I just bought Cheetah bodywork. I would like to paint them myself. It doesn't have to look professional, but not like I used a paint brush. I was thinking of using an electric paint sprayer or a spray can. What prep work do I need to do. How bad will a spray can look. What kind of paint to use. I want to spend as little money as possible because I will probably end up thrown the bike down the track anyways Thanks Mike
You've come to the right place my man. You can use spraypaint and clearcoat and it will look just fine. Sand the new bodywork with 400 grit automotive sand paper and then wipe it down real good with a wet cloth to remove any dust and dirt. Once the bodywork is sanded and clean, spray it with primer and let it dry completely. Then sand the primer lightly with 400 grit paper and repeat the cleaning process. After that, shoot it with your favorite color Krylon and let that dry overnight. (When using spraypaint, be patient and apply light coats and let them dry completely before applying more.) Once it's completely dry, use Enamel clear coat to give it some shine and protect against rock chips. Let the enamel clear coat dry overnight and then it's ready to mount, sticker and number. Good luck and you should be able to do a whole bike for under $20 in a solid color. To see a sample of the above mentioned work, check out the pictures link at http://www.tfsraceteam.com
Ducman, having just finished doing my bodywork this way, I can tell you what I did. First, go to Sears or Home Depot and get yourself one of those triggers that attaches to the top of a spray can. That'll keep your finger from falling off.... Put two or three coats of paint on there, then wet sand with 1500 or 2000 grit, which can be found at Sears or any auto parts store. Then put on as many coats of clearcoat as you like (I think I put on three). Wet sand again. The beauty of this system is not so much in its looks, but in the ease of repair when the bike goes down. Just buy another can of your color choice and some more clear coat (about $5 for both cans) and spray over your fiberglass repair. Done! I just couldn't bring myself to spend $200 or $300 for something I knew I was going to lay down at some point or another.
Ahhh for once I agree with Polcin . Why even sand it? I used the high-end Black Metal Flake Krylon and then clear coated once. I do not tell a lie when I say people thought it was proffesionally painted. I think I had 25 bucks due to the expensive Krylon. I am getting ready to paint my new TZ tail section the exact same way. Why pay 300 bucks for road rash?
Dude, you put fiberglass repair on the outside of your bodywork? Ever heard of Bondo? I guess you like to sand a hell of a lot.
No, no, no. First, I didn't mean I put the bondo on the outside. I meant paint over the dinged up part after you fix it ON THE INSIDE. Geez, you people are exacting, aren't you? Second, my right forearm is probably the strongest part of my body, even without the sanding. Third, I wet sanded because it was brand new bodywork, it was December, and I needed an excuse to go out in the garage and drink beer for a few evenings. Y'know, as opposed to sitting on my couch in front of the TV and drinking beer. Change of scenery, and all that.
Yup, we are exacting. Just trying to give the newbies the best advice we can. And you got it wrong again. You DO put the bondo on the outside, but the fiberglass repair goes on the inside. If you do fiber repair and just paint over the outside it will look like crap. You gotta use the bondo to fill any holes and smooth out the outside. Geez, how many beers did you have before you worked on your bike? Let me know where you'll be pitted at Roebling. I wanna come over and point and laugh at your bondo sled. HA HA HA!
Well, I haven't actually done any repairs yet, so clearly I don't know what I'm talking about on that regard, I guess. Like I said, it's brand new bodywork. My main point was that when I do bust it up, which will happen at some point, probably this year, not having paid with your left nut for a nice shiny paint job will make the repair process easier and a lot less stressful. Pant, pant....am I out of that hole I dug yet???
Nah, not my style. Now if you say something really stupid I'd be all over that. Tom's just got the big head going on right now he'll come back down in a little while.
Well, I'm sure you'll get a chance from me at some point. I can't hide my stupidity from you guys forever...
Yup, you're out. Just calling your bluff and wanting to make you say you've never done repair. It worked. But seriously, when you do bodywork repair the glass goes on the inside and bondo on the outside. A good trick to use, if for example your bike slides and it burns a hole in the bodywork, is to duct tape a piece of wax paper over the opening on the outside of the bodywork. Then do the glass repair on the inside and let it dry. Peel back the wax paper, smooth some bondo on the outside, and sand when dry. Voila! No more damage. You are definitely on the right track about saving money when it comes to bodywork and painting. Nobody is gonna notice a run in the paint or a spot that isn't showroom smooth when you're zipping along at 100+
Instead using Bondo I use a 2-part expoxy from the auto parts store. It's better than Bondo as it will bend some before cracking. And it's usually clear or opaque.
didnt anybody ever tell ya'll that bondo is heavy and does not like to flex with the bodywork. it will just pull away
