Bike is an 07 600rr. The scratches are just deep enough to catch a finger nail on and for some reason go up about 1/3 of the damper rod past the hydraulic lock. The damper rod is gouged pretty bad and has moved up the damper rod about 1/8" past the point it is supposed to be fixed to. There were some pretty heavy duty fork springs in there so im guessing someone may have bottoming these out pretty bad. Stock valving and the locktite hasnt been broken in the carts yet so I dont think it was from a botched fork job. Should I just discard these things, or would it be ok to move the hydraulic lock retainer back into place and braze/repeen it, then polish the scratches out? I have other carts for this bike but it was nice to have two sets in case I wanted to make a change to the forks while another set was on the bike.
1. If the scratches are on the upper part of the damping rod (meaning the part that does not go into the cartridge) then do not worry about them. If they are on the lower part that goes into the cartridge some people would replace them and others would make sure they moved without any binding and move it. 2. Replace the hydraulic bottom out piston set ups with bump rubbers from GP Suspension. Make sure the "cup" has the holes drilled in it or you will still get the hydraulic locking effect.
They dont make them for this bike. And the lower is good, but that hydraulic lock retainer is actually moved about 1/2" up the damper rod (thought the bushing had more play than that) so theres more damage than I thought. I assume the gp ones are some sort of hard rubber? I might just make a set myself. Ive contacted them a few times about it and they werent willing to make anything, or work with me to get a set made.
File the grooves smooth and remove the hydraulic stop completely and you will get 10+mm of extra fork travel. If you are concerned with bottoming then run a bit extra oil. Also replace the stupid long top out spring with a short one. The last set of those forks i did i got new top out springs from traxxion. If you remove the hyd. Stop then the forks will bottom with about 17mm of slider showing.
Yep. The shorter topout spring increases fork length. I checked it several times to be sure it did not go past the internal top bushing but it was not a problem. Got a lot of shit from Ohlins installer buddy (Hey Asshole, 2mm of free bushing is 2mm too much.) I chuck the bump stops and set oil to give me the proper bottom out on hardest braking. On my GSXR forks when there is about a 1/4" left of shiny fork tube beyond the zip tie, it is at mechanical bottom out.
I ordered a set of TOS. They are half the length, and twice the spring rate of the stockers. What oil level are you guys running on this bike? Was going to start with racetech's reccomendation of 110mm but that seems like way too small of an air gap. They also recommended that on my R6 and I ended up running around 150, and would have gone with a larger air gap if I had kept the bike.
