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Garage compressor setup

Discussion in 'General' started by Dave_SV, Jul 27, 2016.

  1. My garage is all piped with Festo, couldn't refuse the deal on it.
     
  2. BrianC636

    BrianC636 Well-Known Member

    I used copper in my system. 40 X 64 shop, full loop around the perimeter with about 12 drops and drains on all of them. Also put valves in around them perimeter so I can isolate sections of line for repairs or expansions and not lose air in the rest of the shop.

    Copper was extremely easy to work with and would do it again in a heartbeat.
     
  3. Dave_SV

    Dave_SV Well-Known Member

    Now I'm debating between copper and maxline haha. Sharkbite fittings are rated to 200 psi, seems like it would be easier to use those with copper instead of the maxline.
     
    jschuster2 likes this.
  4. Spitz

    Spitz Well-Known Member

    Copper should be pretty cheap now, its been goin down for quite a while hasn't it?
     
  5. Here's my first water separator
     

    Attached Files:

  6. Spitz

    Spitz Well-Known Member

    [​IMG]

    Pulled this off the web.
     
    backbone likes this.
  7. Think that's the pic I got my idea from.
     
    SuddenBraking likes this.
  8. BrianC636

    BrianC636 Well-Known Member

    I made a "franzinator". I couldn't find a thread a garage journal but you can google it to get an idea.
     
  9. Motofun352

    Motofun352 Well-Known Member

    Just an idea....instead of all that extra copper pipe and wall space...Why not get a scrap section of old baseboard water heating pipe? You know, the stuff with all the Aluminum fins....it would shed heat much better.
     
  10. Spitz

    Spitz Well-Known Member


    Well, I agree because that's not mine. :D Like I said our compressor is about 40Ft away from any drop lines, actually two rooms away. The length of the first run is just what cools the air down to condense that water. Obviously that aint happenin' in a small garage so that was the quick solution. Yea, anything to cool the air down will work, as long as you can drain said water as well.
     
  11. Rebel635

    Rebel635 Well-Known Member

    You assholes. Now I have to go and redo my garage setup.

    Anyone ever tell you ignorance is bliss? Not with you smart asses around here.
     
    bleacht likes this.
  12. That's why mine is flat against the wall. It's dead space anyway for me as its behind my compressor (that's in an enclosure I built) but still close enough to reach by hand. It's crazy the amount of water that comes out of there. My other traditional water seperators are always dry.
     
  13. bleacht

    bleacht Well-Known Member

    Don't go looking up pictures of Eddie's garage on garage journal, you'll want to redo your entire garage.
     
  14. wmhjr

    wmhjr Well-Known Member

    Don't forget about the effect of volume and ID of your lines. I would never again do anything less than 3/4" pipe to get to my end drops. I ran some tests with no changed variable whatsoever other than switching from 1/2" to 3/4" to get to my hose reel (1/2" reel). This is on a system with a two stage compressor capable of 34cfm at 125psi. Using a very good IR impact gun, the difference in torque capability (power) simply by going to 3/4" over 1/2" was night and day. Put simply, tested with very large (heavy equipment) bolts and the ones installed with the line fed by 3/4" could not be removed using the same gun from the 1/2" port. But the gun back on the 3/4" port yanked them off without even trying. Many separators and/or filters have 1/2" inlet and outlet ports, but you're only restricted for a very very short distance. If you have any runs over 10' and want max utility, do yourself a favor and go for larger diameter pipe. That is why the HDPE clad aluminum Maxline works so well for relatively small shops (mainly meaning non-industrial). BTW, it's also a reason to spend a little more and get 1/2" line hose reels instead of 3/8". If you're spending one time, the small incremental extra cost can pay big dividends later.
     
    joec likes this.
  15. Mongo

    Mongo Administrator

    Wow, Steve Earle lyrics quote - impressive :D
     
  16. joec

    joec brace yourself

    If not mentioned, pipe to a disconnect on the exterior. I looove having air outside. Bicycles, neighbors, people always need air for something....I have a 3 foot section of hose with disconnects, and a 25 foot too.

    And don't buy pvc hose..
     
  17. Dave_SV

    Dave_SV Well-Known Member

    I'm piping in the compressor now, the ball valve outlet off the compressor is 3/4" so I'm going to run a combination of 3/4" copper and 3/4" maxline. I will have four drops: two above the work bench, one for connecting the lifts, tire machine, etc. and one at the garage door so I can get air outside.

    Also going to install a 50' hose reel so I won't need hoses running everywhere.

    Here are some photos of the air cooler, it was easier than I thought it would be since I have never sweated pipe before but it was almost the same as soldering wire so I wasn't completely lost. Tested it today and it held pressure with no leaks.

    The filter and regulator are also 3/4", trying to minimize any choke points.

    Next up is running the maxline and then setting up all the equipment.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    beac83, daveknievel and BrianC636 like this.
  18. Rebel635

    Rebel635 Well-Known Member

    Damn that looks awesome.
     
  19. hrc_nick_11

    hrc_nick_11 Well-Known Member

  20. Dave_SV

    Dave_SV Well-Known Member

    I made the mistake of signing up on the Garage Journal forums, now I feel like if my garage doesn't have an 18' ceiling with two double beam lifts it's below my standards...

    Thanks!

    The compressor I bought has a 1/4" ball valve on the bottom to so it is pretty easy to drain the tank. Since this is only for home use and not a full blown shop I figure I can drain the tank at the end of each day I use it. If for whatever reason it becomes a pain an auto drain will be my next purchase.
     

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