Same here. It works great. Don't know if it's right or wrong but I set my chain slack so that just rearward of the rear sets I can push the chain up to touch the swing arm. Never had any problems on street or track.
FWIW, if you want to set chain slack perfect, for any bike, pull the spring off the shock so you can easily set the swingarm pivot and rear axle in line with each other. At this point, the chain needs the most length and only needs a fraction of an inch of play. Set the chain at this point. Put the bike back together and re-measure with the bike on a stand or on it's wheels and see what you have. Adjust to this measurement moving forward.
On a bike with stock suspension geometry I think you can always go with the manufactured recommendation. On a bike that has been modified, you need to figure out where the swingarm angle is when the chain is at it's tightest point. At that spot you add a little slack. This way the chain will never get too tight through the stroke. If this spot makes the slack very large at some other points, there is something wrong. You find that tightest spot by slowly compressing the suspension and watching the chain. You are usually looking for the point where the swingarm takes the axle shaft furthest from the engine sprocket. You find this point with a heavy friend sitting on the bike and holding it steady as he compresses or extends the suspension. This can also be done with ratchet straps. This is a process many of us would be familiar with if we rode bikes with long travel like a motocross bike. I have seen manufacturers chain slack specs even specify that the slack setting is done at a certain point in rear compression.
or ive found the heaviest guy around or get 2 to push down/get on the bike to squat it, and take a look.
