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Educate me on painting track fairings

Discussion in 'General' started by guy2600, Apr 27, 2021.

  1. guy2600

    guy2600 Active Member

    I have a full set of fairings from Airtech Streamling that I need to paint for my GSXR. I'm looking to end up with a decent paint job - not pro level obviously, something without runs or substantial orange peel etc. A few general questions (kinda new territory for me so we're starting basic here):

    1) What do you prep the body with? 600 grit? Some panels are pretty spider cracked out of the gate. Do you use a soft block for the grit? Any recommendations?

    2) What do you "clean" the panels with post sanding? Alcohol? Other?

    4) Can vs spray gun? I would prefer a can for simplicity if you can get decent results. For reference, I'll be painting in a 20x20 garage with basic ventilation (windows/fan). If you can get decent results with a can, what brands should I consider?

    5) What primer should I use? Should I sand after priming? If so, what grit?

    6) Do you sand post painting or just go to clear?

    7) I've heard Lacquer is a decent option for clear since it dries quicker. If so, any recommendations (brands, type etc)? Can you Lacquer over decals or is that a bad idea?

    If there are other considerations feel free to chime in. Thanks!
    kirk erlinger likes this.
  2. noles19

    noles19 Well-Known Member

    Are the fairings primed now?
    Sand the primer with 400 or 600.
    You can spray rattle can and then use rattle can clear that is 2k brand it has a catalyst in it so it gets as hard as auto clear and is gas resistant unlike normal spray paint.
    You have to use a respirator with anything that has a catalyst even primer because it will harden in your lungs also wear eye protection, it gets really bad without a downdraft spray room.
    Don't clear over decals it'll run and it's a pain
  3. Spang308

    Spang308 Well-Known Member

    All good advice above. You can final sand with grit as low as 320 without sand marks. I would steer clear of rattle can if possible. It makes sanding and repair a bitch. Rattle can paint never cures to a hardness like true auto paint does and it's a total bitch to sand for repairs that will inevitably happen on race bodywork. A lot of guys just leave bodywork in primer also. Don't clear over the graphics for multiple reasons.
  4. stangmx13

    stangmx13 Well-Known Member

    Bondo any gelcoat imperfections
    Sand everything to 400
    Apply 2 coats of primer/sealer, allow to flash
    Apply basecoat (color) until you can't see the primer, probably 2-3 coats, allow to flash
    Apply clear, as many coats as you want

    This can be accomplished with cans if you buy good cans. SEM and U-POL are my go-to cans for quality primer and color. Use Spraymax 2K clear as its solvent resistant and as hard as 'real' auto paint.

    If you buy cheap paint, there's a good chance the different layers of paint will lift unless you wait 2-3 days for it to fully cure. You'll have to sand any cured paint to get the next layer to stick well. And Krylon-type paints are not basecoats, ie they aren't meant to have clear on top of them.
    TX Joose likes this.
  5. 05Yamabomber

    05Yamabomber Dammit Haga

    Airtech needs to be primed then sanded. Depending on the brand some come primed. Airtech does not. Buy $40 gravity paint gun on Amazon or Ebay. Tune the air/paint mixture/pressure with water before dumping you paint in. Make sure you have an inline decascent air dryer before gun. Two stage looks better and you can sand imperfections before you clear. Think if it as the learning phase before clear. Base coat is super easy to spray compared to the clear. The clear is the one that runs easier and shold be done in two coats to prevent runs. You will make mistakes. Every set of plastics gets better and better. Once you have stickers on it nobody will notice the imperfections besides you.

    White primer (white base pops color more then gray, rattle can)
    Sand 400
    spray with hose and rag, no need for soap
    There is a tack wipe you can buy at paint shop that is sticky that collects last little bits of debris
    spray the base coat. 2 coats, sand imperfections as needed (wet sand 400)
    spray clear (2 light coats)
    I set it in sunlight afterwards on sawhorse to heat the paint and it helps it flatten
    breakneckPace likes this.
  6. stangmx13

    stangmx13 Well-Known Member

    Don't sand in your garage or paint area. The dust will make it onto your paint job, no matter how well you clean up. Leaf-blow your garage out the day before you paint.

    I clean & degrease with isopropyl alcohol and paper towels. I don't know if it works better or worse than degreaser you buy at a paint shop. But its definitely cheaper.

    Don't use water to clean if there is bare bondo. It soaks it up and will prevent the primer from sticking. Even primer will absorb some water, so don't paint right away if you use it.
    noles19 likes this.
  7. Sabre699

    Sabre699 Wait...hold my beer.

    Who does Broome use for paint jobs ??
  8. WillMill

    WillMill CRA MN #633

    Ive been a professional painter for almost 20 years, and have painted dozens of bikes. I could tell you a whole bunch of things. However, the most important things are practice, and cleanliness. Practice on something else first. And maybe just try to paint a small piece of your bodywork first, like the fender. Then you know how its going to turn out before you've ruined your entire bodywork set.
  9. Raceless man

    Raceless man Well-Known Member

    Question covered very well....i would add take your time , prep is the job. Do test panels before actually spraying anything and enjoy the satisfaction of doing it yourself. Good luck.
  10. ChemGuy

    ChemGuy Harden The F%@# Up!

    1 last thing. Make sure to lightly scuff the upper and tail on the road before installation. Fresh unscuffed paint is a powerful asphalt magnet and the only way to lessen its effect is a little pre-scuffing. It’s science.
    mpusch, evakat, 05Yamabomber and 4 others like this.
  11. Evad101

    Evad101 Well-Known Member

    And remember, only huff enough fumes to make the pink elephants dance, anymore than that and the Trolls start to get mean! o_O
  12. r6fast

    r6fast Well-Known Member

    not much else to add, but get yourself a tack cloth. They are cheap and worth there weight in gold. wipe the bodywork down before you spray anything onto it.
  13. noles19

    noles19 Well-Known Member

    Spray paint fumes have fun times, auto paint fumes not so fun
  14. lopitt85

    lopitt85 Well-Known Member

    I painted this at home. Picked the colors I wanted in standard rattle can, then cleared over it with that spraymax 2k clear coat that is a fully catalyzed rattle can clear. It's gas and oil resistant too so it doesn't crinkle like standard rattles paint if you spill fuel_brake fluid in it. Its deep gloss/durable and equivalent to standard automotive clearcoat. Tank and wheels are untouched factory paint/powdercoat.

    Pick whatever colors you like and have at it!

    I followed similar steps as many on here mentioned. I scuffed the fairings and hit them with standard rustoleum rattle can primer. Then rattle can white to make my colors pop. Then color, then clear. I painted it outside. Still turned out great and it gets lots of compliments when I'm at the track. If you zoom in you can see the level of gloss, and I wasn't even trying. If you'd like some bigger pics shoot me ph# and I'll text you some.

    The tack cloth is a must have. I used lacquer thinner to wipe down everything before the primer. Then used mineral spirits between coats. Remember to prevent runs do a light 1st coat, and you can go heavier on the next coat. Trying to go heavy on the first coat of any stage (primer, color, or clear) will just result in runs.

    Edit: I also just painted my streetbike's frame black. For this one I used eastwood spraycans of their catalyzed epoxy primer in black, and their catalyzed gloss chassis black. It came out great and is another option of you want black fairings. It too is fully catalyzed and therefore gas and oil resistant and had a nice deep gloss to go with it durability.

    Screenshot_20201021-195748_Gallery.jpg Screenshot_20210416-231013_Chrome.jpg
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2021
  15. Does anyone have any tips for a matte finish? Is it worth getting the 2k clear in a matte finish vs just using a cheap rustoleum matte clear? Or even using a clear at all?
  16. Banditracer

    Banditracer Dogs - because people suck

    That is a sharp looking bike. :clap:

    And it's the right brand too. :D
    lopitt85 likes this.
  17. laz749

    laz749 Active Member

    Auto Body Toolmart has good products and reasonable priced if you are doing it your self.
  18. noles19

    noles19 Well-Known Member

    Definitely 2k
  19. evakat

    evakat Well-Known Member

    My track bodywork consist of all Wal-Mart spray cans that are easily available.
    That way I won't cry when I throw her down the track and bugger the crap out of my paint job
  20. guy2600

    guy2600 Active Member

    In the end I decided to go the spray gun route. The thought being I'll be able to work with a good local auto paint supply store to pick and use the right materials. There was some learning curve to picking the right gun for my compressor but I'm going to go with a Sprayit LVLP gravity gun. I'll start with my front fender first and go from there.

    Thanks everyone for the tips!
    05Yamabomber likes this.

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