I have a big trailer 33'x8'x8.5' and I have a small trailer 10'X6'x5.5' The big trailer I can load 12 bikes plus my NASCAR like tool box, 150-200 tires, generator, gear bags 200 gallons of fuel, 10 spares boxes, air compressor, 4 canopies, generally anything and everything you can imagine to take to race track. Then I have the small trailer which I have to priotize what I bring, BUT I can load 3 GSXRs (two foward one backward[ last time was a 96,98,99]), 5 sets of tires in a tire rack located above bikes, 6 spares boxes located in front of front bikes, 30 gallon fuel drum and about 4 5 gallon cans, plus 2 canopies, and 6 folding chairs. It is tight and anything loose can cause damage to bodywork so we have not done it last couple of years instead it has been two race bikes and a pit bike plus gear. Sway has a lot to do with proper loading and balance of trailer, I find a little more than 10% tongue weight works best upto about 15%. (gooseneck/5thwheel 25%) Be sure hitch is level get proper "drop" hitch for your vehicle/trailer combo. Regarding brake controllers they vary wildly in price and function andgenerally the more expensive the better. I did a little write up that I will see if I can find about them and post it. Tandem axle is going to add a lot of weight and a lot of rolling resistence that for 3 bikes I would say would be overkill except for ONE fact, in the event of a blow out you still have a tire on that side to help maintain stabilty. That would be my reason for getting tandem axle. The catch 22 of the 10' vs 12' is that they generally have the same GVW so the 12' can net less weght and even though it will hold 3 bikes and gear easier it is now overloaded. Brakes are normally an option on these sizes as well. Surge brakes are easiest way nothing on vehcile to fool with. And actually the way I would go on a small trailer of this size if I didn't have electric brake contollers already due to big trailer. Surge applies the right amount of braking as it cannot apply to much but the movement in the hitch is rather annoying a times and requires a yearly service it seems.
Found electric controller info Well I did some research on these a year+ ago and had someone ask recently about them. I HAD to do more research as my last controller burned up on the way back form Atlanta (drug trailer and shorted a wire there; not controllers fault) Found basically 4 types of controllers 1. Timed controllers: these operate on a pre-set time and apply a preset amount of voltage. Pro: hard to mess up settings Con: applies same amount of braking for stop and go traffic as emergency stop Tendency to be very jerky at slow speeds and lacking on brakes at high speed Brands: only one I know of is the Draw Tite controllers Activator series Price $100-200 2. Brake effect controllers: These operate with a spring or pedulum that applies more braking as the braking increases. Pro: the voltage increases as you stop harder Con: Downhill applies to much uphill not enough (generally not a problem) If you set too much braking then it becomes self increasing the trailer brakes so much that it swings pendulum and applies more brake. Uneven road can cause surging of the brakes. Brands Kelsey $100-150 3. brake pedal movement controller This type applies brakes based on how far you move the brake pedal Pro: very linear braking based on pedal input Con: moving parts that wear out and Manf recomends disconnecting when not pulling trailer. Most be installed directly above brake pedal possibly interfence with steering colum Cannot view under steering wheel Brand: Prodigy Ultima $250-350 4.Brake pressure controller These were outlawed a few years back due to brake fluid displacement. New model uses a micro switch in a T of brake line so no Brake fluid displacement. The micro switch tells computer how much brake pressure you are applying to determine how much voltage to apply. Pro: Best most consistent braking over all terrian, trailer types, of any model I have seen Like old Kelsey Hayes Hydralic over electric systems Con: $$$ must connect into brake lines with a T fitting Brand: Brake Smart $300+ (install kit varies per vehicle) oh pricing is installed with all the required relays, kits etc some vehciles will be more some less depending on what extra you need
back to legalities...the single axle on my 6x10 gives me a gvwr of 2990lbs w/o brakes. the trailer weighs 1200lbs. i can carry, legally, 1790lbs. if i add brakes, simple hub swap, my axle will be rated for 3500lbs which means i can carry an additional 510lbs, or 2300lbs total, legally. big deal, right? well, if you now have a tandem with brakes on both axles...your gvwr goes way up...7000lbs! generally, tandems are a minimum 7x14. so, not only will you have tons more room, you will literally be able to carry tons more stuff...@ 4790lbs of stuff, total. a tandem could be seriously understressed. my 6x10, loaded, weighs in @ 2500lbs. i could shove a 55gal fuel drum in there, if i can make room, and still be legal but, who wants to tax a trailer to its limit AND have to slow the brakeless bitch down in an emergency? so, i do w/o the 55gal drum and pray i have no incidents. the other consideration, as has been mentioned, is the tow vehicle. i use a grand cherokee with the 4.7ho. that's 265hp and 330lbs/torque. quite a bit for a small package but i don't stress it...70mph with the o/d locked out. it's rated for 6500lbs towing but then i would need a load distributing hitch...more bs. if you're going 'big'...get 'big' to tow it.
I would recommend a tandem axle with brakes and a side door. Make sure you get a spring assist ramp door and not to tall of trailer. I can stand up in mine but it has too much wind drag. It is 7x12 with all you room you said you need.
Hi Mike: What brand & model of trailer? Can you move the empty trailer by hand? What do you pull it with? My concerns are I have to be able to manuever it by hand (with a trailer dolly) on flat pavement and turn it about 180 degrees. I'm also concerned if the added weight of the double axle (about 500 lbs.) will make a big difference if I choose to tow it with an Expedition rather than my van. Any thoughts?
Don't know where you live but if you are anywhere near Jacksonville, Florida, call Lee Scrape at Ultra Trailers (don't have the number handy). The guy builds a great trailer for a very reasonable price.
Mark, I pull my trailer with a Suburban. I don't have any trouble with this vehicle but when I had a Jeep Grand Cherokee, I knew it was back there. I can not move it by hand and I am not sure about a trailer dolly. I would think you could move it with a trailer dolly on a flat area. If you are close to Louisville, you can come up with your vehicle and pull it around or move it with your trailer dolly to get an idea if it will work. I can't remember the brand name, one of my patients sells trailers and it was manufactured down in Alabama. I have to say it has all the top of the line things on it up to a heavy duty bull dog hitch. thanks, Mike
Where'd you buy yours from? Who's installing the goodies? What goodies did you get? I've got to get something in the next few weeks, and I've found a place that has good deals - but setting it up is still kinda up in the air, which is why I'm asking. Would be great to just order it up, and get the right stuff installed at the dealer. Is that what you did?
Here's a great trailer company for those of you in the Midwest. I bought a 7x16 from them: H & H Trailer
Thanks for the link. It looks like they build a *very* nice trailer, but they certainly are premium priced. Even higher than Pace and United Expressline. Were you able to get a discount over their posted prices?
Discount Trailers (800-348-8541) offers Haulmark deals if you can pick up at one of their locations. They quoted me $1950 for Haulmark Transport (single axle), 6x12, ramp rear door, side door, added height, interior light, roof vent. Best deal I've found so far for a new one. They're in Indiana, and other places. Not sure what their URL is now, but you can do a Google on that number and find them if you want. Someone else posted this info a few months ago, and they liked what they got.
Thanks, but I'm steering clear of Haulmark -- they sell a lot of trailers, but they don't have the best reputation. They're definitely the "low-cost" vendor in the trailer world. I've towed a borrowed 6x12 Haulmark Transport enough to know I don't want a cheap trailer. I've looked at their upgraded Cub series, but they still seem to be lacking in build quality compared to the market leaders. If you plan on using your trailer more than a few times a year for short distances, you might not be happy with the entry-level trailer from Haulmark. I'd encourage you to spend a few evenings doing some web surfing. Like most things in life, I guess, you get what you pay for when it comes to trailers.
Mine is the 7 x 16 with ramp door on the rear. Picked it up just before year-end for $3800 (looks like price on the site is listed as $4795). If I wanted to order one, it would have been 4% higher. This was from a dealer and not direct. Apparently their direct sales are pricier.
