? connecting 120V 30A generator to the house panel...

Thank you
Sounds like either this is at least one part of your profession, or you know a great deal about this, or both.

This reminds me of the classic line in the first JAWS movie- we're going to need a bigger boat.
I'm going to need a bigger generator.

After what little I've learned on this so far:
- not to screw something up- I haven't.
- it seems easier now to just get a 240 capable genny
- I can move a few breakers around on my main panel, and use a proper interlock plate.
- I can add the propere size wires to the 50A generator receptacle outside near the wall of my in the basement main breaker.
- until alll the above happens, I can run a heavy gauge ext cord thru my basement egress window for my reef tank and basement fridge, and sump pump, and if needed furnace.
- I can run other Ext cords for the upstairs fridge, comforts, etc.

To me in the end it does seems easier just to run the main off a 240V capable genny.

I need a bigger boat! LOL

 

There is a product that you install between you meter socket and electric meter.
You then just plug you generator into it and it powers you home.
And if I am correct??? It stops you from possible back feeding into the power line.

 

I've heard of this. I'd still need a 240v I would think.

An interlock keeps you from 'back feeding' anything.

 

Also, when moving a few breakers around on my main panel so that the interlock will work,
Do I have to worry about how much is on each side of the panel, as in to balance it out? I don't see how that would be possible since loads and demands are always changing.

Also, when I do this I'll be putting one double breaker to the other side (current wiring will fit easily) by removing a 30A double breaker for my clothes dryer that we never use fron the right side. Then I'll and moving 6 single breakers down, on the left side.
Sound OK/doable?

I found this 240V genny I may get soon:

WEN DF1100T 11,000-Watt 120V/240V Dual Fuel Portable Generator with Wheel Kit and Electric Start - CARB Compliant, Black
Brand: WEN
4.7 4.7 out of 5 stars 1,636 ratings
400+ bought in past month
-12% $789.99

 

TWO things to remember about that ^^^^ generator that you posted.
1. No where in their info about it do they publish what the THD is for it. If you read back through the posts that made, remember, the THD is an important factor when considering something that will provide power for almost anything that has electronics in it.......and almost everything these days have at least some electronics in them. Usually, when a company doesn't mention what the THD is for their generator, there is a reason for that........they don't want you to know because it is HIGH.....
2. Even though it say 11,000W, that is the peak power output. The running wattage is 8300.......just so you know and realize. And that running wattage drops down to 7500 if you are running it on propane....

I've added a third point, and this is personal opinion. I would NOT.....and actually DID NOT purchase a generator that has a THD of more than 5.....but that's up to you.

EDITED to ADD This: I just found the THD ratings for that genny and they list it as less than 15%. That number is quite high, and certainly qualifies as a generator that you would NOT want to use for anything that has electronics in it. It would be perfectly fine for a construction site....running power saws, drills, lighting, etc....anything without electronics

 

EDITED to ADD This: I just found the THD ratings for that genny and they list it as less than 15%. That number is quite high, and certainly qualifies as a generator that you would NOT want to use for anything that has electronics in it. It would be perfectly fine for a construction site....running power saws, drills, lighting, etc....anything without electronics

Electronuics in it? As in a desk top computer on a power strip? Smart TV? ?

 

And what about this one, that apparently is no longer available?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-...Powered-Portable-Generator-RD905712/204234903

It ways 120/240V Single phase?

What is single phase then? Apparently it works on other peoples homes to power it up?

 

Anything electronics.....now days, it's not just computers, it's TVs, phone chargers, refrigerators, Air Conditioning units, Heating units, thermostats, kitchen appliances, garage door openers, you name it....if it's modern equipment, it's probably got some electronics in it for whatever purpose. Burning up a phone charger may not be terribly expensive, but replacing a refrigerator, microwave, AC unit, water heater (even the gas models probably have some electronics inside them for the control circuits, and the same with a stove)....those thing will make you wish that you had some clean power instead of something with high THD numbers. I'm just sayin, and you can take it for what it's worth.....mostly it will not happen immediately, but the effect of high THD will mostly be accumulative and will get you sooner or later.

 

You'll need to look through the stats and see what the manufacturer claims as far as THD. If you can't find it on their info page, it's probably high enough to scare someone away that is in the know. And like stated in an earlier post yesterday.....if it's an Inverter type genny, then it will not be an issue....they pretty much produce clean power across the board.

And you question about single phase.......almost every house (not businesses or commercial or industrial) will have single phase power coming into them. Technically, it's called Split Phase because the transformer is center-tapping on the one winding on the secondary side of the transformer. Center-tapping the winding will be able to give you a 120VAC leg (call it line 1) and then another 120VAC leg (call it line 2) and the center tap is the neutral wire that is common to both legs. The line 1 and the line 2 are 180° out of phase with each other, and that allow for you to be able to have 240VAC if you check from Line 1 to Line 2......and 120VAC from either leg to neutral. The neutral/ground bonding is strictly done inside the breaker panel.

 

If I was going to go to all that trouble I'd want a much bigger genny, and I'd want it semi-permanently mounted in an enclosure. Last thing I want to deal with in a bad storm is dragging the gen out of the garage and hooking it up. I got a decent tri-fuel 9KW unit but the power has only gone out here a couple times for a few hours in 2 years so I haven't bothered. Not too much trouble to run a few cords to keep my fish tanks and fridges running.

 

Update:

The more I learn about this, the more I want to do it right.

I'll keep my 120V 3600 watt genny for Track days, and emergency power via extesion cords until I have my generator backed system for the house linded up.

I so far have the correct 50amp double pole breaker

Today, I installed the generator interlock block out plate to my breaker panel/box.

Using the plate as a template to dril the holes for the screws:



And the plate installed:



I was lucky enough to find and install the correct interlock deivice- for my 30 year old breaker box!
Obviously the generator breaker wil go on the top on the left side. I already have the double pole breaker, and know how I'm gong to move some breakers in the panel around to make this happen.

I'll be getting the 6/3 gauge wire a 50 amp circuit is spec for.

Then I'll get the generator receiver, the cable, and another 240v/ 50amp gennerator so that it will in fact power up most all of my home. I'll try and sporing for an inverter style generator that puts out muc cleaner current too.

Mostly to keep my large reef/coral/fish tank operating and warm.

 

And, I have purchased the 6gauge/50A connector,
and this 50A Inverter generator- that produces 1.5% THD at full load!

https://www.amazon.com/WEN-GN625i-C...X1R7/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1

I want to thank all the people who helped me make the right decisions in the right direction involoving this fairly technical build.

That's why I come on this site- alot of very knowledgable people.

 

A shout out to all the good advice I have received these last few weeks as I learned and gathered all the correct to code necessary stuff. items for the build.



I even went with 6Gauge, 50 ampinlet system for if and when I ever get a 50amp generator.

I did buy an inverter style generator- Max 1.5% THD 240V capable at 30 amps.



My Generator inlet project:



This norning I had to drill some 1" wood holes for my 6 Gauge inlet feed wire. Installed a PVC conduit that goes to the inlet box outside.

Ran the wire thru the floor joices like the electricians do. I even got the correct plactic wire keeper for the metal breaker box and punched out one of the few remaining holes in the top of my breaker box- like an electtician would.



Got my breaker relocation scheme ready, and cut the main power. I had flashlights ready, and my wife who had 911 ready to dial on her phone LOL. Removed the electric dryer breaker on the right side of the panel, and moved the A/C breaker from the left to the right in it's place. Then I moved the 6 single breakers on the left down 2 slots leaving the spot for my 50Amp double breaker for the generator inlet power. Turned the power bakc on- everything's fine.



Then I Got the Genny out, hooked it up to my Generator inlet box and started it up. It took 2 pulls. Then I used my interlock to shut the main off, and I shot off all the other breakers too.

Then turned the Generator breaker to On. Then turned on the other breakers.

Everything looked great! Everything working fine! Like the whole house.

Success!

I love it when a plan comes together!















So now I won't worry as much if it's wet/raining if the power goes out now that my sump pump for the basement to keep it from getting water in it will work!

And, I don't risk loosing my fish and Coral in this big reef tank I keep. And ther food, and human comforts too.

 

Well, I figured somebody would be at least remeotely impressed at this project, and how I feel I actually did a nice job on it. I feel certain it would pass tech/ I mean, inspection to code.

Here is a pic of the sheated 6/3 wire I ran. It's the black one going to the top left side of the box, and it goes thru a plastic keeper fitting that I used one of the 2 remaining knockouts for.

 

Glad you got it all done and are happy with it. It's a good feeling to know that you aren't at the mercy of the weather and/or the utility company for having at least some power. The finishing touch should be that you update your breaker usage nomenclature info to reflect what each breaker is for now that you've had to move some thing around.

 

Even if said electronics have inline transformers that convert to 5v like a laptop?

 

Other than your choice of generator, well done! I'd do the same, but my main panel is an old Pushmatic breaker type, and I have not found an interlock kit that works with them. Changing to a more modern panel is on the list of shit to do... at number 2739

 

High THD can and probably will, over time cause issues with that too. And then, depending on what happens to it, could cause issues with the laptop or whatever the power supply is hooked up to. I guess the possibilities are it could cause higher than normal voltage output, lower than normal voltage output, or maybe just quit working.....to me, it's not worth taking the risk.

If you feel like diving in and reading about it a bit, here is a link to read......
https://generatorbible.com/blog/what-is-thd/

 

This got me curious about the THD on the HF Inverter genny's. I looked at the new 9500 (on sale for $1899) and it says:
"Pure sine wave inverter technology safely powers sensitive electronics such as smartphones, laptops, and TVs"
but I couldn't find a THD spec anywhere.

And yes, I realize that's WAY more than the OP spent on the generator he got, but "go big" and all...

 

Thanks for the replies everyone.
I think I mentioned that I do now have an Inverter Generator- that is rated at 1.5% max THD. (that's one point five, not 15%)

I do have to relabel my paper for the breakers too.