or I could run it up to Kent at GMD....weird that the old bolt that has been in and out at least a half of dozen times never had any issues....
I would forget about the helicoil, they are a pain in the ass in an open hole; tending to screw themselves out the backside when your trying to install the bolt. What you want to use is a timesert. www.timesert.com. It's a thinwall solid threaded bushing that is countersunk into the hole, never unthreading itself. I used one on my CBR1000RR in the same situation. The bushings are steel and very tough.
This happens all the time to sportbikes. The problem is, most aftermarket frame slider bolts are too short and do not utilize all of the thread, so when the bike is crashed there is a lot of load on only a small amount of threads which ends up pulling or damaging the threads. Even without a crash, if you aren't gentle with aluminum threads, they will be destroyed quite easily (has the strength of play-doh). I recommend time-sert to repair the damaged threads, just used some for my frame (gas tank bolts) and they seem to be much better than heli-coils. More than likely, you are going to have to drop the motor to install the new threads (the frame mount will be in the way, unless you don't mind drilling your frame).
The motor mount bolt is 10x1.25 Is the picture you attached the bolt that came in the slider kit? Also wondering, is that from the left side of the bike or the right? Unfortunately, it is not uncommon for some motor sag to occur when you remove one of the motor mount bolts on a GSXR, particularly the left side. You may be able to get away with putting a jack under the motor and lowering the bike onto the jack to push the motor back up into place. This doesn't help with the thread issue though. You're most likely going to have to drop the motor to re-thread
yes the picture is the bolt that came with the woodcraft sliders and It is the right side of my GSXR I ahve not even tried to mess with the left side yet. I have taken the old slider bolt (Shogun sliders) off about 8 times and it never had a problem.... I am hoping I can re tap this hole and get the bolt in....once it is in and tight...it should not be needed to come out again unless something really bad happens...(knocking on wood)
I have nver dropped an engine in a bike so if it was loosening 4 bolts and then letting it drop...but to tear it all down that seems like a learning expereince that will take lots of time.... but if all esle fails I will do what I have to do to fix it correctly...
Once you get some wires out of the way, the exhaust off, and maybe a few more things...it pretty much just is 4 or so bolts and letting it drop. Good learning experience, but also quite easy. You don't even need to completely drop it out of the bike, just low enough to be able to get the tap through.
So I could leave the rear mounting bolt o just loosen it and let the front of the engine rotate downward about an inch.....I seriously do not want to get in to that....
If it doesn't work out you can come down to my shop. But maybe Lee can help you. I know he is closer. You know I can fix it.
dont do that unless you have a floor jack and some two by fours handy. it rotates down and forward easy enough (read: requires elbow grease) but it took almost giving myself a hernia to get it back in. i have dropped and re-installed two gsxr engines so im getting the hang of it now... one thing to think about, anytime you have both front engine mounts out the engine can shift a little, causing your bolt to mis thread when you put it and the slider back on. i never pull both fronts out at the same time, leaving one in always.
I doubt there would be room for that without removing more parts from the top of the engine that you really don't need to if you just drop it straight down.
Don't ya just love it when some one comes on asking for advise and all you get is argument and/or resistance??? Tdub
That one where the guy wanted a special fuel map to make him get to T1 faster was far better than this.