(Automotive) BMW Knowledgeable Folks: I Need Your Insight

Bear in mind that at the event I mentioned, if you go 200+ more than twice, a roll cage is required.

For me, I hope to hit 190-195 a few times, then 200 for the first time. You then get a warning. Second time, it's the end of the weekend for you. I have no issue with that (probably for insurance requirements). You do get a piece of paper with your "certified" speed.

 

Almost

 

What voltage did you have to give the tach and speedo to make it read that? ;--)

What model? My first choice would be an e63S AMG, but as soon as I started looking at them, their prices jumped up.

 

CLS63, 07 natural aspirated engine

 

Where in the fook did ya hit that Zoran?

 

The 405, of course.

 

You want to see how fast is your car just do Nevada challenge race
https://www.nevadatravel.net/event/silver-state-classic-open-road-challenge/

 

out on 27 every Sunday morning?
Cars dont need any additional distance to achieve terminal velocity vs a bike. They may need traction control & downforce.
The runs they do on 27 are a lil less than a mile and at sea level. I would bet there are guys eclipsing 220mph in <1 mile on hyper bores or similar type bikes.
Oh and most dont wear leathers as there is a notable aero advantage...lol

 

I love those, didn’t realize they went that fast. I prefer the older body style versus the new ones. Is it 08-12 that have head stud problems and 06 is good?

 

Interesting, I didn’t realize that. How much of a difference?

I remember back in 85 when I moved and brought my dragbike down from Illinois to my new home in Texas and went to the track. They let guys drag race in a T-shirt and jeans down there because it was hot.

Hell for me it was better versus Illinois heat, since the humidity was so much lower. I was out there wearing my “leathers” and thinking these guys are crazy.
And they thought, Damn that Yankee is a fool over there wearing leathers in this heat.

 

500hp stock . For heavy car they move pretty good.
Think all M156 engines till 2011 had possible studs issues. My was in range but I did not have problem with it. Sold it with around 60k miles on it.

 

a few mph & some bike lengths.
It was unnerving at first but eventually you find a comfortable tuck position (crawled under the paint) so you can stay on the throttle and try to run right into the limiter just beyond the finish marker.
The other tidbits I found was the ignition timing should to be retarded for best results. How much depends on the bike & also if you can switch maps on the fly.
You dont "chop" the throttle off when done or pop up out of the cockpit until you get below 150.
The runs last about 25 seconds WFO & start from a slow roll to marked points... whats amazing when you pull 8-10 lengths off the start and a faster guy comes from behind slowly & deliberate then nips you by 1 bike length at the line.
Another tidbit I found interesting is that getting into a tuck helps at the dragstrip for trap speeds... 1-3mph.

 

Well theres the 2016-2019 Cadillac CTS-V. They do have a top speed of 200.

 

Yeah used to always tuck at the drag strip, Easier to be consistent that way.

Another thing I did in my later years, which I think helped a lot, is when I would pre-stage I would get into my tuck already and have my feet back at the pegs so when I launched there was almost no body movement to upset things for the rest of the pass. I felt it made me much more consistent and I rarely race anymore but the last time out, I won first place by doing it that way.

That strategy is much easier to execute on a slick and wheelie bar bike which is all I really ever raced

 

Head bolts.
Basically every AMG since 2003 has about 500hp, the NA 6.2, the previous S/C'd 5.5, the turbo 5.5.....

I've been around BMW too long, I know this is gonna end poorly if you buy an Alpina. Its just a standard 4.4 turbo engine with tuning really anyways, I'd buy a normal 7 series and tune it with the extra money saved.

 

Well, the model I'm looking at has a factory claimed top speed of 312 km/hr, or 193 MPH. Magazine testers have gotten very close to that in the reading I've done. So not much work, relative to your statement. But yes, it will still not be easy.

 

You don't know your cars very well. The price difference (in the era cars I am looking at) is easily justifiable.

 

What kind of clutch? Hand, air, or slider?
I rode a couple of bikes with sliders... its like riding a scooter & easy to get low a 60' time but worthless on the return road.

 

That setup I explained was a slider. Yea we don't ride them back, because it heats up the clutch and potentially wears it out. We were ET racing. My dad has an air override on his slider so he can ride it back down the return road. He just added that last year or the year before.

When I did most of my racing there were no sliders and the MTC lockup may have been out, but I hadn't seen one until a few years later. so it was all hand operated for us. But the air shifter was out, so my dad and I setup my first bike with a slick and wheelie bar, and an air shifter. I still had stock 74 Z1 4 into 4 pipes with mufflers cut out. That bike had 49K miles and a windjammer fairing when I bought it for $800.

My first year drag racing in 80, they didn't even have reaction timers yet at the mid west tracks we ran. I lucked out, the way my bike was setup, I usually cut a .0xx, which I learned the next year or two when the reaction timers were added. So I won a lot of races leaving on the last yellow and thinking man this sport is easy, but fun.

 

I know them well enough. Values, not so much since I don't sell and values are meaningless to my job.