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Which Torque Wrench?

Discussion in 'Tech' started by Bob E., Oct 24, 2006.

  1. Bob E.

    Bob E. _________________________

    What brand/type of torque wrench do most people use on their race bikes? It looks like a 3/8" would cover 90% of the torque range needed.

    I have seen beam type (long pointer parallel to the main bar), clickers, dial and I think some with digital display.

    I worked with heavy equipment for twenty three years and have found that small bolts (less than 5/8") in aluminum just can't take what I consider snug. :D
     
  2. 3/8" ft-lb will handle about 70% of the tasks. For smaller bolts, you need an in-lb wrench. For larger bolts, like axle and sprocket, a 1/2" is necessary.

    Beam wrench is the most accurate, but is a real PITA to use. Other types are more convenient, but need to be periodically recalibrated. I use the clicker types, and send them off to be recalibrated every two years.

    I've been through several brands, and have found the Husky brand to be the best price/performance value. Stay away from Craftsman clickers - they are junk.
     
  3. GixxerBlade

    GixxerBlade Oh geez

    I use Kobalt.
     
  4. Cannoli

    Cannoli Typical Uccio

  5. Dave K

    Dave K DaveK über alles!

    Proto on both counts. Can't afford Snap On or Mac.
     
  6. BrianC636

    BrianC636 Well-Known Member

    Snap on digital.
     
  7. g.mccormick

    g.mccormick Well-Known Member

    IMO the beams are not very accurate. At work i have 3 snapons. clicker 3/8 20-100ft-lb, clicker 1/2'' 50-250 ft-lb., 3/8" techwrench 5-100ft-lbs. The 3/8clicker and in-lb clicker would get you most what is needed, or you can get a tech wrench since it does in-lb, ft-lb, & n-m; but that is more money than really needs to be spent for you at home torque wrench.
     
  8. bigx59

    bigx59 Banned

    mac 3/8 tourqe wrench, blackhawk inch lb wrench
     
  9. GixxerBlade

    GixxerBlade Oh geez

    Psst. Clickers are beams too. Just hidden by a tube.
     
  10. Bob E.

    Bob E. _________________________


    FYI. The clicker that I dissected had a rocker piece that is forced by spring tension to sit flat until leverage on the stub ratchet caused it to toggle to one side.

    A while back I bought a cheap 3/8 clicker from Harbor Freight. I promptly pulled the threads out of a rear sprocket nut while using it. I wondered if one type (beam, clicker, etc.) was preferred over the other.

    This time I will go up a grade or two.

    Thanks
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2006
  11. g.mccormick

    g.mccormick Well-Known Member

    I think you know what i mean.
     
  12. Bandit 600X2

    Bandit 600X2 Well-Known Member

    I always use a beam type torque wrench. I get better results with them, especially when I torque a head down on an engine.
     
  13. GixxerBlade

    GixxerBlade Oh geez

    Yeah just doing what I do best. being a smartass. I'm not even a good racer. :D
     
  14. benprobst

    benprobst Well-Known Member

    If you can afford it go with the snap on, I know when assembling the internals on our superbike motor I wouldnt use anything else. But if your Jut putting rear wheels and oil drain bolts the a cheaper ( note I said cheaper not cheapy) wrench will work well enough.
     
  15. Trinity Rx7

    Trinity Rx7 Well-Known Member

    I have the snap-on click type in 3/8 an 1/2. With tools I think its worth it to spend a little more and buy the best becauase you will keep and use it forever.
     
  16. Gumby647

    Gumby647 Señor Member

    +1 on the tech wrench. I've had one since they first came out. Supposedly they have a new one that does degrees also but I haven't seen one yet. The only down sides are the price and it seems to use up batteries pretty quick.
     
  17. g.mccormick

    g.mccormick Well-Known Member

    The snapon guy that comes into work has had some of the new techwrenches a couple times. I would like to use one sometime to see how it works.
     
  18. merle4

    merle4 Menace to sobriety

    The techwrench is awesome. It is hard on batteries. Instantly convert ft-lbs to in-lbs to n-m. Paid 320 for mine. Previous owner engraved torque values all over the bike, but did it both ft and in. Nice to not have to look up everything when working on it. Pain to try and convert different scales. I love mine.
     

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