Stripped Oil Plug Hole

My pit monkey did not use the torque wrench and stripped the threads out of my 2003 GSXR 600 oil pan. I know that cars have oversize oil plugs to fix this boo boo. Do cycles?

Thanks

 

repair it with a helicoil or timesert (sp?) Or remover the oil pan and you could use an oversize plug. I would take the pan off for the repair either way. good luck

 

I agree, remome pan and use stainless heli-coil kit or buy the individual insert itself it you have a good assortment of drill bits and taps needed for the new insert. Go to NAPA, they usually sell the individual inserts

 

Just buy a new pan. or take it off and WELD a new bung in it. The helicoils in that application will eventuly back out

Aaron

 

Auto Zone carrys a threaded insert kit, made to repair damaged sparkplug threads. On the Suzuki, it should be a M14 kit. All you do is run the tap into the pan, thread in the insert, then use the flaring tool to get it to stay. The last few threads are knurled, so when you flare it, they stay in place far better than heli-coils. My dad was a machinist, and they used these things quite often. Only thing better is a "keen-sert".

 

interesting. I have had very good luck with them. I usually use some red locktight on them.

 

I have done some machine shop work and I don't like helicoils but they do work. An insert is much better and when I do an insert I try to make it on a O/D taper like a pipe thread so when you tighten it doesn't comes loose.

Removing the pan will make it so you can get the chips out 100%

Good luck.

 

:up:

 

I agree, dont go cheap, just do it right:up:

 

1 Whats a new or used pan cost?

2 Whats it made of?

3 Is it a taper plug or a flange fit (crush washed or O ring)?

The reason I ask is your going to need to take it off no matter what.

If its cheap buy another one. Welding is great and on a tapered plug you can't go wrong. On a flange fitted plug (after you weld) you'll have to machine a new flat and drill and tap new threads perpenducular to that flat. No big deal one way or another.

 

Auto Zone. Yes they do.

 

If you are going to pull the pan anyway, just replace it so you dont have to worry about it.

 

What the hell did you feed the pit monkey....don't you know that you have to keep them in a weaken state so they don't strip every bolt on the bike.

I have alway heard that 2x4's in a 4 foot length adjust those pike monkeys well so that they stop and think before cranking the living crap out of nuts and bolts.

 

There is a design flaw with this pan, if U look at it the threads dont go all the way around and up, there is a vertical break in the threads where there is a spot that is only 2 threads tall, I am dealing with one right now that just got a good used pan and the first time the plug was put in it was seeping, 3 different kind of new sealing washers later it aint no better than the one we pulled off, so now on to a new proper repair, welding and retap, plus a timesert or something, what a chitty design, thanks Suzuki, they put that notch in the aluminum threads so the last 3 ounces of oil would drain out, how stupid, plus its aluminum:tut:

 

Hmmmmmmm

You and all those thousands of other owners of that model must be PISSED, having never overtightened the bolt and now having to deal with their inferior design.

 

I,m not the average goober either, I have been a certified master mechanic for 30 years, I know a thing or two aboul overtightening bolts in aluminum, If u ever get a good look at the pan inside where the threads U will see how thin it is in one spot, the bolt just wont grip

 

I just got a spark plug repair kit that happens to be 14x1.25 and tapped for the insert and now it is very strong, looks like its gonna work great:up:

 

Sure it will, until one of you above average certified goobers over tighten it. It is an unstressed drain bolt, not a pinch bolt. Tdub

 

+1

 

+1 I had the same problem and just bought a new pan. Set my mind at ease.