I run the GPR which is a sub mount. This is my 3rd one and I’ve had great luck with them. Raises the bar like half an inch?
Have you cleaned, re-greased and properly torqued your steering bearings lately? Check the bearing races for notches or detents also.
Hare scramble done. Pretty sure I was dead last, so didn’t even bother wasting time checking results I love this 125x, but it is definitely a learning curve ahead of me. But I knew what I signed up for when I decided to get it. This is a damn sweet bike, and far better than myself, so lots of room for growth. Doubt I’ll do anymore scrambles this year, and just going to go on open ride days at the local mx tracks and trails, and get to know the bike better. Crashed like a mofo more times than I can remember today
I wasn't a fan of my Billetron and went back to the PWK. Much better lower end grunt than what the Billetron had.
Yup, sure have - did my 350 5 or 10 hours ago. Actually did my 150 yesterday, and my first time using the motion pro race removal tool - it was great.
I’ve decided I do want to lower the Yz. I know just throwing the dog bone lowering link type isn’t most ideal for geometry etc. Came across some stuff from Zeta, for the forks and shock. Seems like a somewhat “drop in” type of modification…….as in I can go back in the future if I want. Looking for recommendations on either products for lowering properly, east coast/mid-atlantic dirtbike suspension shops etc. I honestly tossed and turned through the night at how terrible I did yesterday ……and now being snowed in, I’ve got time to dwell on it
Ok, improved method for cromag me……unhook the 2 electrical connections coming from the carb, crack the engine and airbox boot screws loose and the carb will rotate, giving access to the pilot and main through the bowl drain. While at that same angle the needle is accessible from other side of the bike. Only issue I need to clear up is rerouting the throttle cable. It has the play to rotate, but it stays somewhat bound up under the tank, giving it the ol’fool throttle effect. I think I can run it under the frame spine better instead of on the side where Yamaha has it, so it’s out of the way when I put the tank back on or turn carb for rejets, etc.
This, right here. It's much easier when repeatedly pulling the carb and the drain hoses attached to it.
I would do plenty of research on the various lowering options. I mean information from people who know what they are doing.
Correct, I want this done the right way, or one of the proven non-ghetto ways. I forgot about the local-ish MX shop that seems pretty popular with the local MX/Budds Creek racers. I had them do my bore/hone on the RT cylinder a couple years ago……..DOH! Slipped my mind. I’ve got them as a local or another place I’ll have to see if this is in their wheelhouse, but ship to/from. I made it a point yesterday to really reexamine seat heights on all the big bikes……125-450. The Pro/A/B’s……. They are very much lowered, but everyone was too busy to stop and talk about their setup etc. which I totally understand. Yes, I want this one done right
What is your weight? That’s the starting point. Odds are you’ve got the stock spring preloaded to support an extra 20-40lbs jacking up the seat height. Start with proper springs, possible one stiffer than they say you need out back and a little more sag. If it calls for a 4.8 try a 5.0 with 110mm of sag and balance the chassis from there. That will make a considerable change in the seat height. All of the lowering kits are just spacers that move the seal head and limit shock length. You’ll have to have the suffer spring to make them work properly either way. PS, if you’ll set PTH clearance to .028” or so you won’t wear the bike out chasing jetting constantly. Will make it much more forgiving…
Anyone heard of this electric dirtbike? It popped up on my news feed today. https://newatlas.com/motorcycles/amp-moto-rr/
An electric bike with a 4-speed gearbox… might be interesting.. might be a learning curve figuring out when to shift.
I was typing 'We have all dreamed of Barbara Edens from I Dream of Jeannie,' when I realized how young most of you are. We learned long ago about how stuff you see isn't always what it it appears to be.
I have a 250x that lugs up stuff just off idle, in the first 3 gears (14/53T = oem/+2T). My buddy has a (re-geared 13/54T = oem/+6T) 2001 yz125 (not X) ..... You gotta keep the throttle pinned, and your clutch-lever becomes your (on/off) throttle. You prolly already know all this. I ride my buddies 125 all the time, far superior in the woods/etc.... The only thing the heavy 250x has over the 125 is ability to lug uphills effortlessly, imho. I can be lugging up stuff in 3rd, and he is in 1st clutching & bouncing off the limiter. Both bikes are equally as good, each one better in certain areas. If I had to do it again, i prolly would have bought a 125x. If your clutch lever is overly hard to pull (the 250 lever is hard/hated.... not sure about the 125) get an EZ-lever.... Huge(!) dif) Here is the one I installed on our 250x & 125 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09P4WCF41/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 I am 5'7, too short for the 250 (and 125) . I did a Zeta front/rear lowering kit, and also lowered the seat by grafting a Husky 501fe seat-foam onto the YZ seat-pan + 25$ amazon universal seat cover. * I have an aluminum skid plate, but I screwed UHMW sheet to the bottom of it, so it acts as a glide (& linkage) plate (especially needed w/ the lowered bike). Im also running .39 fork springs in both the 250 (& the 125), and a relaxed rear sag (to balance w/ the soft front)..... so that lets it sit/compress a bit lower when weighted. Swallows up the med & larger rocks like a marshmallow. I also have a ZETA adj link so i can mess w/ geometry I can easily flat foot in boots now. I used to tip over in the woods and climbs all the time, maybe 5-10x per trail-ride/harescramble.... I haven't tipped over once since i lowered the bike. GL After reducing seat height, but before lowering bike. After lowering suspension (and seat height). Lowered seat & lowered suspension combined. I can corner low, but I suck at dirt
Its incredible how much that 17 pound difference makes the 250 feel heavy. In things that make the 250 better, because of the low RPM luggability, I find that I go through way more fuel on the 125 vs the 250.
So true, so true(!) I love Everything better w/ the 125, except the low end. I always bitch that I shuld have bought the 125 cause it handles so much better/lighter/etc, but if I had bought the 125, I would be bitching that I dont have the 250's lugability. I need both, but not enuff $, haha