trying to bleed my $#@$ brakes

O.K. heres the thing. New m/c, and freshly cleaned out callipers,
the lines have probally drained.
I cant even get preasure to the pads! Been trying to bleed them for 2 hours now!!!!
No, I don't have a speed bleeder, do I need one? or am I missing something?

 

Re:

Do you have a bleed valve off the master cylinder? Did you bleed through it?

 

what are you doing? (all of your movements)

 

Get thee a Mity Vac

Approx $24 at autozone, pepboys, advance auto.

Get one...

Use one...

Buy me lunch later...

 

We don't need your last bowel movement info.

 

lol

 

OK You guys are too much, so I wont go into whatever the f%$# they put into that Chinese food I ate yesterday,

Everything is fresh and cleaned with denatured alcohol.
Everything tight, where it's supposed to be. Res is full of new fluid. Pump the brake lever, open valve, close valve. REPEAT 400,000 times!! no preasure yet. Have goten some fluid to come out of the check valve, But then it started to suck bake in under preasure! I have a clear hose on the check valve so I can see the movement of the fluid.

 

Open valve, depress lever once, DO NOT release lever until after you close the valve. Repeat many times until a solid stream of fluid comes out the bleeder. Do each line that way.

It's a real PITA if you are doing it by yourself. Get that MityVac for next time!

 

Started doing that, but then the fluid started going the other way.
So I would pump the lever 3 tmes and I started getting some bubbles.

 

buy some speedbleeders. then all you have to do is open them up, pump the lever and add fluid. did you keep adding fluid? dont let your reservoir get low or it will suck in air and put bubbles in there.

 

Then you are not closing the valve before you release the lever.
Remember that you are displacing the air in the line with fluid. When you depress the lever you force the fluid down the line while forcing the air out. If you do not close the valve before releasing the lever than you suck air back into the line.

Make sure no other bleeders are open except the one you are working with.

 

Very important point I neglected.

 

are you pumping it while the valve is closed? pull lever open valve hold lever, close valve, then pump until you feel goo pressure, then repeat. unless you have a major air leak in the system somewhere, its just a ton of air in it, keep going!

sure your valve is good?

 

Valves have always been good in the past. I am sure valves are closed when I release the lever. I'm going to buy a speed bleader tomorow to try to get these things fixed. Althouth my loving wife says " I will go faster without the brakes" I must have one hellofa
Insurance policy!!!

Thanks guys, I needed to walk away from it and vent for a while!

 

Possibility of a bad master cylinder? But, if the system was OK before you started the job...

I would buy the MityVac before the speed bleeders. I'm just not convinced that you can't suck some air back in the line around the threads, when the valve is loosened in the bleed position. Others swear by them though.

 

Something that helps me get an extra firm lever pull is either turning the bars in a manner that allows the m/c to be higher than the banjo bolt OR take it off the bar so it is.......If you have air in the system it tends to be at that banjo bolt.

 

I just installed new lines on my RSV yesterday. One trick that always works for me: after pulling the fluid through both lines with the Mity-Vac, the reservior about 1/4 full, and turning the bars to put the banjo lower than the master cylinder. I then loosen both calipers and rock them on the rotors to force any air bubbles back up and into the reservior. This also takes care of any air bubbles that my get trapped at the banjo.

 

Stop everything!!! You probably need to pump that lever around 100-200 times to get the pressure back. Try it before doing anything else to see if that works.

 

I forgot to say to pump the brake lever with all the bleeders closed. What happens is that sometimes the pistons retract when bleeding and must be pushed back against the rotors. If you ever watched the pistons when pulling in the brake lever you'll notice that there is almost no detectable movement. That's why it can take a couple of hundred pumps sometimes.