I'm in the market for a 6x12 enclosed trailer and I'm trying to decide between a standard front and v-nose. I'm sure a v-nose will cut the air somewhat better, but is it a significant difference? Also, will a 6' interior height vs. a 5'6" interior make any difference in mileage? I'll probably be using an I6 Grand Cherokee for the first year, so these questions seem relevant until I get a stronger tow vehicle. Finally, if the trailer is rated for 3500lbs. and I'll be pretty close to that with everything. Should I be looking at a tandem axle? Thanks for the help.
I would go Vnose for sure if you can. The 6" extra would be better just for being inside the trailer and not hitting your head all the time. Tandem axles are heavier and with the tow vehicle you have now it would probably be exceecing the tow rating.
You will definitely want to go w/ tandem axles, and electric brakes, particularly because of the small tow vehicle. Tandems pull so much more easily, and won't get as squirelly on the brakes. Most any vehicle can pull a trailer, it's getting it to stop that is the issue. I think (but don't have evidence) that the v-front won't make much of a difference because more than 1/2 the drag comes from behind the trailer. Go w/ the 6 ft ceiling. Mine is about 5'9" which is great for me and gives me great entertainment everytime Keener hits his head. Pete
I recently bought a 6x12 V nose, single axle trailer. Cargo Express brand. $2400.00. It also has a ramp door and the axles are "dropped" ie "lower". Don't waste money on dual axles and brakes. I tow it with a GMC Jimmy which is the same as an S10 blazer. No problem.
Ummm, please don't follow me . I had a 6x8 with a single axle and no brakes that I towed with my Excursion while I was waiting for my new trailer. One time I had to stop hard in Atlanta traffic with it loaded for a weekend of racing. It scared the CRAP out of me! It just plain wouldn't stop. Please get brakes. Especially on a trailer that could double the combined weight of the vehicle. Check your manual. I bet it says something about when you need trailer brakes. I also wouldn't spend the money on the V-nose. I don't think the aero helps. STEVE
i tow a 6X12 enclosed (no v nose) single axle with no trailer brakes. if you allow yourself room, you should never have a problems. trailer brakes lock up all the time anyhow allowing no assistance. (when you panic stop)
Not if you have the correct and correctly connected and tuned controller, for your application. Trailer brakes are a good thing, anyone who says different is a fool/tool.
now wait just a second. they rarely in my experience have been set up correctly for a panic stop. just how do you set them up for panic stopping anyway? i guess those silly tractor trailers you see locking up trailer wheels all the time are correctly set up for every application. i simply said they aren't absolutely secessary. it's a 6X12 fer crying out loud. not a 40 footer. signed, fool/tool
Dear Fool/Tool Tractor Traliers have air brakes, not electric brakes, and are not as adjustable. 3500+ lbs. pushing straight on the trailer ball is not as good as the brakes trying to stop both trailer and tow vehicle. when properly setup the brakes will NOT lockup. All "good" controlers have a setup manual, follow the directions and you will be surprised at the results, even under panic braking. Ours has a manual over-ride that you can use when necessary, and in some cases has helped avoid a bad situation.. It is also threeway adjustable, for better response and brake action. However we pull a 7x16, loaded. But with a much larger tow vehicle.
I find the electric brakes on my triple axle trailer life saving (along with the exhaust brake on the truck) but I will ALWAYS have problems with them. I believe there is never a perfect setting for them as the situation is always changing. What works great at 70mph locks and drags at 5mph and vice versa. Also need to take into account loaded vs unloaded trailer as well as HOW much loaded as this can change the weight and thus needed stopping power.
It's all in the controller. Tekonsha makes a controller which provides progressive feed of voltage to the brakes, which in turn determines how much braking the trailer does. There is a infared light, when you apply brakes with the tow vehicle, there is a direct correlation between brake pedal force and how far the window opens which lets the light through, which in turn feeds the voltage to the trailer brakes. Walla...progressive brakes on a trailer that should only lock in very severe applications. The brillliant thing is, they are easy in town and tight on the interstate and you don't have to constantly adjust them like you had to do the old style. Hey Mr. Lynn, hope ya'll had good holidays.
I've got a Haulmark 6X15 V-Nose single axle trailer. Pros: 3000lb rating is a little easier on the tow vehicle Cost: about $3000.00 Aerodynamic - to a certain degree "V" area inside allows for nice tire stack Less chance of jack-knifing the trailer due to "V" Cons: 3000lb rating (trailer empty weighs 2000lb) Single axle makes it difficult to balance load Trailer "waddles" sometimes at higher speed (70+) No brakes (brakes required on 3500lb or higher rated) I could add another axle/brakes to make it more stable and safely carry more payload. Or, I could sell it and get a bigger trailer! Anyone know any tricks to control the "waddling"?? It's like the nose is hunting for a path through the air resistance...
Sounds like standard sway to me. Try adding more weight to the front of the trailer. Approx 15% of the weight should be on the tongue/ball.
I've got a 98 cherokee I6 that I pull a 5x10 box with. It has plenty of power to pull the load. I once hauled 3 people with enough food drink and camping supplies, 2 race bikes and an 80cc 4 wheeler (can you say "tounge weight"?). I say definitely get brakes! Even with an empty trailer (1000lbs) it won't stop well. A 6x12 is probably going to be all you'd want to pull with a small vehicle. I've never tried it but it seems like my open traier with the same weight pulls a lot easier than the box does. I think the extra ihnterior height would add to the problem signifiicantly. Maybe we should rent a wind tunnel and do some testing to be sure?
I don't think V-nose is needed, though my advanced physics degree is on back order from the mail-order catalog. Here's my only evidence: We pull our bikes with a friend's I6 Grand Cher. in an 5X8ft box. It actually drags less than a 5X8 landscape trailer with 4-ft gate. Reason: box continues the lines of this rather boxie Cherokee. he notices little drag since it tucks right in behind. But- 3500 lbs is an awful lot to stop without extra brakes. My choice: single axle, flat nose, elec. brakes. If you go without the brakes, please don't drive behind me if you pass thru Atlanta.
This controller?: http://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/m...tore_Code=E&Product_Code=90185&Category_Code=
Tandem axel with brakes is the only way to go in my opinion. Saying brakes arnt nessesary for a 6x12 is like not using a Lid if you only riding down the street. you will thank yourself if you go ahead and spend the exta. and your forhead will thank you if you go for the extra 6 inch of hight.
The best thing about trailer brakes in my opinion is the ability to "brake" the trailer only. With the use of the controller mounted switch. This allows you to cut the swaying from one side to another. I think what your all missing is the big picture. How much of a price difference is there between the tandem and single anyway. If you can afford it, get it. You can always use more weight carrying ability. The difference between v-nose and standard is a asthetics issue I feel. The v-nose look goofy. I have a 16x8 Carson. It is a v-nose, but the point runs horizonal with the road, not vertical like a snowmobile trailer. this allows you to build a workbench up front. Just my 2 cents.
