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Small trailer tires...

Discussion in 'General' started by fastfreddie, Jun 5, 2019.

  1. fastfreddie

    fastfreddie Midnight Oil Garage

    Looking for an ST225/75-15 with a D rated (8 ply) sidewall.
    C rated isn't strong enough, E rated is too strong.
    Not afraid to spend $90+ each, need four.

    Was hoping to find the GoodYear Endurance in that rating, no dice. Marathon, yes, but why go backwards?

    The other choices were the the Kenda Loadstar Karrier which I got 15 years out of 'til I hit something that broke a belt. (It's time to renew. :D) Kinda shying away from the Kenda, tho'...figure I've just been lucky and who knows what they're like today.

    Maxxis, yes...who's got 'em?
     
  2. Motofun352

    Motofun352 Well-Known Member

    I have Maxxis on my TH'er. 880 something? Anyways they've been OK. They are 10 ply, E rated. I'd like to go 12 or even 14 ply and over rate the tires. Unfortunately I can't seem to find anything in my 16" size that will work that's not Chinese junk. Why are you concerned with upsizing the rating? Sure it will be stiffer, so what.
     
  3. Mechdziner714

    Mechdziner714 More Gas Less Brakes

    Maxxis 8008 is the one you want
     
    MELK-MAN likes this.
  4. Lawdog78

    Lawdog78 Well-Known Member

    Why would the 10 ply be too strong? Can your rim handle 80psi? If so, seems like that would be the way to go. Those are the same size on my trailer. Only decent options are the Maxxis 8008 or the Goodyears you mentioned that I am aware of. You can buy them on ebay already mounted on a rim pretty cheap too if needed
     
  5. Ducti89

    Ducti89 Ticketing Melka’s dirtbike.....

    Maxxis 8008 with metal valve stems. Beeb said so, so i did.
     
    ducnut and MELK-MAN like this.
  6. BC

    BC Well-Known Member

    you can get E rated 10 plys in 225's don't waste your money on D's unless they come with a nipple.
     
    ducnut likes this.
  7. MELK-MAN

    MELK-MAN The Dude abides...

    https://www.amazon.com/Maxxis-M8008-Radial-Trailer-Tire/dp/B004QL6I0U
    maxxis.. great luck with almost 200,000 miles of towing. had these on my old trailer , got new one 2 years ago and went with 16" wheels, but put a set of 15" d's on my toyhauler.
    Duc89 is right. He may have got enough of Frank's money to buy a set ;) (jokin, totally agree these are excellent tires)

    you don't HAVE to go to 80 psi .. that's just recommended if you are maxing out the capacity of the tire (varies depending on size, not just rating).
     
    Ducti89 likes this.
  8. Rich

    Rich Well-Known Member

    Prices have likely gone up, but I just looked at my receipt from 10/10/17 at Discount Tire

    Carlisle E load rating for $65.

    $365 out the door with all the BS charges.
     
  9. 2blueYam

    2blueYam Track Day Addict

    Maxxis 15” D rating are looking good on my 6x12 5200lb single axle so far. Thanks to the beeb for the recommendation.
     
  10. ducnut

    ducnut Well-Known Member

    Over 40K miles on my Maxxis 225/75-15, 10-ply/ “E” load range and metal valve stems (mandatory). I run them at 50psi, unless I’m going to load heavy.

    Why spend the money on “D” load range and give up extra tire capacity? You’re not going to notice any difference in ride.
     
  11. 2blueYam

    2blueYam Track Day Addict

    If I am over my D load rating on the tire, I am over my wheel and trailer weight rating limits as well. If the E is cheaper, you can run it at the same 65 psi as the D maximum and get the same D load rating on a set of "D" wheels, but the E was more expensive when I bought mine, so why spend the extra? In reality I never go over 4000lb (usually about 3200lb minus tongue weight), so I could run 45 psi in the D, but I run the max 65 to be on the safe side. 225/70/15 tire size with pressures and weights for reference:

    https://www.maxxis.com/catalog/tire-122-129-st-radial-m8008
     
  12. ducnut

    ducnut Well-Known Member

    It doesn’t matter if the tire is rated higher than anything else. You’re buying extra margin.

    With a 10-ply, you’re getting extra plies in the tread and sidewall. When you accidentally hit a curb or that pothole to hell jumps out in front of you, you’ll have extra margin. It’s much safer and reliable to run tires at say 70% of their capacity, versus at 100% of their capacity. If you’re running a “D” load range tire at its maximum 65psi and you compare tire temps to a “E” range at 80psi and under the same load, the 10-ply will be running cooler. Lastly, “E” load range tires require metal valve stems, which are much safer and reliable as they’ll never blow out or accidentally get broken off.

    My employer has ~32,000 tires on the ground. The tires we have the most issues with are the ones running near capacity. On those pieces of equipment, we have no choice but to run that size tire because of vehicle configuration.

    Edit: The price difference between 8-ply and 10-ply is negligible, when you’re only looking at 2 or 4 tires.
     
    Gorilla George and MELK-MAN like this.
  13. Ducti89

    Ducti89 Ticketing Melka’s dirtbike.....

    Well played, sir.

    You always have great recommendations. And Greg travels, A LOT, every year. If Melka endorses something, pay attention.
     
    MELK-MAN likes this.
  14. 2blueYam

    2blueYam Track Day Addict

    All good, I am already at overkill. Typical 3200lb load, so put 300 on the tongue and that leaves about 1450 per tire which are rated at 2540 so I am only at about 57% of rated. Even if one side is heavy it won't be over 62%. One time we put three bikes in, but took a fair amount of gear and spares out so it may have been 3800lb, say 400 on the tongue = 1700lb per tire or 67% of rated.

    To actually use E rated tires at 80lb, I would have to get new wheels rated for that pressure, so it isn't just the cost of the tires in my case. If your wheels are rated for E, then yes, run E rated tires.
     
  15. MELK-MAN

    MELK-MAN The Dude abides...

    You dont have to run 80 psi (or max on whatever rated tire yu run). thats simply max psi for the tire. Closer to max load for the tire? Run coser to max psi.
     
    ducnut likes this.
  16. Sabre699

    Sabre699 Wait...hold my beer.

    Airless.

    [​IMG]
     
  17. Wheel Bearing

    Wheel Bearing Professional low sider

    Says who? Is the wheel going to implode from the extra 15 PSI?
     
    ducnut likes this.
  18. 2blueYam

    2blueYam Track Day Addict

    I am doubtful anything bad would happen, but why take the chance? They are rated for a certain PSI and load for a reason.

    Sure I could run an E rated tire at 65 psi, but I don't believe it is worth the extra cost for my situation (even if it is only $20 for two tires). If I was over 70% of the rating on the D rated tire, I would spend the money on E rated tires and the proper wheels for them.

    Remember this is the small trailer tire thread not the giant toy hauler tire thread. Overkill is good but at some point it really does become overkill.
     
  19. MELK-MAN

    MELK-MAN The Dude abides...

    i'm not advocating ya have to get E rated. The D rated maxiss will work great, and you still don't have to put max psi if not at max load for the tire. I generally run em 5psi lower than max no matter what (when hot i prefer they be at or just less than max psi period). i have D rated maxxis on a toyhauler and they work great. E rated on my roadrace trailer but it has 16" wheels and i'm closer to max load rating.
    why anyone would want less than D rating for ANY trailer, is beyond me... no, it's not the giant toyhauler thread, i get that, but my example has 4 wheels, not 2 that would be typical of a small trailer. You start getting upward of 2000lb PER TIRE real fast with only 2 tires
     
    ducnut likes this.
  20. 2blueYam

    2blueYam Track Day Addict

    Thanks! I may set them a bit lower going forward.
     
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