120/70/17 vs, 120/60/17 ...handleing differences?

What are the differences i will notice between the two handling wise? Thanks

 

The wider tire will turn in slower.

 

Everywhere I look all I see are 120/70's do they make 120/60 Pirelli's and are they better than the 70's?

 

the 60 is more twitchy on the brakes. usually.

 

This is an observation more than an answer.The 120/60-17 is usuallly mated with a 160/60-17 ie SV650,and YZF600R. The 120/70-17 is usually paired with the 180/55-17 like the GSXR600/750,F4i,or the 190/50-17 like the GSXR1000. All of which would indicate that profiles front and rear need to be compatible. Which makes sense until you notice that Ducati 748s use a 180/55-17 with a 120/60-17......Back to square One..
I'm putting a GSXR 750 front wheel on my SV650 to work with my GSXR1000 forks. So which tire works best with the stock size rear? Or should I change the rear to the GSXR750 wheel(I have one that came with the front as a set)and run 180/55-17 with a 120/70-17....or a 120/60-17????
PLEASE, someone who REALLY understands,HELP!!!

 

Hey BW143...bet you thought there was an easy answer,huh?

 

Well, I for one like the 120/60 vs. the 120/70, but that's just me. The ride is a little harsher, and turn-in is a little quicker. A lot of SV racers (I have one) use the 120/70, which can be a little more available and this maybe why they use them, or it could be that it is a little more stable when leaned over. I don't think there is a real issue with front and rear sizes. I suggest trying them both and see which one works for you.

 

Ok, just to had to all this, I know Milles came with a 120/65 front. It was supposed to give the best of both worlds.

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Keith Snyder
Ducati 748
theriderformerlyknownasbeatupducatiguy

 

Most of the replies are correct. 120/60's make for better turn in but a harsher ride due to the shorter sidewall. This can result in a push, chatter during braking or mid-corner chatter. Some bikes and setups are more affected than others. F2's will push the front when ridden hard with a 120/60.

When ridden hard, the 120/70 is the better, more compliant tire. However, many riders will hardly notice the difference until they really start using the front. 120/60’s tend to be cheaper than 120/70’s so unless you or your bike are sensitive to the use of a 120/60, it can be a good alternative especially for someone just starting out, or just having fun.

My experience with SV’s says stick to the 120/70. The biggest complaint from the faster SV riders is that the front end chatters. Once again, remember I’m talking about faster riders on faster tracks. While a visit to your local suspension guru may help this, using a 120/60 seems to only aggravate the problem.

 

Thank you,Morgan. You sound like you have some SV experience. What are your thoughts on a wider rear wheel? What is too wide? Is a 180/55-17 ok?

 

It's not that I have a lot of SV experience, I just talk to a lot of guys and have to know what's working and what isn't with the tires. Think Walt Schaffer West. That's me.

Anyway, a wider rim and therefore a wider wheel really opens up your options. A 5" rim makes all the difference for slicks because you can run all the 250 slicks without pinching them. To use a 180 you need at least a 5.5 and now you are slowing down the bikes turn in and increasing unsprung weight unnecessarily. Most of the riders around here stick to the 5”. Maybe check out one of the many SV boards or ask the guys at MBMotorsports.

 

250 slicks? 170s? Shows what I know..NOT..I thought the 160 series was the same size the 250s run.

 

Three years ago on my 98 gsxr600 I tried a 120/60 instead of the usuall 120/70.BIG mistake,the bike turned in to quick and wanted to tuck in every corner.I am sure if I raised the frt and messed with the suspension I could have improved it.I decided to stick with the 70 series,I feel it helps on the bumpier tracks and is usually the standard.Just my opinion,but I didnt think the SVs needed to turn in much better?Raise the rear as high as possible and lower the frt end.

 

use the 60 at 1 or two tracks only, 70 better all around

 

Morgan, thanks for the little tip. I was running into a major chatter problem during the races at Firebird east. I latter found out that I had a 420 lb spring on my Penske, and thought that maybe my chatter problem was a result of this, need a 650 lb spring. I will have to watch this and see if my problem goes away or is still there. I have been real happy with the turn in and over all feel of the bike, but then again I am not one of the faster guys out there.

 

Are you sure you need a 650 lb. spring?

 

The SV has a different linkage ratio than the GSXRs, so it needs a stiffer spring. Max set me up with a 650, I only weigh about 175, leathers and all. The shock should be revalved too when going from a GSXR to a SV.

The shock should be about 1” longer than stock for a better swingarm angle and handling coming out of turns. That’s at the shock, not the axle. Lot more cornering clearance too.

I like 120/70 & 160/60 on stock width rims.

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SV Nesba #57 Red, yellow & naked