I've heard there is a good modification for the stock clutch but i can't find anything on it, any chance of some help?
You adjust the slipper by varying the clutch pack thickness and removing one or two reaction springs. When you do this, you have to compensate with different spring retainers and a different hub nut. All of these are kit parts normally available from Kawasaki. You should get the kit manual for that model - it's actually pretty helpful.
You can cut tabs off one of the slipper springs..but keep it in there to work right...some guys like it on last, some like it put in first..it affects the slip....make sure you set clutch pack to the correct/recommended thickness, use oem springs but get the thinner 6mm retainers from kawi. Works well. Like RM said, get the kit manual, its all in there and easy to follow and part numbers listed as well.
umm not really. I dont modify the back torque springs on the GSXR's. If anything its more like the R6 slipper. Just get the kit manual, its very well written out on modifying it and various settings. Good luck.
I hope it's alright for me to resurrect this thread to ask about the problem I'm having. I have a 2016 ZX6R, that the prior owner had a 2012 clutch basket installed in, along with the slipper clutch mod mentioned above. Two problems recently started at the same time. First, there's a rattle coming from the engine area when the clutch lever is pulled. The rattle begins as soon as the free play in the lever is taken up, and the cable starts pulling on the pressure plate rod. Also, the clutch is very grabby, such that the bike will bog down but not stall when you put it in 1st gear even though the lever is pulled all the way. I have already adjusted the clutch lever to get 1mm of free play. I've attached pictures of the 2012 race manual to show the way the clutch is installed. In addition, 2 of the star springs had the legs clipped off, like was mentioned above. Here's a link to a video showing the noise: . Thanks for any advice.
Did you pull the basket out for inspection yet? Make sure that all rivets are tight on both inner hubs and the basket(D, E and F in the diagram).
I pulled all the plates out. The basket, hub, star springs all look good to me, although I've never opened a clutch before. I noticed the type of plates and order were different from the Kawi race manual. So I ordered a few replacement friction plates, and put the clutch back according to the diagram I attached. When I had all the plates out, I grabbed the inner hub and tried to wiggle it to see if there was any play, and didn't notice any.
It was 41.1mm. The regular service manual says 40.7mm is the upper bound. So I replaced a 2.5mm steel plate with 2.0mm steel plate. So it should now be 40.6mm. Unfortunately, that didn't change the rattle, or the lack of full clutch disengagement.
A damaged pressure rod still has my vote. Does it spin along with the rest of the assembly while running? And the noise begins as soon as the free play is taken out and it makes contact with the other rod? If that rod is bent and or damaged in any way, it would explain the noise and lack of clutch disengagement, no? Just my free advice and it's worth every penny...
Eric, when we talked last week, I thought it might be an issue with the rod that is integrated into the clutch cover. I took the cover off again, and here's pictures of it. It doesn't look damaged as far as I can tell. And I used my hand, and it doesn't feel like there's enough play to cause an issue or make the noise. The rod that this grabs onto, the rod that actually pushes on the pressure plate, looks brand new to me. There's no visual defects, let alone physical defects.
A stack that is used and too large somewhat suggests warped steels. Changing one steel to bring it back into spec won't fix that. 1mm freeplay at the lever seems low. but I doubt its causing this.
The 1mm I mentioned is at the hinge, not at the end of the lever. I will double-check the steels for warping when I take it apart this weekend. Thanks!
This is not my video, but my clutch pull rod has similar amount of play (in-and-out) like in this video. Should that be? Or should it be immoveable by hand? I made sure it has the washer and spring on the inside of the rod before I inserted it.
Ok, we figured it out. First, I owe a HUGE thanks to Jamie Starace, who helped me all morning with this. Turns out the rattle was from the clutch basket rattling, which was due to 2 philips head screws that had loosened. These screws hold what I would call a metal gasket around the input shaft of the transmission, between the clutch basket and the wall of the transmission. These screws, and this gasket, seem to hold in place a bearing that the input shaft sits in. Because the 2 screws and the gasket had loosened, the whole clutch basket had about 2-3 mm of play in-and-out. This caused the rattle. But it also seems to have caused the grabby clutch, because when I would pull the clutch lever, which pulls on the pressure plate, the whole clutch basket was able to move 2-3 mm, which reduced the effective movement of the pressure plate. I attached a picture showing where the 2 screws go. In this pic, the metal gasket was removed and is laying on the very bottom of the picture. But it normally goes around the input shaft that you see, and is held in place by 2 screws that go in the 2 holes (red arrows). Thanks to all who shared advice in this thread. And once again, Jamie Starace is my hero.
