Got around to replacing the oem judder spring and washer with the spring plate on my 16 zx10r as directed in the kit manual but I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around the stack height now. With the stock spring and washer I had the height at the stock recommended 53.5mm, using the 7 x 2.9 and 2 x 2.6 steels. I'm still playing around with the slipper via the engine braking and leaf springs so I'd like to keep it at 53.5mm for now. After I added the judder spring plate and removed the innermost steel plate as the manual stated my height is up to 54.5-55.5mm, (can't remember the exact value off the top of my head right now, just know it was atleast 1mm more than recommended) I replaced all the remaining 2.9mm steels (8 at this point) with 2.6mm ones and I was still a little over, around 54.2mm. I've ordered 7 of the 2.3mm steels to get back down into the 53.5mm range. The manual states to measure the judder spring plate while compressed in a vice (i measured 5mm vs the 5.15mm uncompressed) Not sure if I'm missing something but when replacing the judder spring with the judder plate will most of the steels need to be replaced with 2.3mm ones? I'm not sure even with all 2.3 I would be able to get the height down into the 51.9-52.4mm range if i wanted to get more slip?
Use 6 of the 2.6 steels and 2 of the 2.3 steels. With the kit spring plate your stack height should be right around 52.7mm when compressed with this set up. I would also recommend using the shortest kit spring retainers and modify at least two of the spider springs (we only use 1...but start with two). Looking at your picture you have all 48 block style frictions. I would use 8 36 block frictions (13088-0013) and 2 of the 48 block (13088-0003). There may be a difference in thickness between those frictions that's messing up your stack height. Make sure to put the two 48 block frictions on the ends...sandwiching your pack.
Was hoping you'd see this thread haha. So your saying use the 6mm spring retainers with the 52.7mm stack height instead of the 7mm recommended for that range in the manual? Yea the picture of the frictions I took from one of EDR performance's instagram posts. I guess they like using 48 block frictions for the entire stack. I measured my existing frictions (8 x 36 and 2 x 48) and they're all within spec and not much different than brand new ones actually. It doesn't look like the thicknesses differ between the two variants. Are you cutting the legs off of the leaf spring entirely or going halfway? I heard that some cut half of the length off for a different pressure.
Yeah, I use the smallest ones just to get the most amount of preload on the springs. My rider likes that feel when engaging the clutch the best. I've always just used the standard friction set up. I probably have measured them at one time but I wasn't sure if they were different thicknesses or not. We've messed around with different stack heights and the 6 2.6/ 2 2.3 set up has been the best for us. I've cut off all the fingers on the spider springs and use them as spacers basically. We started with 2 but have gone to using just 1. He says he likes the character better as he enters the corner. We've spent some time matching the EBC setting to the clutch character. I feel like we have a pretty good set up now. Every rider is a little different with what they want the bike to feel like on corner entry. I'd suggest setting up the clutch first and then playing with he EBC settings to fine tune the bike's character.
Awesome thank you, always great having a resource like you available on these boards for us kawi guys!
Put a 2009-2012 ZX6 (600) clutch in it. You’ll need the 600 basket, hub, pressure plate and spacers but it all bolts on. I’d have to look at the 600 race kit manual for the stack height but I was using one spider spring in that clutch too. The lever pull is heavier but the performance of the clutch is better and adjustable.
Bringing this back from the dead. I am not sure if I did something wrong, but I could use some clarification. I replaced my clutch judder spring with a 40% spring plate and all new steels and frictions. (I wasn't really having clutch issues, but I had time and since I was pulling the trans again I figured I refresh the whole thing.) 48 block 1st and last. 36 block for the rest. I used 6 2.6 steels and 2 2.3 steels. My clamped stack height is 52.78mm and I assembled it with the 6mm spring retainers. (I also cut fingers off the spider washers while I was in there) steels and frictions were lathered in oil as well. Here is my concern: With the bike on the stands, NOT running, if I put it into 1st gear and pull the clutch in, I can BARELY spin the rear wheel. (feels like the clutch isn't disengaging all the way) I adjusted the clutch cable and everything else and I cant find any issues. I have pulled the stack back out twice to double check height and it is 52.78 clamped in a vice every time. So, I decided to put the old stack back in as well as the OEM retainers. Put it all back together, and its fine.. I can turn the wheel by hand just by pulling the clutch in. (OEM stack height is 53.5mm.) So I then put the new clutch stack in once again with the OEM retainers, and there is no change. I can barely move the rear wheel with the clutch lever pulled. Is this normal? Maybe just some condition of using a spring plate? I have never used a clutch set up this way, so maybe its just nothing I've seen before and has me anxious? I didn't try it at all with the engine running because I am waiting on some parts. Hopefully @DDK732 see's this and can offer some insight. Thanks guys.
I've never checked the movement of the rear wheel on the stand with the clutch in so I'm not sure if that's normal or not. It seems like you've put it all together correctly. I'd ride it around the block once you get the engine running and make sure everything is working properly. I think you're good though.
Ok, that gives me some re-assurance. lol For some reason I have always checked a clutch like that initially (on the stand and in gear not running) This is the first time I ever changed to a spring plate deal though. I asked a few friends and they responded with "I never check a clutch like that" I'm assuming everything is fine and I just randomly gave myself a fit of anxiety for no reason at all.. Thanks for your response! it's much appreciated.
just tried this with my clutch set up to DDK's spec and my wheel turns relatively easily with little force, not as easy as neutral obviously but in line with what i would have expected
Yeah... so... fun fact... I somehow got the clutch pull rod wrong every single time with the DDK-Spec stack. I then put the OEM stack in and got the clutch pull oriented correctly. (this is why it was normal, and seriously just weird luck) THEN when I put the DDK Spec back in I got it wrong again (for like the 5th time) UUUUGGHHHHH SOMEHOW...LOL .. When I put the DDK-Spec stack back in, after him assuring me I got everything right and to just try it. I got the pull rod oriented correctly, and it turns just fine in 1st with the clutch pulled. GOOD GRIEF. lmao.. embarrassing..
@DDK732 I plan on purchasing the EVR slipper clutch setup for this season. Quick question, do you recommend running that same stack spec that you had run with the stock style slipper clutch? Planning on running fresh plates and frictions too, so I need to know what to order. Thanks for all the knowledge you pass on!
Yeah. With the EVR clutch use the same stack set up. We ran that in 2019 with Andrew Lee and liked it a lot.
