steering stabilizers.... which one ??

No tank slappers yet on this bike.. but like i said, ive never had the chance to wring her our out... all street miles on this one ya know. On my last bike... yup. thank gosh i had a dampner, it made it alot easier to allow things to settle and keep pushin. More than once that thing kept me from loosing a position or two. I am expecting similair conditions this season and really dont want to waste money on something ill unbolt and give away. Lookin to buy something once .. not wating money and positions on "experementing" (sp?) Thanks for the input guys....
Benny

 

Your cheater motor idea sounded good

 

that is my last resort i have to try and stay up with you. oh and i'll be comin up to visit next weekend and i may bring the yz again.

 

Special Ed,

If your forks work fine over bumps, but you are using all of the available travel, you should add oil to the forks to increase bottoming resistance. (you are technically raising the rate of the air spring on top of the oil...). You shouldn't really have to run that screw in so far (if we valved your forks, anyway). If we just inspected them or serviced them after your crash, and they are still stock valved, I could see why you would be in so close.

But take note, you SHOULD use all of the available travel in your forks. Zip ties are a pain in my ass, because of this...

What if you ride on a race track that is perfectly smooth, and your suspension works perfectly, but somewhere in a straightaway there is a big "G-Out" dip and that drives your zip tie to the bottom.

Time and time again, people screw up perfectly good working bikes, trying not to make their zip tie go to the bottom.

If the fork is actually bottoming, you will most likely know it. It sounds like this may be the case with you, but a little bit of oil will tell. One WD-40 Capful per leg of any old fork oil (it doesn't matter) will help you, or we can check it for you for free. Also, if your oil is dead, that can be a problem.

 

Sprint dampers are $240, and the SNC Racer price is $215, and the extra bracket for a GSXR is $50. These dampers used to be just a few mm too long for a GSXR and you had to take the long knurled knob off of the end, but now they have a tiny knob, and the whole deal is just bolt up.

The damper and top mount kit is $375. It is the cleanest, neatest, fastest, trickest damper rig I have ever seen. It take 5 min for even an non-mechanic to install, and it is absolutely idiot proof. It gives you full, stock, lock to lock travel (which is very important for safety NOT TO SHORTEN UP THE RANGE IN WHICH YOUR BARS CAN MOVE!!!)

Installing/fabricating damper rigs is normally a huge pain in the butt... It can take hours for a good mechanic fabricator to make a setup that meets these requirements, but the Sprint kit has all of that licked.

 

Thanks Max. I did have them re-valved by you guys also. I have only ridden on them 6-10 times since the rebuild so I hope the oil isn't dead. If it was just the zip tie at the bottom I wouldn't worry about it. It is the back wheel in the air harsh as hell bumps into corners that I don't like. I thought you guys would look at them again for me I just haven't had a chance to make it up your way. You guys do have good customer service. Thanks for answering me on here. I'll try the capful of oil at NFMP and see how it works.

 

I had this problem, I have the srcapes on my air intakes to prove it. I used a fork clamp and it works great. I was able to rotate it just a few mm's past the stock location on the forks. now problem. Hey Benny I have been thinking about selling my damper in order to get one from Marmo, they do pay after all. enail me if you are interested. [email protected]

 

Max,

I teste the SV equipped with a Scott's in an upside down situation. No damage to dampner but tweaked the mounting bracket. Probably from side to side action. Fork cap damage, tank, subrame, etc was there too!

Chuck D's 2-cents
(Chucky D in the hizzous)

 

Dearest 13X,

Check out the dictionary sometime, "to dampen" also means to reduce or control vibrations. I have been corrected on this so many times. But no one has ever actually looked it up before they correct me.

The other one is "stabil" which I can't find the meaning for and consider to be "trade slang". A stable is for horses, and stabil is short for stability in sickel racin'...

 

I think he was referring to people that use dampNer. It is the added N that was referenced.

 

Oh yeah, that was one other thing I didnt like about the Scotts was all of the slop in the hole on the dampener where it hooks over the bracket.

A little tiny amount of slop in your bracketing system or heim joint (on any brand) will turn into a lot of slop at the front wheel.

Bend down sometime, grab your front wheel, and wiggle it side to side. You will see how much slack is in your damper set up. There should be none. Zero.