School me on enclosed trailer set-up

Discussion in 'General' started by L8 Braker, Mar 6, 2016.

  1. L8 Braker

    L8 Braker 'Murica

    True story. I'm in full agreement that he TRS system is bad ass. But it's not for everybody.

    As for noobness, I've been towing the bike the last 15 years with an open. I used a center chock with canyon dancers and never once had a bike drop, trailer dive or any other complication.

    But now I can hang my leathers inside (along with other amenities I didn't have with an open) and I'm looking to see how others maximize their space.

    Again, all advice is appreciated.
     
  2. fullmetalF4i

    fullmetalF4i C. Lee #826

    Can't argue with the TRS as I got rid of my trailer before they were around. No straps seems like it would be nice, but is it worth $300 to you I guess is the question.
    As far as the info you're looking for. I always used to pack my trailer in order of set up / break down. So right at the door I usually had my EZ up and chairs on the floor (or later on when I needed the space I just used some bungies to hold it against the wall.) Then I had my grill, because who doesn't like to eat as soon as you're done setting up. (rather than taking it out last and then having to cook when you're already spent from setting up)
    I only had 1 set of leathers to worry about so I just hung them from the metal framing members.
    My trailer was square and I had a workbench at the very front of the trailer for tools and some gear, but now I would get a rolling tool box and have that up against the side wall right behind the grill. Opposite side of the would be the generator creating the pathway to the bike. I had my trailer set up for 3 bikes side by side. Most times I just put the one bike in the center, but occasionally I would bring the street bike with me and thus would have to put the generator between the bikes.
    Just me, but I like to have my helmet in the truck. As many have talked about road hazards, I just felt better with that not having a chance of jarring loose and winding up hitting the floor.
    Stuff that wasn't in my trailer that I would have liked. As some have mentioned those door hanging clear plastic shoe racks are awesome for holding brake cleaner, wd40, pb blaster, water wetter, glass cleaner, pretty much all those cans and bottles that you could use at the track. Also I have it in my garage, the rubbermade wall track system. The bicycle holders work great for rear stands (just need to bungy them against the wall) and the hose or uitility hooks are good for wheels and tires and extension crds. At the front my buddy has a nice cubby system built in with a bungy net over the openings to hold in helmets, boots, and other gear.
    Get a 4'x8' sheet of plywood and cut it to the size of your side door and cut a hole into it for a window mounted AC unit. Bring it when you need it, leave it at home when you don't.
    If you can find some mis-cut or odd sized carpet those are super helpful in the pit sometimes as well as some sqares of plywood that are big enough for your stands to work on (places like Roebling where you're pitted on grass/dirt these are must haves)
     
  3. Banditracer

    Banditracer Dogs - because people suck

    I use a removable wheel chock in my 7x12 because I put a air mattress down at nite plus not tripping over it all day. 2 recessed D rings in the floor for the tie downs. One bike, on the left, in just enough to be able to close the ramp door. I went 7' high so I could put a shelf the full length of the trailer on the left side. I hung it high enough so I can just stand under it without wacking my head, I'm 5' 8". Helmets, boots, back protectors, gloves and all my spares go up there. I put 4 eye bolts in to hang leathers and stands from. Bolted thru the roof cross tubing, one per tube. Little dab of sealant over the bolt head on the roof.

    Like already said, keep the weight to the front.
     
  4. PATBAROK

    PATBAROK I <3 Poontang

    when I had my enclosed..
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    HEF211 likes this.
  5. That's ^ a really nice setup.

    Only thing I would do different than his setup is to have the bike to one side like FF said earlier. It gives you more room for generators, toolboxes, tires/wheels, to lay the canopy down, pit bike, tire cart and to walk around.

    The be only weighs 350-400lbs, that can easily be balanced out with other stuff.

    But of course it depends on how much stuff you typically bring and how elaborate your pit setup is.
     
    PATBAROK likes this.
  6. sdiver

    sdiver Well-Known Member

    My first "build" 5x8 Vee, learned some lessons with this one but still much better than my prior enclosed trailers:

    [​IMG]
     
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  7. L8 Braker

    L8 Braker 'Murica

    Nice! How'd you restrain the tool box?
     
  8. sdiver

    sdiver Well-Known Member

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  9. sdiver

    sdiver Well-Known Member

    Etrack on floor, Dring attachments, red ratchet strap you can see against wall reinforced 1" foam on wall behind box. Since the box is on wheels made it very easy to move but also stayed secure in transit.
     
  10. fastfreddie

    fastfreddie Midnight Oil Garage

    Ain't that the truth.

    I have eleven different bikes and room to load four in my trailer and another two in the bed of the pickup. One dedicated system offers no value for me. Should I buy six systems?

    For the record, I'd likely never take more than two bikes with me for riding, but which two will I take? Two complete systems plus an addition five adapters? $$.
    (Four of my bikes are not supported by the TRS, rendering the system useless in those applications).

    I will never go the TRS route.
    Yeah, I said never. :D

    More on topic...
    Shelving is key. Without it, you have a nightmare of too much crap on the floor. It starts to matter when loading/unloading.

    I used simple/cheap closet brackets to support a 3/8" plywood shelf in my 6x10. The shelf held 4-5 milkcrates, secured with a single rope tie, weaved through some eyebolts and hookbolts to create a web (like a one-sided shoe lace) with any two adjacent legs of the web retaining one crate each, tightened at one end with a quick-release.

    In my current 6.5x14 v-nose, I've used the same style brackets to build a shelf in the v-nose but I only use that as a staging area for tire tools and personal effects, etc., once I've arrived at my destination.
    The v is an obvious choice for a workbench, cabinets, full shelving system or any combination thereof. I put a tire machine there.
    A three-bin PitPass/Posse thing high on a side wall holds milkcrates, secured across the top with a bungee.
    Short sections of E-track mounted horizontally at various heights, both sides - front and rear, line the ends of my side walls.
    Much of the floor's perimeter/centerline is lined with longer E-track, and some shorter sections are used to mount removable chocks.
    Generator, spare tires, cooler, cot, etc., generally get secured wherever, along a wall or in the nose - depends on the situation.
    Toolbox is situational. I may bring a racebox, I may bring just enough to change tires and tweak suspension.
    Fuel drums are strapped in the forward E-track wall locations.
    EZ-UP, chairs, ramp(I have barn doors) and bike stands are strapped standing at the rear E-track wall locations.
    The toolbox and stuff in the shelf bins doesn't need to be brought out unless/until needed.
    A Powertank and fire extinguisher is mounted just inside the side door with an additional fire extinguisher mounted inside the rear door, all at floor level.

    Paint the walls white and insulate the ceiling.
    Paint your interior floor. Under coat the floor. I used deck paint underneath and laid vinyl on my floor in lieu of painting, held in place with the E-tracks. Otherwise, I would have used the same deck paint.
    If you have a tandem axle, check the alignment. 1/8" variation between axle-to-axle measurements from each side is the limit. You might even want to check if they are square to the coupler.

    Wiring for 110 power outlets - internal and external with an additional 30/50 amp external receptacle, AC, better lighting and a side window is on my maybe-do list.
     
  11. Tjnbark

    Tjnbark Member

    +1, I put so much in my hanging shoe storage I need to start using labels. Pit Posse storage units, tables are helpful.
     
  12. deepsxepa

    deepsxepa Hazardous

    I attached a big bungy cargo net to the ceiling for the light stuff (clothes, towels, etc.)

    it keeps stuff off out of the way and helps clothes stay clean. highly recommended..
     
    rk97 likes this.
  13. Banditracer

    Banditracer Dogs - because people suck

    That's a damn good idea. I'm going to do that. :beer:
     
  14. rk97

    rk97 Well-Known Member

    The TRS saved me at least 50 arguments with my wife while loading and unloading... It also allows you to place the bike much closer to the wall of the trailer. Huge space saver.

    But if you're against going that route, center the chock so the bike's weight is evenly distributed and then use e-track to secure the rest of your stuff. Don't make it more complicated than that.

    buy a bunch of stackable tubs and build a shelf to secure them. A decent cot, and you're set.
     
  15. Actually, it could still work. The TRS units aren't "one bike only", you just swap pins.

    So you could buy 4 TRS's, and 7 pins. Then use the TRS for those 7 bikes as needed.

    Then if you go to haul one of the unsupported bikes, just unpin the bracket which leaves nothing but the base plate behind (flat surface, no trip hazard). Then use your regular chocks for those bikes.

    Problem solved. :D

    And BTW, if you tell them about your bikes, they will likely make pins for them. I remember talking to them about the Grom when it first came out.
     
  16. V5 Racer

    V5 Racer Yo!

    I have 4 complete TRS systems, I can carry 5 bikes (3 in the toy hauler, 2 in the van) so I may end up with another in case I ever feel a "Broomeesque" weekend coming on where I will race every single race and require 5 bikes at the track LOL.

    My Baxley chock is now for when I a) have to transport one of my streetbikes that doesn't have TRS brackets b) buy another bike or c) have to transport a bike for one for my friends that are too cheapsh*t to have TRS brackets for their bike. "Team Yo! bike transport, we only bitch a little bit!".
     
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  17. rk97

    rk97 Well-Known Member

    I have never had this done, but my understanding is that the WORST case scenario is that you'll have to ship them your axle to take measurements for said pins. Solid axles require a "cup" to attach to the TRS, I believe - that's based on viewing wide-angle pics of someone's race prepped EX250.

    They're engineers... they'll figure something out.
     
  18. fastfreddie

    fastfreddie Midnight Oil Garage

    Like I said, two complete systems, plus five additional adapters? $$
    That buys way more Ancra and Pingel than I'll ever need at one time.
    I'm just not convinced it's a solution for me...I hate to spend good money on items that perform one function that can otherwise be provided with another known that performs a multitude of functions.

    I have concerns about the twisting/side loads transferred to swingarm bushings/bearings and the axle bearings, too. There's no evidence one way or the other that I'm aware of, but I'm not subjecting my bikes to stresses it likely wasn't designed to take beyond normal operation. Too much potential leverage on those components when using the TRS and hittin' the highways repeatedly, over and over again.

    FWIW, I use a chock and strap down and slightly forward from the rearsets or subframe - pulling the bike into the chock. It's rock solid. I put a canyon dancer on with the straps running parallel to the forks as viewed from the side, just enough tension to provide insurance.
    If I don't have a chock, I pull straight down with the rearset mounted straps, the front straps go to the lower triple.
    Either way, I make sure the front straps run parallel to the forks.

    Yeah, I know the TRS is kick-ass...I hear all about it talkin' to the peeps that love 'em. :D
    Still doesn't change my way of thinkin'. ;)
     
  19. Kurlon

    Kurlon Well-Known Member

    10494634_665766990143134_3687074788593136090_n.jpg
    Trailer loaded. Left bike is held in place by a Pitbul TRS. Pitbike up front to the right is in a Lockhart Phillips wheel chock.
    11148348_853428501376981_8964248113131333115_n.jpg 11407055_853428518043646_3663286991285565919_n.jpg
    At the track, TRS comes out, leaving me flat floor space. I toss a cot, TV tray and folding table in to make it 'home'. The TV Tray at the head of my cot is there to keep me from tripping on the wheel chock underneath. The TRS limits the number of tiedown points I need, keeping the floor mostly bare and free of potential things to stub my toes on or worse.

    The downside to this setup is having to unload, THEN setup the cot/etc to sleep, and having to tear that all out before packing up.
     
  20. masshole

    masshole sixoneseven

    I usually would leave one of the bike spots open for alternate/ non TRS securing, new bikes or other people's bikes to avoid having to stock up 20 different pins and still being short. Nothing wrong with the canyon dancers (the cup style ones) and e track with D rings.
    The front wheel chock doesn't have to be bolted down to the floor, I have 2 Titans that weigh at least 50 lbs each and use them also in the pits.
     

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