Discussion in 'General' started by SpeedyE, Sep 30, 2021.
Thank you for the info & MC recommendations! !!!
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thank You !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have made non-production/prototypes(?) thumb-brake mounts for few local stunters back in (03?/04?) when they first started doing/using them... This is good info/ideas .... Thank you!
Why not grab a used abs module from a grom/monkey/c125. They are single circuit (1 wheel) abs systems. I bet with some creative wiring you could plumb it in and have real functional rear wheel abs.
My body/hand has instinctively changed it's position (w/out any thought from me) to modify my 'old' grip, to put me at and of bar/lever for more leverage... We on the same page !!! Thank you
I actually used to use my middle and index... currently I am only using my middle... I see/notice the difference... I am not sure why my brain/body is only using middle finger instead of my old/previous middle/index combination... but I am just putting around on the street/backroads fine tuning my wiring harness (brain/body/etc), and working on micrro-smoothiness in inputs/movements/etc... smooth is fast... so Imma go w/it for now, and I'll add the index finger back into it (I am aware I would get twice the power) if needed... Im just feeling/re-learning/experimenting/etc right now, but strangely I am aware I am only using middle right now... Thank you !!!
Thank you... imma look into understand the (MC & caliper) piston/power/etc ratio's) ... thank you for bringing this info up Thank you
Thank you for the spring info.
I am VERY/overly delicate in all my movements/poundages/etc.... Very delicate/lite-touch, so I am very lite on the foot lever. I had (hopefully still have) very good raccoon like feel/dexterity/feel in my hands/feet/body/etc... I'm not locking the brake even w/ 100% bled system, but I want to be able to use less concentration/focus on the rear brake-lever, than currently, and I figured 'dulling' the bite would allow less thought for the foot-lever allowing me to have deeper, more micro movements on the other bike controls (F brake, engine compression, clutch lever, etc).
Thank you... I think I worded my question wrong maybe. I have incredible feel in my hands/feet... I used to have 'outlier' feel, and am praying I still do, or will regain it, but even currently I have Great feel in my hands/fingers/feet/etc.
I just don't have the same strength I once had. I can and have controllable crushed the front brake lever for 10 minutes, but then my hand fatigues out. If I incorporate my rear brake, and reduce pressure on the front brake, I can last a half hour.
I hope this regains some sort of clarity to my situation/etc.... Been Working Hard since surgery, august 2020... Brutal/Nitemare... working Hard every single day/minute.
I guess the best way for me to explain it is... say I used to squat 405 for 4-8 reps clean reps. Now I'm all F'd up, trying/working HARD every single day, working smart/hard.
I'm not climbing under the bar w/ 405... I dont need to... instead I am working w/ 135 and less. Maybe I can do 225, maybe I can do 315 for a couple, but that is not going to rehab me, to re-build new muscle memory.
I'm doing lite weights, repetitions, feeling it, mind-muscle.... I will eventually be capable once again to do 405 for 4-8 reps, w/out ever even squatting over 225, if that makes sense.
I am NOT lifting weights, I am just using this as an example....
A real-world example: When I made a comeback to the the gym/bodybuilding in 2014, I tried to EZ-(barbell)curl 40 pounds on the first day, it was SUPER heavy.
I did arm/bicep curls w/ 5 pound dumbells only, for the next month... at the end of the month I could easily curl 40 pound barbell.
I did 10 pound dumbbells for the next month, never picked up a heavier weight for curl/bicep.
Month later I could curl 60-lbs like it was nothing, curl 80-pounds for reps.
You Do Not need to lift a certain weight, to become strong enuff to lift said weight. You can train w/ much liter weight, and become strong enuff to lift Heavy weights, if you understand body-mechanics/etc. I put approx 2" on my arms (hormone free) 15.5"(un-pumped)-17.5" (pumped) in 2 months using 5-10 pound dumbells and rope push-downs w/ 1-2 plates (20-30? pounds). You do not need Heavy weights to get stronger. THAT is My/The secret!
I'm approaching my moto-bike Riding/Body rebuild/rehab the same way.
I could ride/go MUCH Faster/Harder than I am currently training on the moto-bike, but I know that taking my time, concentrating on my body/movements at a micro-level will pay off way more down the road, I'm gonna surprise a whole LOT of people who have written me off, gonna surprise a whole bunch of people at how far/much I have/will achieve, after what I have been through.
The medical people deeply involved in my life, cannot believe how far I have come w/ all my Deadly/crippling issues. They cannot believe it.
I was laying in an ER room, having a massive stroke.... Gibberish coming out of my mouth, gibberish, in the middle of a stroke, laying in ER bed.... and that very time I am saying alphabets, numbers fwd/backwards... sounds like gibberish coming out of my mouth.... I am literally in the Middle of a Stroke... and I am actively Already rehabbing (my speech), Literally trying to relearn how to speak, during a Massive stroke (it would take me 4-6 months + even currently to relearn to speak correctly... I am still working) .... I'll even punctuate that!.
Imma Surprise a Bunch of people! I will back up this bold statement, if God allows me time.
Excellent idea/thoughts... Thank you !!!!!
Thank you EveryOne!!!!! !!!!!! <3 !!!!!!
Just curious - why?
Speedy. Love ya Bud. Be as patient as you can be and just don’t do anything that compromises your safety or anyone else’s. You don’t want to go through any more than you already have had to.
I’ll always love your energy and positive enthusiasm.
GodBless You, My Friend... God Bless you, Darrin! <3 <3 <3
So many here have done so much for me, so much. Always.
God Bless <3
<3 <3 <3
Just throwing it out, in lieu of a front matter to increase power...
What about plumbing one front caliper to the rear master? (My pig FJR stops surprisingly hard using 2 of 8 front pistons linked to the rear..engineered that way of course, but...) Since you are mechanical and smart enough to realize if it doesn't work, probably cheap enough try too. Couple old rubber lines linked with old school splitters somehow?
Admire the perseverance!
SBS makes a race rear pad compound called RQ.
This is an organic compound so it doesn't have a ton of initial bite but really good lever feel compared to your normal sinter compound.
It's used a lot in flat track where lever feel is key.
Maybe that can help you
yes.. drilling the rear rotor WILL lessen the bite it has. There are some shops out there that drill them. buy it ready to bolt on, or exchange yours. As some said, better off with a steel braided line. i tried some air once, but had almost no bite from what i had been used to. didn't try it but the cut rotor did make a difference. some of my wheels don't have cut rotors , and would like it if all where done.
Ok....so question. Normally rotors are drilled and or slotted to let heated vapor "escape" correct? And to cool to help prevent fade? So it's to improve braking generally. I've seen rotors drilled to almost lace. But at some point they've got to be compromised and warp. Someone want to give the rundown on how it decreases in effectiveness enough to do what speedy is attempting? I just don't see it.
Friction is dependent on surface area enough to notice in some situations. Brake rotors are kind of an extreme situation when it comes to modeling friction because of the materials, the heat, and the high relative velocity. So I wouldn't be surprised if someone could show that surface area matters for brake rotors.
Is this what you are asking about? Im not entirely sure.
solid rotors for woods racing dirt bikes, work better even though heavier, and generate less heat... as there's more friction material/surface for the pads to grab on to.. it's all i use for my woods bikes. Yes, holes/slots can generate some cooling, but talking with the EBC brake techs, it's more about reducing rotational mass, not so much for cooling (in some cases). A rear brake rotor for a dirt bike would work WAY better if it was much larger in diameter, but then the risk of hitting it on something and getting it bent goes way up too.
Going back and forth between roadracing rear wheels, one with drilled rotor, next without, it's noticeable if you use the rear brake a lot, how much less "grab" a lighter/drilled out rotor has.. roebling road, i vividly remember nearly flicking myself off the bike entering turn 5 (left hander) where i always drag the rear brake. mistake was practicing all day on my drilled rotor wheel, then going out at the end of the day on another without the drilled rotor... and repeated such situation numerous times, i like the drilled out rotors for road race bikes
I wonder how many racers never touch the rear brake.
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