Clutch sticking on a 2011 GSXR750

I bought my 2011 GSXR750 this passed March brand new. At around 600 miles I switched to Amsoil full synthetic oil. After I changed it, and it might just be in my head about the Amsoil, I started to notice the clutch sticking on cold starts. I use the bike mostly for street use, but I have done 2 tracks days about about 10 passes at the drag strip. It currently has about 2300 miles

I notice it mostly at cold starts. In the mornings I usually start it up and let it get to around 130 degrees before jumping on it. When coming to a stop it is sometimes difficult to shift from 2nd to 1st, and when in first it will just drag and eventually stall the engine when I over ride the brake. In the same situation if I am coasting to a stop and feel it start to drag I can blip the throttle with the clutch lever pulled in and feel the clutches break loose. It happens at times at operating temp, but if I have been on the bike for a while and it is good and warmed up it usually acts fine. This is my 5th GSXR and second 750 and I have never had any other clutch problems, and yes, the adjustment of the clutch cable is correct.

Thinking it was because of the Amsoil, which I had previously never used in any of my bikes, I switched it over to Silkolene full synthetic on Friday and rode it around a bit. While the shifts feel better (which might be in my head), it is still dragging.

The bike is still under warranty, but I have done quite a bit of things to it (bazzaz, full exhaust, ect). Even if they would cover it, if its just a clutch I think I would rather do it myself.

Any ideas for things to check before I pull the clutch apart?

 

Do a full clutch adjustment and see if the issue still exists.

Not just a cable adjustment but also the worm gear via the clutch cover.

http://www.servicemanualsgsxr.com/tag/service-manual/

 

Sounds like warped clutch plates. End of story

 

Ill try the adjustment.

If it is warped clutch plates any ideas? I am by no means a new rider and I dont ride the clutch. I did take it to the drag strip but I have been down right abusive on my other GSXR's and never had this kind of problem, especially after 2300 miles...

If its warped clutch plates can I get by with just replacing the plates or should I do the plates and the clutch material?

 

I was thinking about it some more and was debating the warped disks.

If that was the case, why would it go away when cold and why can I pull the clutch in, rev the engine, and it breaks free? If they were warped wouldn't the clutch stay engauged regardless of revving the engine?

 

Steel plates are hot spotted and warrped a little. If your oil smells a little sweet then the fibers are burned as well. When you rev the motor and have the clutch pulled in (clutch pack is dissengaged) the area that is dragging between the fibers and steels are so small the revs overcome it, it just glazes over that area and does not provide forward drive.

 

So if I pull it apart I should see hot spots on the steel plates? I am going to pull the clutches apart this weekend and take a look.

I still find it pretty weird this happened so quick. Ive been having this problem since about 1,000 miles, and its got about 2,300 on it now. In comparison to my previous bikes I feel I have treated this one pretty well as far as beating up on it.

 

Just replace the parts that are burnt worn out. I just replaced all the steels and kept the old fibers and it solved my slipping clutch problem. I would mic the fibers to be sure.

 

I am not a fan of sytheitics in any slipper clutch...heard too many horror storries about slipping....

also are you sure the clutch has a good amount of slack in it also??

 

I can't imagine toasting the plates on the limited abuse you gave 'em. That's not to say pulling the plates out and scuffing them up with a "green meanie" isn't in order, I'm just sayin' I don't see you having to buy new plates.
Clean 'em up, put 'em back in and shitcan the Amsoil...the bike obviously doesn't like it.

 

hum....prolly shouldn't believe everything you read on the internet.

 

You mean take them out, measure them and decide what to do then. And obviously Amsoil is a shit oil.

 

I REALLY would like to avoid turning this into an oil thread, but is that the consensus? My manager at work is an Amsoil dealer and he showed me all the propaganda and it was cheap, so I tried it out. I feel that all the oil threads are so misinformed with opinions instead of data and they are always a shit ton of reading to go through. I always ran Silkolene in my previous race and street bikes without a problem. Off the bat I noticed smoother shifts with the Silkolene, but its still sticking.

 

I've never seen warped plates because the operator was using the clutch as intended...only when they were burned to a crisp from real abuse. It does not sound to me like the OP is a moron.

Sure, measure 'em if you want to but that steel isn't going anywhere and I'll bet a straight edge doesn't show any light.
The fiber plates might need something but wouldn't he have a slippage problem then? At any rate, just de-glaze 'em.

I think sometimes people are too quick to spend other people's money. If the plates are glazed, causing either grabbing or slipping, clean 'em. No need to buy hundreds of dollars in parts to replace ones that just need to be cleaned.

IF the parts are out of spec, that's the criteria for replacement, imnsho.

Not having seen the OP's parts, I'll go as far as to say, "I guarantee his plates are within spec."
________

Oil. It's about the additives that give it its clinging ability. The Amsoil is too sticky on the surface level. Great for parts that function under friction loads, not great for parts held together by mechanical pressure and released for occasional moments.

 

Good stuff. I have access to a straight edge, I'll see what that shows. As far as deglazing the fibers, just use something like a scotchbrite pad andante soak them in some fresh Silkolene oil prior to putting them back in? (Assuming they look ok visually?)

 

I lay a sheet of emery cloth on a really flat surface(plate glass) then scuff the plate around on the cloth with light, even pressure. If needed, spot scuff particularly hard glazed area...the idea being to knock off the glaze, not the fibers.
Wash/rinse w/ soapy water and towel/air dry. I don't bother soaking but I will coat them prior to installation.

The steel plates you can be less gentle with and scotchbrite works well enough just scrubbing while holding in your hand but laying it on something prevents an accidental "tweaking." I have used the emery on a set of plates that were glazed badly to good affect.
Scuff 'em 'til they look like a new brake rotor.
Again, wash/rinse, etc.

 

Awesome. Thanks. I'll post pictures of what I find.

 

Hey there ya have it, just change the oil and you're fixed. LMAO!
He Guarantee's there's no problem with the clutch plates.

Hell you've only made 10 passes at the drag strip and possibly 10 burn outs to get the tire up to temp before your pass......No abuse there

As far as spending peoples money, the clutch comment was to look at the clutch plates to see if they were warped, but I guess that was the loud swoosh that went over your head!

 

I get it that track days and drag racing are hard on a clutch, but I've been riding for 10 years now and never had this issue on my other GSXR's, especially after 1,000 miles from brand new. And FWIW, I don't do burn outs at the drag strip since its stock wheel base and I'm just doing that for fun. I down right beat the crap out of my 2006 600 between track days, drag racing and street riding, and when I sold it with 10,500 miles the original clutch was still going strong.

Could it bet fault? Yes, but I'm pretty disappointed to be having this problem with such low mileage..

Also want to point out that the clutch does not slip at all, even high RPM.

 

Go for it dude! You obviously got it figured out LOL, Was trying to give you a hand figuring your bike out.

just because one bike doesn't break, doesn't mean the other one won't!