so there have been a time or two where I wanted to torque down some bolts to factory specs and the specs are low inch lbs, ie...17 (Valve cover on my car), or 9 (some bolt on my bike). but every torque wrench I have seen start off at 20, either ft-lbs or inch lbs. How do you figure out the correct spec?
go here.... http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item..._ID=640948&group_ID=675226&store=&dir=catalog 10-50 inlb
Multiply or divide by 12. If you're looking for a torque wrench let me know. I'll look up the one that you need and get you a price. Snap-on.
I just picked up a few CDI Torque wrenches - Snap-On's industrial line. Cheaper then snap-on but have not used it yet so unsure of quality (they got to be pretty decent though)
Ok let me change my question....is there one available fo those if us that don't use tools every day....260 for a tool that is used once a year is way out of my range for my pocket book.
Mine is an older model of this. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00931423000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1
Depends on what you're doing. If it's rear ends or on anything that spins at a certain torque you need a dial. Click types will not give you a true torque reading. On anything else a good click type will do. You can get by with cheap ratchets but something that requires precision torque I would get something of quality. Plus, with Snap-on it's $65 to get it calibrated any time.
For lower torques a bar is better. We do some lower torque installations at work with a click type, and it is very easy to not feel the click and go right past it, particularly with softer gaskets.
What bolt uses 9 in/lbs, which is less than .75 ft/lb or 17 in/lbs which is 1.4 ft/lbs? Some plastic screw??
Hell, you could break a bolt that needs 9 inch/pounds with a short wrench and just your hand. That is crazy low.