Yesterday during a race, I somehow over cooked the front brakes and completly lost the front brakes. The brake lever just went to the grips on a high speed braking zone. Im thinking I over cooked the brake fluid. I'm running Lucas dot 4, nothing special or "race fluid", fluid had 2 trackdays and everything was fine. But during this race, I lost front brakes twice! Track temp was 73F My setup is brembo MC, EBC Gfax (1 trackday) pads, ABS deleted, pir sc1 tires on 2017 R6 Do you guys think it was the fluid that failed? I know guys used to remove the silencer plates in their calipers, for drag and cooling. but I never liked that idea for safety reasons. So I left mine in! Do you think the brake MC is the issue, its 2 years old and never had a rebuild. Another buddy on an R1 the same day had the same issue with his brakes. Im looking at fluids I heard the motul 660 is good stuff, is the 700 better?
I'm a fan of ATE TYP 200, sadly you can't get the red and blue tinted versions in the US for fun visual proof of flushing but the US approved light yellow colored stuff works just as well.
I was comparing the RBF 600 vs 660 last year. I believe the 660 has a higher dry boiling point but a lower wet boiling point. I always use the 600 in a Brembo MC on my 19 r6. I was having lots of fade issues until I rebuilt the calipers and replaced the pistons. Zero fade since then using RBF 600. So might be a combination of dirty calipers and fluid. Don’t go cheap on something as important as brakes.
Castrol SRF. The wet boiling point is absurdly high, so your fluid will still perform great when you put off changing it or don’t remember how long it’s been since you opened the bottle.
Wow that Castrol stuff is 518 vs 399 wet for RBF 600. What’s the drawback? Nothing seems to ever be better without a tradeoff.
Cost. $60 per liter. And it’s not sold smaller than 1L, so you will prob feel bad about throwing some away unless you have a fleet of bikes.
Only drawback is the cost. It's been called "React" for years now but I think "SRF" is also still on the label. I haven't even looked for anything else for years, but a quick search brings up Endless RF-650 as a comparable alternative, but it seems to be even more expensive. Anyone try this stuff?
I agree! some pricey fluid! Maybe ill try the motul, because the fluid I used wasnt intended for racing.
Always curious at racers and track day guys who spend thousands on go pros and other jeejaws and can’t spend $60 on their brakes.
All my builds get Castrol SRF. It fixed some brake fade issues we experienced on the ZX10 back in 2018. Been using it ever since with the same results.
Been running similar setup as you in my GSXR's and RSV4's for many many years.....EBC GPFAX pads, Brembo M/C's w/Brembo or Tokico calipers, but with RBF 600/660 fluid. Never a problem with fade or loss of brakes. Maybe you had some air in your lines after your last bleed and bubble(s) were stuck and they let loose? I'd take the calipers off, inspect/clean....check for leaks at the bleeders on calipers/MC.....flush system with RBF 600 and a THOROUGH bleeding and have at it.
you havent listed if you have steel braided lines? I think everyone posting here is assuming you do... But please do-tell... I agree on the air in the lines. I have only experienced brake fade at one track (Fontana) in a race. It was EBC pads. Motul 600 is good stuff. I am not familiar with those pads you listed also. I have switched from running EBC HH to Vesrah pads and never looked back.
I've always said that EBC HH pads are the worlds' worst brake pad unless you're cruising the strip at 20 mph , or going to starbucks for a latte. Every dealer in the world stocks them for every motorcycle, hence their popularity....ill informed as it is.
Castrol SRF user here too. Brakes used to be really spongy by the end of a race/session on the big bikes with RBF600. Never have that problem with Castrol. I am a big guy, 210, and have been told that I am very aggressive on the brakes (late braker) so I build a lot of heat.
Don't discount a caliper check. If those pads are dragging you aren't shedding heat when you're releasing the lever like it should. Had that on my R6 race bike when the piston seals were due for a rebuild. I ended up just getting some low mile calipers and problem solved.
This reminded me, for our first few years, I didn’t know you should clean brake calipers with soapy water or simple green. Do not use brake cleaner, it is bad for the caliper seals. Unbolt the calipers, not the lines, and clean away with a toothbrush and soapy water, dry off, and then reassemble.
Yup abs deleted 17 R6 braided brake lines. I always clean the calipers, and very lightly rub tiny bit of grease on the moving parts. It was just weird, I kept having to adjust the remote adjuster throughout the race. But I think I know the cause of the issue now, I read the wet boiling point of the fluid on the new fluid I was using, and the previous fluid I had in there. The new stuff which I thought was for racing, turned out it had 20% lower wet boiling point versus the old. Now the motul 660 I recently purchased has a higher boiling point. Many years ago I used to race with HH pads, there like trackday pads. I loved them because they didnt bite and chop the front tires as hard as race pads and they last a good while. But now tire technology is much better, so me using the GFAX helps me brake as late as possible without tucking the front.