Hey guys, I want to decrease my wheel swap times at the track. Bikes a 2016 R6, I purchased the captive spacers that help a bunch. I was wondering what are some tips or tricks to make changes easier. I have seen the fast frank racing modded brackets, although it is on back order. On ff site he shaves/chamfer the edges of the brake pads and safety wire one side to keep the caliper spread open. On fast franks rear set up, I see the brake caliper is permanently fixed to the adjuster spacer. I was thinking maybe its possible with some machining. Drill 2 holes on the spacer, and on the brake caliper and tapping threads into the brake caliper bracket. Then counter sink the holes on the adjuster to allow an allen bolts to to be fastened. https://fastfrankracing.com/web-store/ols/products/captive-rear-brake-caliper-bracket
yep, thats the best bang for buck way of turning a usual 10-15 minute shitshow trying to change a wheel into an effortless process. I would probably not try to freehand drill it but use a drill press so that the hole is perfectly straight and lines up correctly between the axle block and caliper bracket
Nothing worst then you swapping tires wearing leathers in the heat between sessions. Especially when the rear brake binds up on you as your trying to line up things. For me it effects my riding, because I rush to make on the track. Those first couple of laps your trying to catch your breath.
I dremeled flats on the caliper bracket, drilled it all, and tapped the axle adjuster. I did it that way because countersinking on the inside of the adjuster was near impossible without more/larger holes. I used the axle to keep everything aligned while drilling. The two new bolts dont really need to be that tight - you could probably even get away with one bolt. With generous amounts of locktite, mine has worked without issue for years. The last part that makes wheel changes easy is the FastFrank Lifters. They have a lip that holds the rear wheel up, very close to aligned with the axle. So it takes far less work to get the chain on&off and get the axle in&out. With PitBull's GP spools on my stand turned upside-down, the rear tire is only 3/4" off the ground which also makes for less work.
Woodcraft rear stand can also be adjusted to have the rear barely off the ground. Helps a lot when trying to change during pit stop but not so much if you are needing to put warmers on.
What do you mean by dremel the flats on the caliper bracket? Do you mean the spacer adjuster you just shaved it down to accept bolts. I was thinking of using tiny allen bolts. Also the lifter did you mean this? https://fastfrankracing.com/web-store/ols/products/rear-wheel-guideholder
My bolts go from the caliper bracket into the adjuster. There's not enough of a flat lip on the caliper bracket to allow a bolt head to sit flat, even a tiny one. So I used a dremel to make some flat portions, then drilled the holes there. There are the lifters. https://fastfrankracing.com/web-store/ols/products/r606. I have a 15' R6. The ones you linked are similar, they just don't have the stand portion.
This is definitely a whippin to deal with at the track. Have ya'll found the regular captive rear caliper to be good enough or do you prefer the underslung kit?
The regular captive caliper bracket is the 80% solution for sure. I have quick change F&R on mine because I hate swapping wheels in leathers and sweating like Michael Jackson at a NAMBLA convention. I will say the wheel ramps that hold the wheel up when pulling the axle out is worth it alone, and I love having the full blown quick change.
On your next fork service, have the FF floating fender brackets installed. You'll still have to deal with the axle and pinch bolts, but you won't have to remove calipers which IMO is half the battle! I have quick change fronts on all of my bikes and I love them. You only need one tool at the track to change wheels!
