I just removed the swing arm from my 07 GSXR-1000 for r&r. I have torqued everything down according to the service manual. I have noticed that there is about .5-1mm of play sideways along the pivot shaft. I don't recall if this was there before I removed it. I have not installed the linkage or shock yet. Is this movement OK?
Yes, you can basically slide the swingarm on the pivot shaft sideways. The bearings are in good shape, no play in any other direction. Its like there is not enough pre-load. I set it at 11lb-ft per the manual. I would assume there needs to be a little space to keep from binding. I just want to make sure before I torque everything.
That doesn't look right to me at all. Hopefully someone who's familiar with that setup can chime in but my gut says no, there should not be any slop in that setup.
Well looking at the service manual 8-61 in the chassis section the drawing doesnt depict any gap there as it does for the shock lever assembly, so I dunno. Did you follow the service manual for putting this thing back together? I'd copy/paste it for you but dont know the implications of that.
Yes, I followed the service manual to the T. Torque wrenches used on all fasteners. The more I think about it, there does need to be room. The sleeves (silver right next to SA) are stationary and they become the inner bearing race. If there was no play, they would bind on the swing arm.
I just confirmed with a dial indicator that it moves .019", or approx .5mm. The general consensus is there is too much movement. Are there any techs or race bike builders to confirm? Thanks for the input so far.
Just went to the garage and looked at my 07 1000. I've got the same gap. I replaced my swingarm last winter, and did everything per the manual as well. I found this. http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=118331 . Same mfg, different bike but same problem. My gap is closer to this guys 1.5mm gap.
I am having a buddy look at it who is a tech. I will update for future knowledge. Considering I did not replace any parts, im thinking its ok.
That may be the production line tolerance but I would be looking for shims or thinking of turning .017" off the center sleeve. On second thought, check the play when the bike has been ridden 50 miles or so. Lot of heat coming off the motor flowing back over the SA. I wonder if the thing would get hot enough to grow enough to close up the slack ???
? Does the pivot shaft screw into the frame pivot boss? According to the manual for my K6 it would appear that it does-says to torque the pivot shaft to 11 #/ft and then torque the nut to 73 #/ft while holding the shaft stationary. I would think that the preload on the shaft would take up any axial clearance.
Yes, this is the correct procedure. However if all the space was taken up, the thrust part of the inner bearing sleeve (this sleeve does not move, its fixed to the frame when torqued) would bind on the swingarm. I have not installed the linkage and shock yet, that might do the trick, but I am waiting for my buddy.
If it's binding on the swingarm your inner spacer is too short or missing. It's just like torquing down a wheel, the fork lugs press against the spacers which press against the INNER bearing races which press against an internal spacer, repeat out the other side. Torque it up and viola, spins without any binding. Your swingarm is setup to act the same way. http://www.servicehondapsn.com/fich...=Motorcycles&make=SUZUKI&year=2007&fveh=11386 Item #3 is what those two spacer/bushings (items #6) butt up against. That's what prevents those spacers from binding on the swingarm when you torque the assembly down.
It is not binding, which is good, I just want to make sure there is not too much room. Kurlon, the difference is the style of bearing. Look at part 6. That sleeve is the inner race of the SA bearing and is removable and slides freely. A wheel bearing has the inner race permanently installed and is captured by the rollers and keeps the wheel centered. Its close but not exactly the same thing.
Unless the '07 is significantly different from the previous years, the threaded sleeve in the frame is ADJUSTABLE to take out that play. Read your manual again. The 11 Ft/Lb of torque on the sleeve is to take up the play and establish a slight preload, which is removed when the large locknut is torqued. There is a special socket for that job.
Yes, the 11lbs makes sure the sleeves are bottomed on the center spacer. I did torque it to 11lbs and I do have the socket for the castle nut. My friend who is a tech looked at it and he said its fine. There has to be space on this design. There are other SA bearing designs that have bearings designed to take side preload and have adjuster within the frame to remove all the slack. Mine is not like that. Thanks to all that chimed in.