Can anyone school me on Chainsaw's?

Regulations up here are different then down there. All the safety stuff is required on all saws. There are a ton of different cutter profiles on chain. That really isn't my line of expertise. I am more of a commercial L&G and Kohler guy for my company.

 

First learn about kickback and how not to cut a log before you bury the chain in your forehead, then go buy a new Stihl, take care of it and you'll likely never need to buy another one.

 

Stihl

Fwiw, I heat with wood-only 24/7 here in the NC mtns, and go thru a lot of wood yearly. I also cut and hand split most all my own wood(which by the way is hard on an old busted up rider. but when able, to me its very satisfying and good exercise). But anyway, I've used the Stihl Farm Boss 270 heavily since 07. Still cranks easy and runs strong. Also inherited a new unused Mini Boss 170 from my late brother this past Spring. Only used it a few times clearing trails while on the 4 wheeler, but so far that little sucker rocks.

Every Polan I've had sucked. Still have one out in the garage. Won't crank currently.

Min Boss just cause. Not my pic.

 

I've been in my house for about 4 years and have been sawing and splitting my own firewood for the same amount of time. I asked for a Stihl 290 for Christmas one year and ended up with a Craftsman (Poulan) 42cc/ 18" bar.

It has always done the job but not very well at all. The frustration isn't worth it so I'm buying the saw I really want.

The price on a new saw might seem like a tough pill to swallow but do yourself a favor in the long run and pony up the cash for a GOOD saw then take good care of it.

 

Dswens,
I was in the same boat a couple of months ago. I needed something to take down some trees and trim others. I'd never used a chainsaw before so I asked my father-in-law for advice since his hobby is cutting firewood. He ended getting me a stihl ms170. It has a 16" bar. At first I thought I needed a bigger one but this one has worked really well. It's light and easy to handle. I think they retail for under $200.

 

Should I be scared?

 

I have 3 Poulans. One of them will start sometimes. Get a Stihl.

 

Choice of saw for its ability to cut is secondary to keeping the chain sharp. Keep a spare chain or two on hand and either teach yourself how to file one or buy a cheap electric sharpener at Harbor Freight and learn to use it.

Don't buy the anti-kickback packaged chains but rather go to an OPE shop or Ace Hardware and have chains cut from their bulk stock.

For the record I bought an Echo CS440 from Home Depot and have used it pretty hard for seven years now. It's all about the 'taking care' part. I also have an old Homelite bow saw and use my neighbor and woodcutting partner's big Echo EVL. He also has an old Husky. We use whatever suits. The big Echo has a 22" bar. I love that thing.

To repeat: take care of the chain and it will take care of you.

 

Anti-kickback chain is what they call the chain that usually comes with a saw, has an extra bump to help prevent kickback. Also prevents you from making plunge cuts.



You can also get chains in what they call full and semi chisel, the full chisel will cut clean wood better than anything but dulls fairly quickly, the semi won't cut as fast but it stays sharp longer. The full is easier to sharpen on your own, so if you are willing to buy some files and spend a bit of time learning you may as well get full. I run a file over my chains everytime I get saws out, that way it usually only takes a few minutes to sharpen them.

How do you know your chain is dull? It will be making powder, a sharp chain throws large, well defined sawdust. The duller the chain the smaller the bits that are thrown, a really dull chain will be making "saw powder".

 

by the way....

how are those tools working out for you D-Swens??

 

My father has a Jonsered. That thing is a fire breathing chip piling monster. Fricken thing is strong and has been very reliable.

 

STIHL.....

 

Late to this thread, but look at http://vminnovations.com/search/index.html?q=chainsaw for some good deals on chainsaws.

I just picked up a poulan pro 14" gas for $58 shipped during the XMas sales. For the light duty it will receive it should be plenty good.

They have all the name brands too.

*edit - also I hear that getting the carb set right on chainsaws is very important. If you have a saw that doesnt run or start easy, try cleaning and then adjusting the carb

 

So doing some simple math, that's 9-16 uses per chainsaw, and let's say roughly $15 per use. I'd look into another brand

If there is one thing I would stress it would be the size bar. I bought an Echo 14" many year ago thinking I would only need to cut small logs and I ran into many situations where I just wish I bought a bigger one. So a few years back I bought a Husqvarna 18" and never looked back.

 

Most of you shouldn't be allowed to use a rubber butter knife with a cork on the end much less a chainsaw.

 

Only chainsaw I've ever owned, Jonsered 520SP. I've had it for 30 years and it has never failed to start or do its job. If it ever dies, I'll buy another Jonsered.

 

I still have my 1988 Stihl 025 (50cc) never been opened up. That being said when I moved here to the MTNs of NC(2001) a couple of my subs told me to get a Husqvarna. Not the ones they sell at Lowes, but their XP line. Picked up a 372XP(70cc) and never looked back. Then 4 years ago I mail ordered another 372XP and a 357XP(55cc). I keep a 24" bar on 1 of the 372's, and an 18" on the other. The 357 also has an 18" bar. The 357 does a great job on limbing and logs up to 10", anything bigger and you start yawning(to slow). 70cc's is what you need to get the job done. Heck I even use the 24"bar just so I don't have to bend over so far. I never cared for Stihl's dealer "protection policy". Won't sell you anything on line, have to get it from your local dealer, screw that full MSRP BS. I have an outdoor wood stove that heats my house thru radiant floor heat, and also heats the domestic water; I burn wood All Year Round. 90% of my wood comes off of my property. Is it a lot of work; Hell yes. Do I save money if I consider my time at a reasonable wage; No, But I will not be held hostage by the local propane or fuel oil company. My total electric bill(for 3000sf) during the winter or summer(no ac) is $140, and our co op electric comp. isn't
the cheapest around per kw

 

I'm biased toward Echo because a buddy is an Echo dealer, but I've found their products to be pretty rock solid. I have a 20" CS5000 that is probably going on 11 or 12 years old, still a great saw. I've worn out 6-7 bars and I don't know how many chains, it gets used a lot. The clutch is finally starting to wear out and also the vibration rubbers in the handle, but it still runs as new and has a ton of compression. That being said, if money is no object Stihl is probably a bit better. Like other said, run good fuel and oil. I use Yamalube R.

 

Stihl MS170. I bought one used for $100 and it is great for small stuff and trimming. Now I can buy a bigger big saw than I originally planned because I don't need one saw that does everything(I do very little at this point actually).

 

Indeed. The dude that said anything but stihl and husky were shit was...full of it.

Who here has the oldest still operating saw? My 028 I think dates to the late 70's.