Recomendations on Bikes?

New here. I'm thinking I want to get involved in vintage bike racing. What would be a good bike/class to start with? I want something old and simple. I've raced autocross and drag cars before, so, that's what I know most about, just can't swing a car that actually turns while I'm in school. Any ideas?

 

do you have two or four stroke preference? the yamaha rd400 has to be one of the most bang for your buck bikes.

 

Not really. I was thinking maybe CB 350? I do have 2 S2's (needing a rebuild) but that's probably not the hot lick, is it?

 

If you like 4-strokes, you can't go wrong with the CB350. It pretty much dominates just about any class it's eligible in.

 

Buff Harsh (footwork) has a race 350 for sale and he is a GREAT source for the H-350

 

There are a ton of classes to run the CB 350 in, aren't there?

Oh, I also know of a few RD 350's I could probably get cheap (not running) back home. Which has more classes, would be more competetive in it's class and it a better place to start?

 

273Cuda:

Each bike (CB350 or RD350) has some advantages, but would
have about the same number of classes (primary and bump up). Based on the current bikes showing up to race, the CB350 is very competitive in the V1 and V2 classes. Once you acquire the appropriate race parts, the 4-stroke is a little more complex to assemble with degreeing the cam and etc, but would require less maintance during the racing season. The 2-stroke is simpler to assemble, but usually requires a little more maintenance. Depending on your preference and skill, both would be excellent choices.

Take Care

 

The 400 is a better choice than the 350 although the 350 is competitive... There have been a couple pretty much ready to go 400's in the vintage classifieds that looked like nice bikes..

 

Why don't you buy my 97 MZ Skorpion for a push button race bike to have something reliable to race in 03. Then you can work on a nice vintage bike

 

Dominates, dam jens what bike led points all year?that would be 500 triumph. But don't think you will have something different,becase every one has one(cb350)Just thought I would give you all some sh-- first thing today.

 

C'mon... work with me Tim. I'm trying to convince people that the CB350 has a clear advantage over other bikes in it's class. Anyone who could stay with or beat the 350 on anything else clearly has to be the better rider.

 

Good Grief, now TIM is going to have to purchase a new
'larger' helmet before next year's races...

The larger helmet would cause more air drag
and give us slow CB350 Honda riders a chance...


109 days til NFMP!

 

Honest opion about what bike I should look for? Wheather built already or build it myself? I'm not that intimidated by 4-cycles (I drag raced V8's back home) worked on some two cycles also.

As for parts I have already it's mostly just two not running 72 Kawi Triple 350's. Can't get much for them though.

And are the CB 350's really not competitive or what?

And I want something old and simple. Less electronic vodoo the better. (I kinda like points)

 

The CB350 IS competitive. Just look at the results for Vintage1 and Vintage2.

You can cobble together a stock but track worthy CB350 pretty cheaply but if you want one that is competative and has all the go-fast goodies, buy one that has already been built.

Building your own hot motor from scratch will already put you well over the $1,500 mark (cam, slipper type cam chain adjuster, valves/springs/retainers, valve guides, porting, big-bore cylinder sleeves, big-bore pistons etc).

Then you'll still need to sort out the rolling chassis: graft on a decent front end, get a better than stock front drum brake, mount race tires, make or buy rear-sets, strengthen the stock frame, replace the stock CV carbs, attach a steering damper, safety wire all the important items...

... the list goes on.

 

The CB And RD's run in separate classes

The CB350 is the dominant bike in V1 and is with the exception of Tim Joyce and is Triumph the dominant bike in V2 also.

The RD has its own class (Formula RD) and runs F-500 for its bump up, it is the dominant bike in both classes. It is competitive in F-500 as a F-RD spec bike but you have to be a “RIDER” (the same holds true for the CB in V2 )

As for your issue with “electronic vodoo” you can run either bike with points, IT IS NOT RECCOMENDED. The ongoing maintenance to the points (an RD will retard do to rubbing block wear enough in a single race to reduce power) is enough to warrant the electronic unit.

The current electronic battery-less ignitions are the way to go on both bikes, trouble free and reliable, Both the CB and RD will suffer on points as they make competitive power well past the range of points. They are not that expensive (cheaper that a single holed/burned piston or burned valve) and will make your bike reliable and competitive.

Properly set up the RD can go all year (using the OEM 1A1/2V0 pistons) with the possibility of a ring change or maybe a fresh set of pistons for the GNF depending on the state of tune (a few hours of work maximum). You will have to ask the CB guys about their maintenance schedule.

The other difference is brakes, The V1-V2 spec is drum front while the RD classes are disc. It is a matter of preference.

The RD chassis is ready to go and the forks are fine,, there have been what look to be two nice race ready bikes on the WERA Vintage classifieds look down the list:

http://www.weravintage.org

and select the classifieds

 

I know they're in separate classes, which would be more suitable to a beginner? I find both bikes kind of interesting and I think I could get either one without too much trouble.

What I meant about the electronics was that I got realy sick or repairing the later Jap bikes with all that crap on them (mmm my favorite, susuki GS) I want something that basically doesn't have anything to start with, and I find the later bikes less interesting.

And I know about points. Try points on a V8 drag car.

Which bike requires less chasis modifications from stock?

Anybody know which one will be more reliable, less maintaince?

And you can only run CB 350's with drums? (that's cool, I love drums)


And thanks for all the help guys.

 

The RD (No bracing is even allowed in F-RD) you can remove brackets and tabs and add them to hold things but can't brace the frame (really does not need it)

Stan Lippert would be a good guy on this question, he runs Both bikes and is great on both. IMHO the RD is easier (if you don't factor in high level ongoing development work/porting etc.)

Yep

 

Hi,'Cuda,
I've been racing both CB350s and RD's(350 and 400s)and even have some wera championships on each bike.There's plenty of good advice on this thread,from reading your comments,I'd recommend the RD for you.As much as I love the CB350, it takes a lot of work and money(or expert parts sourcing)to make them competetive,or handle OK.Some people have stopped racing their CB350 from the frustration of not being able to get rid of the front wheel chatter.The pistons last only one season from collapsing,and if the engine is making big power,you may have the valve seats loosen from the heat,and so on.The RD needs far less to become a race bike,and qualifies itself as a simple machine that will require less cost and mainenance at the end of the season to rebuild.(IF you get the tuning right and don't burn up pistons and such)They are a blast to ride as a beginner,expert,or anything in between.Go for it!

 

So what years, models RD do I look for?

I looked up the rules and it seems pretty good. How fast do these things get going?

 

Years

For RD's

1976 through 1979 with the 79 being the daytona. not really any significant difference, the 76-78's are easier to put rear sets on, most people use 350 wire wheels on the 76-78 400's as they are allot lighter (I have a conversion spacer and wheel set I am not going to use) the front wheel is a bolt up.

Not sure about top speed, I have not calculated mine yet, need to do that I have a spread sheet with the ratios in it, I just need to measure the rear tire and input the rolling distance, gearing for Road a and top RPM. RD's are the quickest/fastest bikes on the track under 500cc's

Lyn Garland at Vintage Specialties is a Great resource (has drum brake conversion spec. rear sets for 400's) and offers ignitions and pipes etc. there are other sources.

If you find a bike that is prepped there are plenty of sources to confirm teh quality and value of the bike..

again take a look on the vintage classifieds, I think at least one of the 400's on there is still available..

P.S. if you decide on a CB, BUY THE ONE FROM BUFF (see posting below) If you decide on the RD Welcome Aboard (where are you? what tracks will you be running?)

Bob Mac....
Were #373 (N) Vintage Specialties F-RD/F-500