I'm not sure how to accurately ask this question. It really boils down to this: To what setting should I set my rebound when I assemble the fork? Story: I just changed the oil in my 2002 YZF600 (not R6) forks. It is not the first time I've done so. When installing the cap bolt assembly, the manual says to install the locknut onto the Rod (rebound damping force adjuster) and set the thread length to 12mm. (see 2nd pic down on manual page). Then install the cap bolt assembly finger tight and then tighten the locknut. All fine except: If I turn my rebound adjuster all the way in, the cap bolt assembly bottoms out before it reaches the locknut. If I turn the rebound adjuster all the way out, this does not happen. If I turn the rebound adjuster all the way in it will be bottomed out on the rebound damping force adjuster (hollow tube). Any questions?
Depends on how many clicks you want. Easiest answer - turn it all the way out and use the 13mm measurement. If you have the needle bottomed and then tighten the cap, you can damage the needle.
I turned it all the way out and set the lock nut to 12 mm. If I look on the underside of the cap there is not a needle but a flat faced pin (brass) that moves in and out with the rebound adjustment. My simple measurements tells me that with the rebound all the way out and the nut set at 12mm, this pin is just barely contacting the rebound damping force adjuster (hollow tube). This means that when I turn the adjuster in, it will push on this spring loaded tube. Am I overlooking something or is this correct?
The needle is down inside the fork. The adjuster moves the tube which in turn moves the needle. Here's a better explanation, I was trying to keep it very basic. Your clicker goes from needle bottomed in the seat, to X number of clicks out. How far you thread that cap onto the damping rod will determine X. So, if you run the locknut all the way down the damping rod, the cap will push the needle down until it bottoms before it contacts the locknut. The cap will stop turning. This is 'zero' clicks out, no bleed. If you want 14 clicks of adjustment, for example, turn the clicker all the way out until it stops clicking (cap is off, in your hand). Then turn it in 14 clicks. Then thread it onto the damping rod until it lightly bottoms the needle. Back the clicker off a couple clicks (so you don't mash the needle into the seat)and run the locknut up and tighten. You will have 14 clicks to bottom. The 13mm will get you the same result. I don't know how many clicks that is.
That makes perfect sense. I did notice that when I push the tube down, it has 4mm of travel and my rebound adjuster moves 3mm going from 1 click out to 12 clicks out. Thank you for the detailed explanation.
