Trailer Setup Advice

Discussion in 'Tech' started by 647, Aug 13, 2022.

  1. 647

    647 Well-Known Member

    @SPL170db, @metricdevilmoto, @Rene Bucek, @Monsterdood, @DWhyte91, @TurboBlew, @baconologist, @D-Zum, @racepro171, @Spitz, @DmanSlam, @2blueYam

    Thanks for your advice last fall on barn doors vs. ramp and other enclosed trailer options. I managed to find a enclosed trailer that was short enough to fit in my garage and sorted out all of the details around parking and storing it. It has been a super busy year. Most of which hasn't involved motorcycles at all and I am now finally getting a chance to get it set up and looking for some advice, ideas, and photos on how other people have set up theirs.

    It is a 2021 Cynergy, 6x12, v-nosed cargo trailer with a single Dexter axle. Not the best trailer in the world, but should do the job.

    Here are my current plans, again, looking for some input:
    • Weather proofing and sealing
      • Caulk gaps on the bottom
      • RustOleum Bedliner spray to seal the bottom
      • Roof sealant: This looked like a product designed for a metal roof
      • Floor paint: I want to use some sort of durable paint on the floor. Was thinking some sort of Behr deck/porch paint. Not sure if there was something else that might be better.
    • Insulation: I am going to remove all of the interior sheathing on the walls and insulate with foam insulation. Will also insulate the ceiling.
    • Electrical: I would like to have a 240V 30A weatherproof exterior electrical hookup to which I can connect input power in the pit. This would be wired up to a small breaker box from which I can run a circuit for lights, internal, and some weatherproof exterior 120V 15A outlets. Basically, plug power source into the trailer and then I can use the trailer as a power strip from the outside.
    • Tie-downs
      • E-Track installation along the walls to strap down canopies, fuel canisters and other cargo and some along the floor so that I can transport a bike for which I don’t have a TRS system.
      • I am going to get a Pit-Bull TRS for my bikes
    • Ventillation/AC: Because I need to fit this in my garage I cannot install an AC or vent on the roof
    • Workbench/Counter: I’d like to have some sort of workbench/counter that I can use for food prep and fixing things I break
    • Shelving: I’ve seen photos of trailers that look like someone has installed adjustable wire shelving like you would use in a closet organizer in your house. I am guessing that someone makes something made more specifically for cargo trailers and curious if anyone has used such a product
    • Gear: I’d like to have a closet rod to hang leathers and jackets and somewhere to store my riding gear that I can easily get at. I'm guessing if I find some sort of modular shelving system that will work I can use it to hang a closet rod.
    • Trailer Spare: I’ve got a full spare wheel/tire for the trailer and need to store that somewhere out of the way
    • Spare Motorcycle Wheels: What sort of set-up do you use for spare wheels/rains/tires etc?
    • Bicycles: Any ideas on the best way to secure bicycles
    I would very much appreciate seeing some photos of your trailers and how you have set them up and any suggestions about where to go from here.

  2. Kurlon

    Kurlon Well-Known Member

    240V shore power? Everything I've seen has been 110v, either 20A, 30A or 50A, I've never seen a place that supplied 240V.

    And before you go nuts on the roof, is it leaking now, or showing signs of impending doom?
  3. 647

    647 Well-Known Member

    @Kurlon probably just my ignorance on the subject. I thought that RV shore power was 240V. Is it just 120V 20/30/50A?

    AFAIK, it isn't leaking now, but I the sealing job that it came with seemed pretty lame and I figured I'd just do that at the outset to avoid it leaking down the road since the cost for a couple of gallons of the sealant isn't that expensive.
  4. ducnut

    ducnut Well-Known Member

    Make sure, any caulk you use is paintable.

    What I did was I used Pittsburgh’s OIL-BASED farm equipment paint on my walls, since any oil or grease will wipe right off. It takes a few days to completely cure, but, it’s very durable and practical for trailer walls. I painted all the way down onto the floor, covering the caulked joint. Then, I masked about 2” up the wall and applied Pittsburgh Paints Revitalize to the floor, overlapping that caulked joint and up the wall. Revitalize fills in most of the floor’s texture, seals it, and has texture already mixed into it. My trailer has been done like this, 9yrs. Two years ago, I recoated the floor and it looks like new again. I’ve spilled oil and gas on the floor and haven’t had any issues, over the years. Recoating went right over the stains, without any trouble. I did wash it out with Dawn and a scrub brush, first. It’s important to give everything plenty of time to cure out, before walking on the floor or mounting things to the walls. I left the doors open and the trailer sitting in the sun, ~4 days.
  5. TurboBlew

    TurboBlew Registers Abusers

    have 2 spares... mount them to a wall stud with something like this:

    Make sure they are accessible when the trailer is loaded.

    As for a spare wheel shelf:

    As for a work surface... make a folding one off of a wall. Options are endless & you can use simple triangle hinges
    Maxtrap likes this.
  6. 647

    647 Well-Known Member

    @ducnut, awesome, thanks! That sounds like it'll do exactly what I need.
    @TurboBlew, thanks! Looks like those items will work perfectly.
    ducnut likes this.
  7. beac83

    beac83 Well-Known Member

    In most places the power sources are one or more of the following:

    120V 20A (regular grounded outlet) - Most common and easiest to find
    120V 30A (standard TT-30 3-pin RV outlet) Pretty common, but not as plentiful as the standard outlets
    120/240V 50A (standard 14-50 four-pin RV outlet) Available at some, but not all tracks - Fewer of them overall, and there may be competition for the limited connections.

    Those are the standard connections. I'd base your wiring on the actual need.
    If you aren't installing an AC unit, 120V 20A will probably be sufficient for a 6x12. No need for fuses or breakers. Just use GFCI outlets.
    If you are adding a 120V AC unit, then the 30A wiring is probably needed. Separate breakers for AC and everything else.
    If you are planning on making it a full-on party trailer the pro lighting load may require the 50A 120/240 wiring. Otherwise, its hard to see why you'd need 50A wiring.

    For 20A and 30A, you can get a power inlet (male pins in an enclosed connection) Twist-lock connections are recommended for more secure and trouble-free use.

    There are adapters for converting any of the above to any of the above connections. However, the total power available will be the lowest of the capacity of any connection. For example, if you adapt a 20A 120V connection to feed a 50A 120/240 wiring, you will only have 20A @ 120V available. Any 240V device either won't get power, or will trip breakers from the low voltage.
    Maxtrap and 647 like this.
  8. 647

    647 Well-Known Member

    @ducnut, I searched for that farm equipment paint and found this manufacturer: They didn't seem to have such a paint. I assume that something like this would work just as well:

    This is the floor paint you mentioned, correct?
  9. ducnut

    ducnut Well-Known Member

    I’m an idiot! Yes. It was Rustoleum brand. I bought it at Menard’s and was thinking it was Pittsburgh, just like the Revitalize.

    Yes. That’s the Revitalize I used. I went with black, so it doesn’t show stains.

    As “turboblew” has suggested, I also run two spares. I have them stacked, going up the wall, right inside my door. I mounted the first one, resting on the floor. Then, I set the second one on top of it, marked for the mount, then, secured it. Been like that for 9yrs.

    On the topic of tires, I mounted the original wheels and China bomb tires as spares. Then, ordered a nice set of aluminum wheels and quality tires, to the ground. I’d strongly suggest you do the same. Your trailer should have 205/75-15 mounted on it. You can get 8-ply Goodyear Endurance tires, in that size, which is what I’m currently running. They’re USA-made and I’ve yet to hear of a failure. Maxxis offer an 8-ply, as well. I ran a set of those for 7yrs/~40K miles without issue. Likewise, I’ve not heard of a Maxxis failure. But, the bottom line is to NOT run any Chinese trailer tire as your regular tire on the ground. The Goodyear and Maxxis options are what you want.
  10. 647

    647 Well-Known Member

    A TRS question. If you check out this video at about 1:38 into it notice that there are three plates installed in this trailer. One in the middle if you are hauling only one bike and two, side by side for two.

    If I am only hauling one bike would it be a problem to have it off to one side and should I set it up like this . . . or does it just not matter from a weight distribution standpoint?
  11. 647

    647 Well-Known Member

    @ducnut LOL, not an idiot at all. Thanks for the clarification on the paint and good idea regarding color choice.

    Thanks for the tip on the wheels and tires. I can just get two new wheels with good tires on them and use the existing ones as spares. They are 205/75 - 15s and currently some brand I've never heard of.
    ducnut likes this.
  12. Kev59

    Kev59 Well-Known Member

    I pull a single axle with the bike on the right, centered over the axle with everything else lined up down the left in order of what needs to be taken out first with no trouble.
  13. gapman789

    gapman789 Well-Known Member

    I have 3 TRS in my trailer and offset them to the left so I had a few feet on the right for toolbox, generator, etc....

    trailer patriot 3.jpg trailer tire rack.jpg
  14. lopitt85

    lopitt85 Well-Known Member

    -Electrical: I used a shore power type setup from Noco. I installed 2 of them, that gives me 4 outlets inside, 15 amp. It's a simple and easy setup. This one...,aps,228&sr=8-3

    -Floor Paint: I used Behr deck paint on the ramp with the grit built in for grip. It has held up great, you'll like it. I did 2 or 3 coats.

    -Ventilation/AC: I installed a window AC unit. My trailer was a beat up old contractor trailer so I didnt care about the eyesore of a window AC unit sticking out. If you care about that there is a way to install it inside, build a box, add intake and exhaust vents, and have a really clean install. I just cut the proper sized hole, framed it out (square tubing and angle iron), and installed it. It works great in my 6x12.

    -Shelving: I have wooden shelving built into the nose of the trailer that holds everthing that's not a bike/generator. All spare parts, jack and stands, pop-up, etc. Again, not sexy but functional

    -Gear: I put like 4 hooks to hang gear along each side inside the trailer. I also have eyelets installed that lets me strap whatever I hang to the walls. So that is where my suits hang, great for towels, clothes to change into after riding...I love this setup

    -Trailer Spare: mine is mounted on the trailer tongue with a tire cover. Keeps it safe from the weather without taking up valuable trailer space

    -Bike Layout: I have 2 TRS kits installed too. One slightly forward of the other, even left to right, and weight centered over the axle. If I carry one bike it's no big deal to have it offset to one side. Sometimes I'll balance the trailer by putting other cargo opposite the bike. Sometimes not. Never noticed a difference

    Cant find any photos in my phone but I posted a bunch on here in previous trailer threads. Mine isnt pretty, but its functional. Everything in mine can be done "nicer" for a more aesthetically pleasing appearance.
  15. TurboBlew

    TurboBlew Registers Abusers

    depends on what else you are toting & trailer curb weight. Having the bike load over the axle is the most important then just run the tires at max psi & ballast the other side with a toolbox or genny, etc.
    Adding additional plate locations is roughly $50 each & 30 mins worth of time. Then you can use the hybrid anchors
  16. 647

    647 Well-Known Member

    @gapman789 very nice trailer setup! On the right-side at about eye-level on the wall, is that a vent?
    @lopitt85 thanks for the tips. I would be interested in seeing some pics if you have a chance. I tried looking through your previous posts but didn't find them if you can post a link to the thread that'd be greatly appreciated..
    @TurboBlew, thanks. I guess I could just put the toolbox, and generator opposite the single bike when I only have one. What are hybrid anchors?

    I'm re-thinking whether or not I should install AC. Ultimately, the plan is to get an RV so I'm wondering if the best thing to do is set it up with just lights and some electrical outlets for a coffee maker, foreman grill, some lights and a powered vent. I've got a Chevy Express 3500 15 person van in which I built a floor so I could just use that for living space until I get an RV. I could just go with a portable AC for now like this one:
  17. 647

    647 Well-Known Member

    @gapman789 is that a horizontal e-track strip to which you have the stands attached?
  18. TurboBlew

    TurboBlew Registers Abusers

  19. gapman789

    gapman789 Well-Known Member

    -"@gapman789 very nice trailer setup! On the right-side at about eye-level on the wall, is that a vent?"
    No. that's a sliding RV style window, also has the RV door latch/lock along with the standard bar lock on the outside of the side door. Stabilizing jacks on the rear corners as well.

    And that is e-track where the stands are. Nothing but e-track and accessories. Probably $1000 worth of e-track, hooks, hangers, 2x4 e-track brackets for the shelving, baskets, straps, etc.

    trailer patriot 6.jpg trailer patriot 5.jpg trailer patriot 4.jpg
  20. gapman789

    gapman789 Well-Known Member

    Now you're talking as far as the RV goes. RV + trailer = best setup
    ducnut likes this.

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