Random Advice

An interesting analogy, but comparable only if you are getting everything out of the older bike and it is preventing you from going faster. The reality is that the vast majority of beginning racers are not even close to getting to the limits of any bike. I believe the newer bikes actually reinforce bad habits, because the newer bikes allow you to brake hard, park it in the turn and accelerate out hard. An older bike forces you to trail brake in, carry corner speed and pick a good line.

If you read and believe the first post, you will be in a better place than if you keep buying a new bike and depend on it to make you faster. Personally, I don't think a first year racer should be on anything bigger than a 600.

Ken

 

Perfectly said.

 

I'm going into my third year in WERA, have gotten steadily faster and have never spent money on performance parts. I ride bone-stock bikes with slicks and the minimum for tech.

What I have spent money on is riding schools. $400.00 there equals at least a grand spent on hardware. Plus, you get to take your brain with you to your next race bike.

 

I made so many of the mistakes tophyr pointed out. NESBA novice running michelin slicks and buying cans of U4. Stupid.

I'll add if you know someone who can keep you in check that will go a long way. I jumped into the deep end of the pool and didn't know anyone, anywhere. Had a had a mentor of sorts who could've at least helped me with safety wire it woulda went a long, long way in my stupidity level.

 

One of the novices turned expert this year in the southeast has impressed the hell out of me this year. His bike is basically stock with a full exhaust, and he didn't have that until august or sept. He has improved by leaps and bounds.

I shoulda copied you two when I started.:up:

 

My answer to the question:" What bike should I get to start racing?"

1. SV650!!! There are a ton of them available that are all set up ready to go for less than you would spend on the parts to build a SS 600. They are easy on tires, so you can spend your money on races and track time. They will teach you how to race, not point and shoot. They are a better bike than you are rider. Stay away from ones that are Superbike. They will have a poorly set up GSXR front end and a variety of motor mods that are either poorly done or worn out. That will limit your track time and funds.

2. 250 Ninja The new generation is good to go with a few minor upgrades. The ESS class is fun and friendly. Tires last the life of the bike. You will learn that momentum lost in the turns will never be seen again until the end of the next straight. The bike is better than you are.

3. CBR600F 2/3 V7 MW is a great class full of friendly helpful people. Bikes are CHEAP. Tires last a long time. There is plenty of track time and races available. If you want to build a superbike, this is the class to do it. There is lots of knowledge out there to do it right and the parts and methods are not secret. A good novice on a good CBR can place very well in the C classes, as well. The bike is better than you.


I hope that those that race each of these bikes would start a thread and fill it full of info and advice for new riders. If a new racer started with any of these bikes and reached out for help and advice, they would never have to be alone at the race track, even on their first race weekend. Pit with your new buddies and benefit from their knowledge and skills. However, I suggest bringing lots of beer for your new best friends.

Ken

 

This new section is a great thing. Just got done reading it all. Thanks for this, really.

 

Very good information for us newbies. I learned the value of.seat time when I AutoX'd a nearly stock Honda Civic, minus wheels and tires, and finished 8th in a group of 20 plus cars. Amazing how 105hp Civic scoots around a track, LOL!!!

 

Good thread Chris!

 

The Buell XBs (air-cooled) are a fun to ride alternative. You can probably pick a street legal one up for $3000 or less. For another $900 or less you can put it on the track and be competitive in LWTSB. It can also run in C SS and HWT SS and be mid pack depending. :up:

Mine came with a race muffler and hi-flow air filter. Only mods I did were; strip the street gear, add a belly pan, number plate, rear race spring, front springs & oil and race brake pads. Kept the belt drive. It held up until Road Atlanta. After my last race in June 2009 I saw my belt had teeth missing in two places. I was still able to finish the race (2nd in my class). The missing teeth can be attributed to some serious downshifting and hard braking (front and rear) to avoid slower traffic in the corner. Other than that, all I really did was change the oil and put fresh tires on it.

 

Hi everyone, first time posting here. I came by because got40 posted about this section on another forum we are on.
This thread seemed like the proper one to ask my questions in.
I want to start racing. I plan on doing the Bargy school as soon as I can manage it and try a few race weekends this year.
I have a 1990 FZR400. It is actually an old WERA racer that I have been banging around the back roads here in Tn. and I did a couple track days on it last year. This is the list of mods that have been done:
R6 blue dot brakes and MC
Racetech internals up front
Ohlins rear
FactoryPro jetting
D&D exhaust
FactoryPro shift kit
K&N filter
520 chain conversion
It is still running stock wheels

So, what class would this qualify for, and would I have any hope on this set-up? At track days I have been able to stay with most folks in the turns but I get eaten alive in the straights by the more modern bikes.
Tips and advise welcome.

 

^^^ this is a good question!

my bike is a CBR 600RR 03
stock engine, iridium spark plugs
BMC air filter
Power Commander with Quickshifter
forks: Road & Track Ohlins valves and RaceTech springs
rear shock: Ohlins
stock wheels: with DOT`s tires
stock headers with a HRC slip on
Galfer breaklines front & rear
Galfer front rotors
RS19 front master
Scotts stearing damper

in which class my bike falls, what changes should I make, I also considering to use my RC51 instead b/c that one is more stock, just on it is:

front Galfer break lines
DOT tires
stock wheels
BMC air fliter
Power Commander with QS
Erion 2:1 exhaust
stock front master

thanks for any input fellas....

alots of good info here about starting racing and I am getting that itch that I will have to scratch

 

+1 for not upgrading horsepower.
money is better spent elsewhere.

 

Awesome thread.

 

link to the rulebook...
http://maps.wera.com/rulebook/?x=1098#ch9
i believe the fzr400 is legal in D Superbike, Formula 2, light and medium weight solos.
the '03 cbr is in superbike trim. return the front rotors and master cyl to stock and you double your potential classes by becoming superstock.

 

someone will be along shortly with the actual numbers, but new racers should know that the average amatuer racer's racing "career" lasts about 2 seasons. the two main reasons why people quit after 2 years? #1 is money, #2 is injury.

don't be one of those guys. plan for the long haul.

 

word,

 

Chris, you forgot to mention one important thing, do not attempt to build your own wheel chocks, harbor freight a better way to go.

Good feed back, running 600 senior thisnyear at OMRRA. Will ya be around for any rounds with us!

Monta Knudson

 

hey thanks for the clarification, not so many changes and I still have this parts in the garage , I may have to change my windscreen b/c it is a Hotbobies, not a dobleboble just like the stock one do I have to change it?