Sharpening 1/16" drill bits?

For the ones I haven't broken yet, I've had no luck at all using a grinding wheel to sharpen them. Perhaps its just my eyesight.

The "drill doctor" doesn't go that small. Is there a technique for sharpening small drill bits?

 

Buy another one.

 

Damn, I've never had one last more
than about 2 bolts. I gave up and went to 5/64's.

 

Use the cobalt bits, you can drill a whole bike with 1 if done properly..and yes, they cost more, but cut much better..:up:

 

Use a 1/16" center drill to start the holes. The faster the better...

 

Just buy more, they're cheap.

 

yeah use better drill bits, they'll last longer and make cleaner cuts. I get mine from Fastenal (mostly just because we have a company account there), I think they're cobalt but I forget. I build custom hand trucks for a big mcdonalds bakery and use those bits for drilling the pilot holes in the big ole stainless steel toe plates and roll pin holes in the axles. I can usually drill around 40 holes with those bits before I need to replace one. Also, using a drill press or a lightweight pneumatic drill makes it a little easier to keep a light touch and drill straight holes than a handheld electric drill, which will also make your bits last longer.

As for just using more cheap bits, that's great right up until you break off a bit and then you get to play with getting the broken bit out (sometimes easy, sometimes a giant pain in the ass). Use the right tools for the job the first time and you have a lot fewer problems IMO

 

I use a 1/8" center drill to start the holes. Just a spot and it's durable. I agree with getting a larger bit. I don't know what size I use but it's 5/64 or bigger. Technique and patience.

 

Let the bit do the work (don't apply pressure) and plenty-0 cutting oil or motor oil....

 

make sure you back out the bit often to clear metal shavings...

 

Buy better bits! Bits made for stainless steel last lots longer.

 

Oh yeah I have some cooling spray from Winzer I've been meaning to make a video of. It's amazing. I was a hard sell on thi stuff cause it didn't look to have any cutting oil in it. But you can seriously be spinning a drill bit going nowhere, reach over grab the can and spray a squirt and all of a sudden spiral segmented ladder chips will start spewing out of the hole! It's amazing.
I'll get the details Monday and maybe a video.

 

Winzer Cool Spray? That stuff is awesome. Shame it doesn't work on aluminum.

 

Damn. I thought I was cheap.

 

You can buy bits of a different diameter so they don't break or "stronger" bits, etc. Just like anything else, there is a technique that comes with experience that is necessary not to break bits. I learned how not because i was spending money on bits, but it would piss me off when the bit would break in the fastener.
If you work in a machine shop & break bits, your boss comes down on you because it's YOU who is breaking them. Regardless of what you want to think, breaking a bit is operator error.
There is a bit, speed & feed for every common metal & it's up to you to know how to drill through it without going through the owners bits like they're water.
It's all about technique, patience & planning. A lot of good info can likely be found in the 4,793 "how do i wire my new R6 with tribal graphics?" threads.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#metalworking-and-multi-purpose-drill-bits-and-rods/=bt59u3
Buy more than 12 at 89 cents a piece. That's about a dollar a piece shipped to your door. I haven't bough bits from the store in at least 10 years.
You're crazy to go & buy $5.00 a piece bits & think they are doing anything for your technique. Buy them cheap. Learn how to do a whole bike for under $5.00. If you spend more than that, you're doing it wrong.

1) Light cutting oil is your friend.
2) Ease the pressure DRASTICALLY when coming out the side of a hex head.

I'm disappointed if i use more than 3-4 bits on a whole bike.

 

Tap matic cutting fluid is pretty cool stuff. Been around a long time. Smells like it outta taste good too !!

Diesel works really good when drilling aluminum.

 

Thx for the responses guys. I'll try some of the McMaster ones (cobalt?)

I've always used a drill press, vise and cutting fluid, it just seems that the bits(Lowes' Milwaukee brand) only drill about 5 holes then they're dull. Seems like a waste to toss them, hence I was trying to sharpen them with no luck.

So I'll try some McMaster ones. (RD400racer - I'll get some 5/64" ones too)

 

I've had the same luck and was wondering what was the average. Is there an increase in the number of bolts drilled with the 5/64's?

 

One of the issues is that a drill motor doesn't go fast enough. Cutting speeds for screws, Grade 8 is the standard for most Socket Head Cap Screws, is between 60 and 100 cutting speed, the higher end (100), would be 6100 rpm for a 1/16 drill. But how rigid the set-up is, whether you are using a hand drill or a milling machine, makes a lot of difference in how long a drill lasts. A CNC mill, with the right speeds and feeds, might drill 5000 holes, with the same drill that you can only get 2 holes out of with a hand drill. Also, are you using a cutting oil (lubricant)? And when you are drilling using a hand drill, don't let it ride in the hole, either be pushing into the part (cutting), or pull it out of the hole, don't let it just rub in there, it will take the edge off the drill. Plus on alloy bolts, it could work harden the material, make a hard spot right where the drill is rubbing.

Hope this helps.

 

Buy quality bits and drill properly, and you'll have a bit last more than two bolts. Those expensive ass bits at home improvement stores are junk. All you're doing is paying for the packaging and brand name with those.

Smells like it, but makes your tongue go numb.