1000RR timing issues.

I have a 06 1000rr that refuses to start for me, changed plugs, changed throttle bodies, tried 2 different gas tanks and 2 different gas lines, at thispoint i think its a timing issue. Bike was down so who knows. Anyone have a diagram or proper timing marks alignment?????

 

If the engine has not been opened up, it is not a "timing issue".
You need to test for spark at the coils and spark plugs and you need to test fuel pressure, power to the injectors, all fuses, really just get a shop manual and run the "cranks but does not start" flow chart.
If you meant that it may have a failed cam position or crank position sensor, those waveforms can be tested with a scope, but you can do a real basic test with a 10meg ohm meter.
Really, just find the shop manual on line or in hard copy and start at the beggining, it will save you much time and money.

 

black ... we tried this last time with this same bike right ?

again instinct goes to the following

TPS
CAM sensor
BAS
bad ECU?
or something VERY simple is unplugged...

told you if you happen to be coming down to LI /NY bring the bike ... leave it with me for a week .. ill rip it open and tech it if you want

im sure the other 4 cbr1000rr's in the garage will be happy to keep her happy

 

I had this same problem with a TL a few years ago... After months of trcking stuff down, turned out to be a $11 starter relay.

 

This bike turns over so its not a starter relay, it turns over quick then hard like a car with a distributor out of whack, i have 4 1000rr's sitting here so i swapped out the ECU as well, i swapped out the throtle bodies which i believe have the TPS on them. I have not tried the cam sensor yet. Bike does have spark and plenty of fuel pressure.

The clutch cover was off the bike when i got it so is there a way to check if the motor is timed properly?

 

if the clutch cover was off i had a bike i had a guy working for me reinstall the cover.. if the sprockets in there are off 1 tooth or as silly as it sounds if you put that paper thin wave washer on the wrong shaft/post you will be getting the same effect ..

 

I don't have the book in front of me but remove the valve cover and put #1 piston at top dead center on the compression stroke, you should be able to look at the reference mark on the crank trigger disc/wheel, which unless I miss my guess will reference with the case half parting line or some other (made for the purpose of indexing the crank) marking, cast bump, knob, or pointer.
FWIW, cam and crank postion sensors are much more likely "pattern failure" items, but since you don't know what hammer head had his dirty mitts inside the engine, you do need to look deeper.
As to the starter relay, some systems do trigger the ecu during crank only mode to tell it to select the "start up" map, so if you have a spare solenoid/relay, swap it just for fun.
Try the main ecu relay while you are doing the "parts swapping" thing.

 

Well thats why i wanted to know the proper alignment of timing marks and gears. the thin washer is in the right spot i looked that up on Ron Ayers diagram.

 

where are the ecu relay or starter relay?? chances r i have both of the laying around here somewhere lol

 

under the seat

 

i know what starter relay looks like, what does the ECU relay look like? LOL i cant believe i asked where the starter relay is located, 99% of bikes have it under the seat lol, wow its early

 

fuse box area

 

http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm...l/CBR1000RR/GroupID/318191/Group/WIRE_HARNESS

 

Won't the tip over sensor on those things allow the bike to turn over but not crank?
Do you have the bike in pieces? Is the sensor laying on its side?

Customer once said about his bike that turns over but didn't start: "It crunks but it don't say nothin."

 

Tip over sensor will cut the pump off, my pump runs fine

 

The way this bike turns over is definately a timing issue. Any way to get the timing right without having to pull the valve cover off?

 

Pull the plug out of all the cyls EXCEPT #1 and turn the crank over by hand until you feel the compression build, and watch the marks on the trigger wheel.
(BUT, if you are trying to check cam timing relative to crank TDC, you gots to see the cam sprocket alignment marks at the same time...)
Have you inspected the back of the trigger wheel to insure no morons have altered it to advance it's postion on the end of the crank in a hillbilly attempt to boost the initial base timing?
Any chance you have contaminated fuel? Any popping or backfiring out the T-bodies?
Have you tried new plugs, and are the coils connected correctly, sometimes simple stuff will mess with your mind.
Any chance it has a theft deterent system, or parts of one left in the circut?

 

Trigger wheel is good, does not look like its been messed with, as far as fuel i have tried 2 diff throttle bodies and 2 diff tanks and got nowhere, result is same. I would put my $ on the fact that its not timed right before anything else.

Basically what i need is to make sure the cam and crank are properly aligned, are there any marks that need to lign up on right side of the motor under the clutch cover.

 

Did you take it OFF and look at the BACK of the trigger wheel to make sure the index notch (or whatever it uses to keep it pointed where the designers intended) is intact?
If you can see the entire trigger wheel, you should be able to see the alignment markings on the case (or the case half seams) at the same time.
Have you swapped crank and cam sensors yet? They DO control timing of the fuel and sparklers..

 

One more thought..are you swapping parts off the same year bikes?
Earlier and later models may not share the same electrics..