be at the pointy end. Not to be dismissive, but your level of riding doesn't support that level of commitment. I think you would be best suited to a simple track prep consisting of bodywork and the removal of all street level components.
    OEM suspension is OEM suspension, everyone upgrades. The cost of the upgrade can be negated when purchasing a bike if that has already been addressed...you may have to do a revalve/respring - $500?

    Any of the bikes in the 600 class can/may/will need to be set up to suit you and your abilities.
    I would suggest starting with a good handling and forgiving package that provides quality of componentry. In my opinion, that's a CBR. I believe they are underrated because they are understressed...they don't feel racey. They also don't have the aftermarket following of the other brands. It would be a mistake to think they weren't capable, tho'. Their smoothness and forgiving handling characteristics belie the fact that those bikes can also haul the mail in the hands of a good rider.

    Bottom line, considering that you'll likely have whatever bike set up for your current ability, buy the one that fits you best...the one that feels most comfortable. The last thing you need on your mind is a nagging discomfort when you're trying to improve your skills. Various clip-ons, rearsets, etc. can facilitate some adjustment, but if the "nut" holding the seat to the handlbars doesn't quite fit, it's not the right bike on which to learn.

    Trade that extra $4-6K on a shiny racebike for an inexpensive bike and some schooling for yourself.
    $4-6K of parts only fit one bike, lessons learned transfer from bike to bike.
     
    meowculpa, David.B. and pscook like this.
  16. 2blueYam

    2blueYam Track Day Addict

    Whatever bike you get, don't go too cheap on the suspension. Make sure it is freshly serviced and properly set up for you at a minimum. Do this no matter if it is stock or a full Ohlins set up. This can save you from a crash that can cost you a lot more in the long run. If the previous owner has records showing it was done and what is in it, that is probably fine. Otherwise do it yourself or get it done by a professional.
     
    David.B. likes this.
  17. Wheel Bearing

    Wheel Bearing Professional low sider

    Here's what most of these guys are saying, directly or indirectly.

    We all have a budget to work with, some are bigger than others. You need to take a minute, sit down and find out what your no shit budget is for 2018. $5k? $10k? How much are you willing to completely piss away, because that's what you're going to do with money spent on racing. This money should encompass travel costs, race entries, tires, gas, repairs, and for you, a bike. How much riding do you want to do? How much traveling?

    People tend to have the shortest vision ever when it comes to racing bikes and budget. You might have 6-8k stashed away and you're like "Fuck yeah, I'll buy a $8k bike and I'm set". Only to go out and race a bit and end the year with an $8k+ credit card bill because you did not account for tires, fuel, repairs, race entries...

    Here's the cold hard facts: At the current time, you aren't even good enough to ride in Advanced group, which to be frank, isn't that difficult. It's an accomplishment - for sure, don't think otherwise. But from a racer's perspective? Only a very small portion of WERA/CCS Novice racers are Intermediate track day material. The rest of them routinely ride in Advanced group. The bikes you listed are capable of winning Expert races.

    You're still growing in the sport, and you're gonna fuck up whatever bike you buy. There is no sense in blowing all your load on the bike only to crash it several times before you start getting the hang of things. Even if I did have a $10k budget, I'd still recommend a $25-$3k bike. And go to YCRS. Lessons you learn for yourself are transferrable to anything you ride...
     
    David.B. and SuddenBraking like this.
  18. yuengling910

    yuengling910 Loose Cannon

    2nd gen. R6 is great. As Melka said, they continued building it as the R6S for many years so parts availability is a non-issue. I own an 07 R6S which I have put over 50k miles on and used at over a dozen track days. I still use it on the street and my wife now uses it at the track. I keep up with maintenance and have never had any issues with it. The bike makes better power down low than the 3rd gen. R6 which is a contributing factor to it feeling much easier to ride.

    I feel that if I had started on a newer bike with a ton of money into it, my riding would not have progressed as well. My 09 R6 is definitely faster but is not as forgiving or easy to ride, if that makes sense.
     
    Motofun352, MELK-MAN and David.B. like this.
  19. Steak Travis

    Steak Travis Well-Known Member

    Hah I didn't keep it long enough to get there. 2006 GSXR was the next one :)
     
  20. tittys04

    tittys04 Well-Known Member

    I will have a pretty spiffy 08 R6 for sale after the GNF.
     

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