That's a fact, but it's a shitload more fun do that work going 20 mph on a real bike than it is to go 12 mph on a piece of junk.
Like I said above, I ride a bicycle, but I'm hardly a bicyclist. But I have noticed that bicyclist are worse than us motorcyclist when it comes to gear....it's almost trance inducing to them. My brother sinks a ton of money into his shit because he uses it. He does 24 hour races and some race up a big hill in Georgia that is supposed to be pretty well know (I'm clueless as to what it is called). So now that my son has gotten into it he thinks he has to have a 4 grand bike. I told him if you spend 4 grand on a bike then you need to start looking at another place to live. His FZR sits in a corner needing work to be ready for this year but he would rather shell out hundreds for more bicycle gear. I'm way too old school. A $300 bike and big legs is all I need to have fun.
I've got that beat (with 2 bikes)! Actually, its an interesting calculation (and surprisingly one I haven't done), so I now need to turn on my full geek and see what I've got. I know I had over 4k road miles last year, but I think I should take trainer time into consideration as well. Joe - I will have to do that math and come back to you. As for the OP, you can get a good start in cycling for under $1k all in - including good shoes, shorts & saddle and all new equipment. Clipless pedals are worth the $$ (ensure good cycling technique and maximize the transfer of effort to the bike), but you don't need to spend more than $100 on shoes or more than $80 on the pedals. If you buy a used bike (a great way to start if you aren't sure you will love cycling), make sure you get the right size. Go to a bike shop and have them fit you before you start searching so you know what size you should look for on CL or the local club forums. DO NOT buy a bike that isn't the right size or you will never be comfortable. No matter how great a deal, if it doesn't fit you, you will not ride it well.
Well I would say if you want to test it out then go ebay or CL and find a cannondale or Trek with 105 compnants for the $700-$1000 range I am a believer that you get what you pay for...do you need a $3000bike hell no but does it make a difference Hell yes..weight and components, rotational weight all make a difference. I am a cyclist so between my wife and I we have close to $15k in bikes for road and Mountain. We just upgraded or mtb's becuase we are doing more endurance racing and have signed up for ORAMM 8-10hr mtb race Now did I pay that much No I got a great deal on a set of wheels last year for the wife's road bike...normal price $3k just for wheels got them for $1400.. as an entry level person I think you could go to local bike shop and spend about Bike $1200 with 105 stuff Shoes $80 Shorts and jersey $100-150 gloves $20 socks 410 Pedals $50 for spd by shimano with that you would have a decent setup that you could ride for a few years and get comfortable...and you could riode it longer most likely just upgrading the wheels set to lower rotataional weight would give you a solid bike... That's my 2cts... but like I said if yr not serious no reason why you cannot buy used i sold my canndondale Six for $900 great bike...
Shoes, helmet, bib overalls, shorts, jersey ( long sleeve), jersey (short sleeve), gloves, computer, xtra tubes. Just bought an indoor trainer cuz I ain't riding in 30 degree weather! Your ass hurts the first 2 weeks.
I love it. Got me off the couch, I'm losing weight and I feel wonderful. Drafting in group rides is way cool and lots of hot chicks do this.
peddling a bike is peddling a bike. If you are commuting and need X amount of miles in X minutes then buy big $$. If you are just getting into shape it dont matter. If you get a nice light bike (carbon etc.) you will have to peddle it longer to burn X amount of calories then a cheapy. Buy a craigslister. I got a giant cadex 980 (all carbon but older..late 1990's) for $500. It came with over 500 dollars of Campi hardware (derailers, shifters), Upgraded brakes and shifters, a 200 dollar saddle, custom carbon forks, extra set of rubbers, and two pairs of shoes with clips. Its not great but not bad and its not so nice that I cant lock it up. http://velospace.org/node/3129
Orignally, there were Toe Clips (with the cage on the front of the pedal) and then there were Clip-less (No Cage).
I get the "better components" argument because it makes riding less of a hassle when you don't have to fight the function of the machine but as for weight and generally making the ride easier on yourself; it's TRAINING so in theory, the harder the workout is the better, right?
I got a Fixed Gear bike of Flea Bay... PK Ripper.. Used to race the BMX PK's back in the day so I know it was a decent bike... Paid like 400 on E-Bay last year... Changed the bars put on a cage for H2O and Im set....Its a 58...Im 6'2 and its perfect... I ride about 20 Miles 3 times a week on the Greenway (Protected Trail for Bikes and Joggers) Its perfect... Its like a Mountain Bike with Road Wheels... No Gears to f with.....
One thing I have noticed is that the good stuff goes wrong far less than the average stuff, especially with wheels. For example high tension spoke wheels need very little maintenance compared with the regular wheels. I commute every day plus ride the mountain bike at the weekend. Saves a ton of money. When I had regular crappy wheels on my commute / wet weather bike I had to true them every 2 months or so. So I put decent wheels on it and have not had to mess with it since. PS Many cyclists buy lots of gear because they are bitchy snobs. Seat time is more important.