'93 CBR 600 F2 Mods - Phase 1

yes, the brakes are legal. V7 is a superbike class. anything goes with brakes and forks except radial calipers.

be careful running that stock shock my friend...

you also should think about rearset relocator plates. when i ran those protek rearsets in the stock holes i drug the shit out of them. you'll need a longer shift linkage. protek has them.

 

That depends on the class... in most race series' C Superbike and C Superstock classes, it is legal. Now, clearly my bike won't be as competitive in those classes, due to it's being heavy and underpowered, compared to modern 600s.
To contest MCRA's "Classic" category,the only thing I would have to change on my bike as it is now, other than putting on race bodywork, obviously, would be to restore the stock front rotors, which is why I'm keeping them around.
If I do end up looking into WERA's vintage classes, or AHRMA classes, maybe I'll do an F3 full front end swap - you might be able to tell me if that's acceptable to the rules, or not.

I thought I mentioned this already, but I was already satisfied with the stopping power of the stock setup, with braided lines, as I too am aware of their ability to lift the rear wheel off the ground!! It is true that too many people underestimate the F2's stock brakes.
These rotors are not meant to improve stopping power, though since they do dissipate heat better, they probably will, with all other things being equal, in a situation where heavy braking is frequent - the larger diameter alone will help in this department, that, and the fact that the materials lend themselves to dissipating heat better.
Now, Ive heard from a lot of people that the F2 rotors will warp in these constant, heavy braking scenarios, but maybe you can lend your thoughts, if you have any knowledge of this.

Bottom line - going from 276mm solid rotors to 310mm floating rotors can't be a bad thing!! Anyway, I've got 'em now, so I'm gonna run 'em (when allowed to, that is!)

 

TELL ME ABOUT IT!! That's my biggest, and honestly, my only real concern about where things are now. I've got a line on a Fox Twin Clicker that is setup close enough as is, for me to use it, but I don't see any way for me to be able to score it in time for my July event - but believe you me, if I can manage it, I will get it...and breath easier!!

Ahhhhh, tell me more about this! I did speak with Pro-Tek, and this wasn't even suggested, but I'd like to know more, because 1" up and back is still not enough.

 

Rewire your oil filter so that it cannot twist off. ie.... The other side, tightening it not loosening it. If you have a tough tech guy he will send you back to turn it around.

Also for the oil filler cap. Just drill one of the clutch cover bolts and get a clip retainer. That way #1 you are not going as far, #2 you don't have to rewire it every time you take it off. Same goes for the Rad cap.

 

You might want to look at the oil filter pic again...unless I've recently lost my mind, it is definitely wired so that it cannot spin free!!

Agreed. I need to get some R-clips to use less wire, and take less time to get it secured.

 

Oh I agree with you. But I was told it had to be wired so that it is going in the "tightening" direction. That is all.

 

Okay, so, the thread is finally caught up to current events, and now I've got a few questions for those that have been flogging the F2 on track.
At this point, my tenative plan is to run Michelin Power Cups up front and med. compound Power Ones at the rear, in stock sizes. My tire questions are as follows:

1) On this subject, I have had piles of comments on Shinko slicks - many people curse these tires as absolute worthless junk, and just as many claim they are good tires, especially for the money, and that they are just fine. Now, I have to say, that you never know what the experience level really is, with people on forum sites, but a lot of those that are in favor of the Shinkos, include racers, some of which claim to have won national championships at some point. I want to know what you guys honestly know and think about the Shinko tires. Negatives that I have found, not knowing anything else about them from actual experience, is that they are only available in soft compound, which will be greasy as all get out for the heat I am going to be running in...positives, are that they are VERY cheap, and that I can get them in 160/60 rear.

2) Another tire question, where I have also previously received many opinions both praising and damning the idea, is whether it would be bad or good, to run a 180/55 rear tire on the 5" F3 rim, mounted on my F2. It makes complete sense to me, that it would be ill advised to do so, but then there's this large group of guys, that claim they have had great luck with doing this - guys that, once again, claim to have considerable track time and/or racing with this setup.
Obviously, if this isn't a horrible idea, than the tire world opens up nicely, as far as choices go, but I really want to know what you guys think on this too.

3) Lastly, quick-throttle...I would like to find a simple solution for acquiring about a 1/2 turn of the stock F2 setup - difficult is ok, but I'm betting there are some simple solutions out there, and if there is, I would imagine you guys would know. I've had a guy point me in the direction of a part from Motion Pro, that might not still be available, but I haven't looked real hard just yet, and a few guys have pointed me toward the RC51 throttle - one fellow even mentioned a particular vintage of R6 throttle that worked also.

Let her rip, gentlemen, and thanks in advance.

 

Anyone have any feedback on these questions? Just out of curiosity, though this is technically a "vintage" bike in question here, would it be wise to post these questions in the general "Tech" forum, in the event there are guys who race modern bikes now, but have possibly had experience with F2s in the past, and could lend some knowledge?
I suppose I've got nothing to lose with doing that!

Also, I have some aftermarket parts I'm looking to buy for the F2, that I need some help identifying...I'm gonna start a new thread for that, and see if anyone can aid me in that endeavor.

 

Here is better,you'll get more help specific to this bike.

Plus we're more fun than the 'other' guys that race.

 

Agreed. I just haven't gotten a lot of feedback yet... actually, regarding the wheel/tire/quick throttle questions, I've gotten none, but I do realize that not everybody is on here all the time!

 

sell him your Ohlins Kevin

The rotors are legal.Me and Yates ran those on our F2s.They are a huge help,especially somewhere like Road Atlanta.

Careful with the Canyondancer.You over tighten your front end and you'll run the risk of bending your forks/triples oh-so-slightly.

Save that bodywork. Get race bodywork.

 

Use the F3 rear wheel at the track.Save the F2 rear for the street.Thank me later.

I see you at the track on street tires or Shinkos I will cut your fucking tires.Then I'll drag you to the Bridgestone trailer by your hair and buy you a set of race tires.Don't ever make that mistake.AT the track,use race tires,they last longer than you think.

I endurance raced an F3 and my team used one set for the entire four hours,wearing nicely.I then used the same rear from the RRR race for practice at VIR,as I had never ridden VIR before.Wore that tire past the markers and it never lost grip.

Bridgestones are the only way to go.

 

KMC there has an Ohlins shock for your bike for sale.Go get that from him.

Thank me later,both of you.

 

DON'T,for the love of God and all that is holy,DON'T use EBC pads with that rotor kit setup.Vesrah works well,so does Carbon Lorraine.Stickboy sells both.

Switch to an F3 lower triple clamp.If you can't find one for sale,I have several spares.

 

Funny you mention that. Stickboy and I just had that conversation last weekend. Said he gave up using EBC pads for reasons of constant drag and I think grab/lack of smoothness (correct me if I'm wrong Stick). Going to be trying out Vesrah or CL and see what happens.

 

The only reason I'm going this way, is that there are NO race tires available in a 170/60, which is the stock, and seemingly optimum size for the 5" rim... now, one of my earlier questions, to which I've received no feedback on this forum, was for advice, based on experience with doing the same, regarding mounting a 180 rear on the F3 rim - what do you think about this option? As I already mentioned, when I first posed this question, is that previously, I got equal advice for and against the idea - some saying it will handle like crap, and others saying it will transform the handling for the better. At any rate, my only race tire options are 160s on the 4.5" F2 rim, or jumping to 180s for the 5" F3 rim - there are zero 170 race tires available.

I don't have any thoughts that race tires won't last long, I'm not sure where you got that!! Race tires ARE what I'm after!! I have NO INTENTION of running street tires, as my earlier posts make clear - I'm looking for the best possible race tire setup, and clearly, if I can and more importantly, should run 180s on the F3 rim, then the tire world opens up to me considerably.
By the way, if you promise to grab me by my hair (you'll need tweezers - my hair is less than 1/4 long!) and buy me some race tires, then I think I should mount Shinkos and meet up with you!!
Seriously, though, thanks for saying something about the Shinkos - no one here has given any feedback on those yet.

 

Good to know on the pads, and I must say, I'm quite surprised. I've never run anything but EBC or Galfer brake products...ever! When I raced 750s in '90 and '91, EBC was all the team used also.

Tell me more about this - what's the advantage of the F3 lower triple?

 

If that's KMC as in user "313Racing", I've recently sent him a PM on another forum with another question (he's one of the guys that recommended I join this forum). At any rate, if and when he gets back with me, I'll have to ask him about the Ohlins, all I knew about was the Fox Twin clicker he had for sale...maybe he's just holding out - he already teased me with the fact that he's got a Yosh full titanium set for the F2 that he WON'T SELL!!! Maybe you can brow-beat him into considering that!!
Now, on the Ohlins subject, I didn't even realize Ohlins had any shock options for the F2?!? That would surely be the cream-of-the-crop for rear setup!

 

F3 lower triple is better reinforced and gives better front end feel over the F2 lower triple.Bolts right in.

F3 rear wheel will take a 160 rear tire.180 is unsafe.Bridgestone makes a 165 rear slick that is wonderful.

Galfer pads are wonderful also.EBC pads suck.Snatch 'n' drag.

Yes,KMC has an Ohlins rear shock.Ohlins made 3 different ones for the F2s and F3s.I have each one

 

Well, If I'm using 160, I'm gonna use the F2 wheel and save the extra weight, though I have considered the Bridgestone slicks in the 165 (313Racing told me about 'em), but I haven't found any good resources yet for the Bridgestones in the compounds I need and with good prices. Also, I've had more people raving to me about the Michelin's than the 'Stones, some saying that the 'Stones will not last as long.
The current hot commodity combo of Power Cup front and Power One rears, are being sold in package deals at multiple spots for very good prices, but if you've got some good sources for Bridgestones, where I can get med/hard rears and soft to med/soft fronts (I will not use anything super-soft up front, it'll be too hot), then pass 'em on, I'd like to contact a rep. or online retailer/wholesaler and get some more info.