Best value for a 600

Hi fellow riders,

I am in the market for a track-prepped 600 and would appreciate any advice regarding what to look for in a sorted bike and what makes it a good value. For what it's worth, I have done a couple of track days so far (intermediate), consider myself slow. My objective for the next season is to do a couple more track days, maybe a school, and start racing. I don't aspire to be super competitive, just to have fun racing.

I understand the consensus on here is to start with an SV650, but besides that, if I were to buy a 600, what kind of bike would be a good value in terms of improving skills. I mostly appreciate precision in handling and stability in corners, over, say, hp.

Below are links to three bikes, R6, ZX6R and CBR 600RR that have been offered for sale on here recently and given what upgrades and mods they have and how much they're being sold for, which one would you buy and why?

http://forums.13x.com/index.php?threads/2015-yamaha-r6-supersport-racebike.346488/
http://forums.13x.com/index.php?threads/13-zx6r-fully-set-up-clean-title.346155/
http://forums.13x.com/index.php?thr...0-shipped-anywhere-in-continental-u-s.346495/

I'm not necessarily choosing to buy one of these bikes -- for all I know they may be sold already -- but just trying to get a better sense of what I should look for in similar sorts of deals that will be coming up in the future. I don't mean to ask the n-th question of the type R6-vs.-ZX6R-vs.-CBR -- I understand at this level the rider is the biggest variable, not the bike -- more like bang for the buck/best learning tool/value of certain mods type question.

Thanks!


Edit: Note sure if this belongs in a different sub-forum

 

Hayabusa with a wheelie bar and a Ford Ecoboost 3.5l intercooled turbocharged slut magnet.

Don't be a pussy.

 

Grom.

The end.

 

R3 or ex300

 

Oh come on guys, you all started one day Did you all start with a grom or 650 or 300? I may consider 300 for that matter.

I'm not asking what to start with. More like value of this vs. that. Not that I don't appreciate humor

 

Realize that your tire budget will at least double with an inline four.

My first race bike was a 600 single that ran ok occasionally.

 

It's more economical to race electric go-karts.

 

https://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/mcy/d/2000-turbod-honda-cbr/6263063264.html

 

I think you're getting silly responses because it will all come down to taste. All the 600 supersports are great (except a Honda ). Either look for the brand of bike you're attracted to, or just look for the best deal out of any of them.

Personally I love my Daytona, and wasn't going to get any of the other 600s.

 

I see your Honduh and raise you an R1 "I've been asked for a Carfax report. Really?" https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/mcy/d/turbocharged-yamaha-r1/6297635051.html

 

If he is a slow intermediate guy a set of q3s will last all year probably. At least I didn't start feeling the butt hurt if tire cost until I was at a consistent expert pace.

 

Agreed, thanks. Which is why I meant to ask what makes the best deal out of any of them with three specific examples to begin with. I guess the point got lost. Should have phrased the post differently.

 

All the bikes you picked are full on race builds that are capable of expert podiums. Great if you are chasing a championship, but waaaaaaaaay overkill for a slow intermediate.

If I were you (and I was at one time) I'd look for something in the 3-5k range. Ride it. Crash it. Tape it together and ride it some more. Get as much seat time as you can.

There is no shortage of people who start with really nice stuff, and end up out of the sport when the credit card runs out or they can't afford to repair their first crash. Don't fall into that trap.

 

Fair, thanks

 

Ok. I want that thing.

 

Clubman legal?

 

Panigale.

I should have never listened and ran that SV

Doesn't matter anymore anyhow

 

if you are on a budget, you really need to consider a SECOND GEN r6. the 2003-04-05 or "S" model. I'm not kidding. I've said it many times. All the midrange of the 3rd gen (yes, really) motor, just a wee bit less on top. Great feel, cheap, durable motor (steel valves). you can get one for $2k if not real pretty.

 

Great, thanks [emoji106]


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Totally agree with Melka and raced one myself. Amazing bike for the money and still damn competitive with today's bikes. Hardest thing is finding one that isn't totally ragged but you should be able to get a nice one for around $3k. Spend the rest on tires and GOOD safety gear.