06 GSXR 600 - STVA/STPS issues and Clutch switch "issues"

I've been hunting for a bike to do some coaching on and turn a few laps on for the summer/fall. My landlord has his old 06 GSXR 600 and I brought it to the shop yesterday to check out. It's been sitting for 3 years so the gas is pure varnish. I'll send the injectors out to get cleaned and I'll clean the tank out.

The real "issue" I have is the FI light is on for C28 and C29. Which is the STVA and STPS. They were wired open completely and definitely destroyed the stepper motor. Besides having a fast idle, do I have any draw backs of just removing the motor, sensor and removing the butterfly flaps besides the FI light?

The other issue I have is the clutch switch wasn't connected at all. The bike is setup for keyless ignition and it has to have the clutch switch jumped somewhere because it was disconnected. I found the clutch switch in the front headlight harness and plugged it in. For obvious reasons it doesn't function. Does this bike NEED a clutch switch to not go into the "neutral timing map"? Or did that start with the 07+? I could have sworn you needed the clutch switch on these things because it has gear dependent ignition timing maps?

 

You can run without the secondary butterflies, but you lose midrange. Drag racers run Suzukis like this all the time.

Jumping the clutch switch initiates limp mode on all those years of Suzukis.

 

I'll get another set of TB's for it then. I would rather have the mid range and these TB's have seen better days. Also the OEM stacks on these bikes are black and not polished right? I think this bike has aftermarket stacks in it.

 

There was some guy on ebay that fixed those for like 60 bucks. Look into that if you don't want to buy whole new TBs. I've done it before twice and it was legit. Mailed it out, got it back in a week working great.

 

Yep, go search stva gsxr fix on ebay. He's still doing it.

 

Ill probably buy another complete set of TB's with the assumption that the STVA will need to be fixed regardless. These are really gummed up and I can get a complete setup thats pretty clean for about $100 bucks.

 

$95 shipped for a set of complete TB's. No complaints. Now to figure out the clutch switch issue.

 

Andddd 50%ish leak down on 2-3-4 and compression is 124-107-112-120. Safe to say this motor might be tired. Just a little bit. Not sure if I'll end up buying this thing.

 

I thought there was a procedure around somewhere about how to wire a resistor into the clutch switch ti bypass something or other. On my racebike I have have the clutch switch wired to a Kawi kill switch button. When I start the bike I just hold the kill switch button down (which basically mimics the clutch being pulled in and hit the starter. Gets around the limp mode nonsense since the bike had the OEM clutch housing removed.

And yes the stock v-stacks are black rubber. Aftermarket ones like Factory Pro are Al with rubber boots at the bottom.

 

Run the colored wires from the switch and eliminate all other controls if not needed..and put the wires back in the harness behind the RAD....

 

Here's my clutch switch where the key used to be. Connect wires to start, disconnect to ride. Ghetto but it works.

 

Clutch switch is fixed. I found where they jumped the wire at the yellow plug and just re connected the clutch switch back.

Now I just need to decide if I actually want to deal with this tired motor.

 

The bike definitely has those factory pro stacks in it.

If I can find a good condition motor for $750-800 and get them to come down quite a bit on the price I'll probably still snag it.