If you were buying a kit tomorrow what would you buy and why & is the gas charged stuff really $1000ish better than the other stuff.
I think the gas-charged stuff is really more dependent on rider ability (to get the most out of it). For regular racer folk, the cartridge stuff works well (imo) and all the major kits seem to be pretty close nowadays. That said, I've run only Ohlins in my last six bikes ranging from 25 to 30 mil cartridge kits; the newest gen 30 kits are dialed in pretty well.
I've found the Ohlins 30 mil kit to work very nicely in my S1000RR, it is easy for me to set up for different tracks and tires. Quite consistent and predictable. I have no direct on-track experience with any of the others. One of my clients had me remove a K-Tech kit from his ZX-10R and install an Ohlins. I know that Dylan Scott also pulled out a K-Tech kit in favor of an Ohlins.
I'd have to look at what the kits provide to justify the cost. In the end you are looking at the size orifices, shim stacks on the mid-valve, the base valve shim stack and the bleed circuits. Not rocket science, just takes time to dial in. That's why you pay a tuner. They have done it many times and know what *should* work for the average rider.
I have AK 20s, happy with them... I also like the fact that they can be swapped into a different bike pretty easily... Echoing what Suburbanrancher said, they all do what they are supposed to...
Not really an option for the newest bikes out only 30mm that said I have them in my k7 1000 and love them. Had AK 20s in my K5 1000 they were way better than stock but not as good as the 25mm Ohlins. The AKs also were not messaged by T-man like the Ohlins so...
30 is more than 25, so it has to be better. Plus Ohlins stuff is gold colored, which is obviously better.
AK20s in the 1000 Ohlins 25mm in the 600 Both are excellent, I prefer the feel of the front end on the 600 a little bit better. Could be purely a setup thing or not.
I have 25mm Ohlins in my 04 ZX-10 and seem to work quite well; though I suppose having Doug Chandler set them up didn't hurt either......
I feel that they all work and with the right tuning can work very well. They all work on different ends of the theory of suspension. Traxxion has explained why they feel a 20mm cartridge works better, K-Tech has a different belief w the low speed bleed (I personally do not know much at all about K-Tech, but have seen their compression needles and they are a bit different than what I am use to, Ohlins 30mm seemed to have some people grumbling at first , but they seem to have tuned that out. The really cool part to.me about the 30mm is how serviceable it is. You can revalve the fork on pit road if you choose to. And then the G.P. and Race Tech 25mm. The G.P. works very well, the valving is good and it is similar to the Ohlins 25's were you can change a spring w/o a compressor. The Race Tech (I've been told, I personally have no experience w them) work well but are not just plug and play like the Ohlins and G.P. All in all if you have someone that knows how to tune said brand they all seem to work well. But I tend to suggest to customers the G.P. 25's and the Ohlins, because that is what I know (I don't claim to be a Kent @G.M.D.Atl or Thermosman ), but I stayed @ a Holiday inn once.
I blame the percocets .... Guess they don't make that kit anymore but they're are still plenty of them floating around out in the world That's what's on my 600 and reworked by mike ... If I were building another bike it would probably get the ohlins 30 . I have had 2 bikes with the ohlins stuff on both ends and have always been happy
Ohlins if it is set up well. Some brands have bigger margins of safe area, meaning it's harder to tune yourself out of the ballpark. Hear Ohlins is pretty easy to do that, but you also have the most data available.