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08 R6 Slipper Clutch Issues

Discussion in 'Tech' started by Redlining52, Jun 14, 2017.

  1. Redlining52

    Redlining52 Well-Known Member

    I switch over to an R6 this year and have spent the last few race weekends trying to get an engine braking setup that works for me, and clutch feel I like. Seems like the few changes I've tried the clutch is very grabby on downshifts and engages abruptly, which ultimately is upsetting the chassis on downshifts. I thought that maybe it was just me so I had another Expert lever racer with a lot more experience than me race the bike for a race this past weekend at VIR and he too noticed the same issues.

    I have already done the clutch mod, and I also run a good bit more reduction in the ECU, more then I'm guessing most people, and I've also tried different EB settings in the ECU to see if that changes anything, so trying to pin point what could be causing the issue. I've checked stack height, checked individual fibers and they all appear to be within spec. Thinking about changing the clutch cable next, just to say I did and rule out one other thing.

    I don't blip the throttle on downshifts and don't plan on starting, I also don't dump the clutch, its usually a smooth and quick release. Looking for any insight into what could be possible causing this or if anyone has any suggestions on something I should try
     
    ahastings likes this.
  2. ahastings

    ahastings Well-Known Member

    One word- yoyodyne. Lol

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
     
  3. Redlining52

    Redlining52 Well-Known Member

    I can stop by your house this weekend if you think it will be delivered by then.
     
  4. ahastings

    ahastings Well-Known Member

    Bring it over. We will get it in

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
     
  5. Redlining52

    Redlining52 Well-Known Member

    I gotta try to get the stock one sorted out before spending stupid $$$$ on a yoyodyne.
     
  6. Redlining52

    Redlining52 Well-Known Member

    Stack height was at 42.70mm when I just checked it last weekend.
     
  7. RM Racing

    RM Racing Tool user

    Describe how you have "done the clutch mod" for more info.
     
  8. Redlining52

    Redlining52 Well-Known Member

    I have 2 of the Y springs completely cut being used as just washers and the 3rd spring has not been cut at all. If you were installing the springs in the clutch you would put the 2 cut springs first then the uncut spring on the outside.

    The ECU is flashed through the flashtune software. I can upload the engine braking map in a bit when I get home
     
  9. Redlining52

    Redlining52 Well-Known Member

    Here is the FT engine braking table currently loaded in the ECU.

    KB FTecu Engine Braking.PNG
     
  10. triplestrong

    triplestrong Well-Known Member

    The first spring with tabs NOT cut goes on first. Then the cut springs (basically washers at this point) go on last. Then the hub nut.
     
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2017
  11. triplestrong

    triplestrong Well-Known Member

    After you fix the orientation of your outer "spider" springs, ride it. Then, dump that flashed ECM and put a unmolested ECM back in it and see what ya think.
     
  12. RM Racing

    RM Racing Tool user

    This is strictly rider preference, not a given config. You can put it inside, middle, or outside.
     
  13. RM Racing

    RM Racing Tool user

    The FlashTune ECU will give you enough flexibility to get the feel you want. The stock ECU will probably not. Try running your stack at 42.0-42.5. It will wear more quickly, but it is the most surefire method of removing the resistance on decel. Then, make some changes on FT decel table at around 20% and link the gear tables. Try one 20% change and see how that feels. Without an aftermarket clutch, that's your limit, and you will have to ride around it.
     
    metricdevilmoto likes this.
  14. triplestrong

    triplestrong Well-Known Member

    Ok. I was always reluctant to do this based on exactly what this dude is saying. Was afraid of trashing a trans for anyone.
     
  15. Redlining52

    Redlining52 Well-Known Member

    So with the stock clutch if I understand correctly I can really only go to 120 on the FT decel table? Also what does you mean by link the gear tables?
     
  16. RM Racing

    RM Racing Tool user

    Nope. Done it for many years. Might wear out the clutch but would not affect the gearbox.
     
    triplestrong likes this.
  17. RM Racing

    RM Racing Tool user

    Maybe I have modified my table limits. Let me look onto it.
     
  18. Redlining52

    Redlining52 Well-Known Member

    Great thanks


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  19. Redlining52

    Redlining52 Well-Known Member

    I'm headed back to my tuner tomorrow to make some changes to one of my fuel maps and also plan on re-flashing the ECU while I'm there to lower the engine braking numbers in the EB table from where they were at. Just not sure if they are still to high and if I'll continue to run into the same issues I've been having. I'm going to also move the one uncut Y spring to the inside this weekend and shorten the clutch stack a bit. This is new table I was planning on uploaded if anyone who has experience with developing these EB tables has any critics, I sure don't have any experience setting up these EB tables and what works/doesn't work so I've just been doing the trial and error thing the past 3 race weekends. Unfortunately I don't have the ability to change these numbers at the track.
    KB EB Update.JPG
     

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