Exactly who I was thinking of. Thank you. It was bothering me. Nice guy. I used to beat Damian. Damnit. I just sounded old.
So it gets great mileage unloaded but once hitched it get worse mileage then a 98 chevy with a 5.7L gas.......
A 98 Chevy 5.7 gas will really get better than 15 pulling a moderate sized toy hauler? Heck my Touareg TDI drops from 30 highway to 16 or 17 towing just a 6x12 extra height enclosed. I think 15 mpg with a moderate toy hauler is dang impressive.
quod erat demonstrandum can tell after the coming weekend - curious to see if it will come closer to the numbers in the bottom of the article http://www.trucktrend.com/cool-trucks/1403-2014-ram-1500-ecodiesel-vs-2500-sibling-rivalry/
I apologize in advance for not reading the earlier pages, however a good friend of my bought the 2015 and had it less than a year. He put around 3K miles on it and it sat in multiple dealerships all year trying to get fixed. He even went as far as hiring an attorney in an effort to make Dodge help in the trade in or even a loaner vehicle till it was fixed. The truck would constantly revert to a limp mode. Finally Dodge came back to him and he upgraded to a 3500. I too thought this would be the perfect truck for me and my hauling needs, etc. however, watching him over a year struggle with it as well as deal with Dodge who was not willing to even give him a loaner or rental car solidified my reasons for not getting one.
Maybe its just me , but I find it hilarious every time a thread like this comes up and someone posts " I've had mine for 10,000 miles and its been great , awesome truck!!" . Let us know how it is with 100,000 miles , hell , at least get out of the warranty period without a repair before exclaiming what a great vehicle it has been . My diesel Sprinter has 154,000 miles , and has had ONE , exactly one repair in its life.
The low ash oils are required so the DPF doesn't get clogged up. Eliminate the DPF, and get a GDE tune with DPF delete and you'll not only save fuel (no fuel being dumped in during DPF regens) but you can then use cheaper, readily available oil. If you keep the DOF, Mobil1 ESP Formula has always been readily available at parts stores around me.
This is the issue that I've had with my Ram (copy/ paste a good post from the Cummins forum), had to buy the same batteries for the big trailer as the cheapo ones would throw the "Low Battery" code on the dash: "The RAM system will charge the trailer while driving. Nice feature, except the RAM's charging system is computer controlled to charge its 2 AGM batteries, (which are what should be in your RAM from factory). The system also sends that rate of charge to your RV battery. AGM batteries need a specific rate of charge as determined by the amp per hour rate of the battery and other factors. I can pretty much guess your travel trailer has the cheapest wet cell lead acid marine battery the RV dealer could find. They're not compatible with the RAM's charging system. Research how to charge AGM batteries and you will find pages of info to guide you, and also consider swapping your travel trailer battery for a marine AGM series. (Prices vary with battery power.) Here is a link to a pdf published on the internet byTrojan batteries to get you started. As for what you have now, a short trip with a fully charged trailer is ok, but park your RV in storage long enough to drain the battery, and run a few items while towing like a small fridge, and you will start to see strange issues like you mentioned." I'm not sure if the 1/2 ton Ram uses the same batteries or if it even has the 2 battery setup like in the bigger trucks.
Trailer is parked next to the barn, hooked up that the battery is full. Also, I disconnect the battery if it's not hooked up. Thanks for the hint.
WTF i just checked them. as you said... how cheap-assin' stupid is that? however, since i'm plastidippin' them anyway - i don't care.