Safety wire requirements

Discussion in 'Information For New Racers' started by lopitt85, Apr 11, 2020.

  1. lopitt85

    lopitt85 Well-Known Member

    So one thing that the last few weeks have made me realize is that you need to enjoy what you can while you can.

    I had been planning to get my first race in at some point this year but might as well make it sooner rather than later.

    Bike is a 2008 GSXR 600, stock motor, M4 slip on, vortex rear sets, ENC rotors and HH sintered pads, Annitori QS2 Pro quickshifter (just added), front and rear axle slider, Shogun frame sliders and spool/axle sliders. Bike was setup for track from a low mileage bike (less than 1500).

    I have already safety wire all of the front axle pinch bolts, front brake caliper bolts, waterpump drain bolt, oil pan drain bolt, oil filter, rear axle bolt, and rear brake caliper bolt.

    What else needs to be wired to race WERA?
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2020
  2. lopitt85

    lopitt85 Well-Known Member

    I've also worked the oil fill cap.
     
  3. Mechdziner714

    Mechdziner714 More Gas Less Brakes

    2. All racebikes must meet WERA requirements. A racebike will not pass Technical Inspection and will not be marked with a Tech Sticker until the racebike is in complete compliance and the rider has completed and submitted his Contingency Tech Verification Form. If any of the items to be inspected are hidden from view by bodywork, those sections of bodywork must be removed prior to arrival at technical inspection. Oil retaining lowers must be removed priot to arrival at tech inspection.
    a) The following item must be safety wired, or secured in a manner approved by Tech:

    axles or axle nuts
    oil filler caps
    kickstarter retaining bolts
    axle caps and/or pinch bolts
    oil drain plug(s)
    removable exhaust baffles
    brake caliper bolts
    *oil gallery plugs
    radiator caps
    brake torque arms
    oil lines
    coolant drains
    speedo and tach cables
    spin on oil filters/filter bolts
    any pressure fed lubricant line
    *fork oil drain screws/bolts
    rear exhaust mount(s) (all)
    *brake pad retaining pins

    *may be secured by silicone glue or weather-strip adhesive in lieu of wiring.

    a1)Substantial gauge “R” type spring clips may be used in certain applications but must be wired to the machine. Tab washers designed to accept safety wire may be used. Safety pin style clips may be used on most items but NOT on oil drains or oil filters or any fluid lines/fluid holding bolts.
    a2)A catch can shall be fitted where required or at the direction of a Technical Inspector.
    a3)Kawasakis wth a stock oil filter clamp must use an additional hose clamp.
    b) Fuel lines and any other fluid carrying lines must be clamped (using hose clamps) or secured by some other appropriate means.
    c) Water cooled engines may use plain water, or water with Redline (or similar product, call WERA for verification) cooling system rust and corrosion inhibitor at 0.5 ounces per quart of plain water concentration, Silkolene Pro CCA (Corrosion Control Additive) and Royal Purple Purple Ice are also allowed. Glycol based antifreezes are prohibited.
    d) All pre 2001 Suzuki GSX-Rs must have engine case guards installed around the right and left sides of the engine, extending beyond the frame, and are subject to the WERA Technical Inspector’s approval. Case guards on the left side of 1995-97 Kawasaki ZX6R’s are suggested but not required. Yamaha FZR 400, FZR600 and YZF600 machines must have an engine case guard on the right side of the engine. Heavy-duty aluminum replacement covers may be used in lieu of case guards. Stock case covers with extra metal welded on to make them thicker may also be used. 06/07 Yamaha R6’s must used a tank guard of some sort on the sections that extend past the frame rail on either side.. The guard must be approved by tech.
    e) Only one engine at a time may be used.
    f) Only gasoline may be used as a racebike fuel. Nothing may be added to the gasoline except commercially available, approved octane boosters and lubricating oils. No oxygen or nitrogen bearing additives (i.e.: NOS) in any Superbike or Superstock based class.
    g) All racebikes must have an operating and marked engine kill switch on the handlebars. Dead man tethers are allowed and are suggested.
    h) All racebikes must have a self-closing throttle and operating front and rear brakes.
    i) Kick-start levers are allowed to remain on the machine however they must be secured to keep them from swinging out.
    j) Glass and plastic lenses must be taped. Clear tape may not be used.
    k) Side and center stands must be removed.
    l) A steering damper is MANDATORY on all machines and must be mounted in a safe and workmanlike manner. The damper must not overly limit the amount of stock lock-to-lock handlebar travel.
    m) The license plate and bracket(s) must be removed.
    n) Items are deemed safe only if secured in a visible, approved manner. Aircraft nuts, locknuts, Locktite or similar compound is not acceptable.
    o) The seat or fender must extend toward the rear, past a line drawn vertically through the rear axle.
    p) The rider, in position, must be fully visible from the side and top. Transparent material may not be used to circumvent this rule. No streamlining may be attached to the rider or helmet.
    q) The machine must be clean.
    r) Tires must be in good condition as determined by the technical Inspector. No off road knobby tires may be used in any class. No recapped or retreaded tires may be used in any class unless they have been manufactured by a D.O.T. approved facility in compliance with CFR 571 and are tested using Laser Shearography during the manufacturing process. Glued, pre-cured retreads are not allowed.
    s) Tire valve caps must be used and should be metal or hard plastic.
    t) If speedometer and tach cables (not wires) are installed, they must be safety wired.
    u) Sidecovers that “snap-on” must be removed, wired, taped or bolted in place.
    v) All race machines must use muffling devices that limit the sound to 105dBA. The noise level will be measured while the machine is on the track during practice sessions and racing events. A static test may be used off track to measure the noise level by holding the dB meter at 48 inches and at a 45 degree angle from the exhaust opening(s). The engine will be steady at 1/2 of redline during this test. If a machine measures over the limit with either test it will not be allowed to participate in any further events during the weekend until it has been brought under compliance. Riders may also be fined or otherwise penalized for non compliance. Certain race tracks may require lower limits and at these tracks those sound limits will be enforced and noted on race entry information.
    w) Glass headlight covers must be removed. Plastic may be taped over or removed.
    x) Clutch and Brake levers must have at least a 1/2” ball on the end.
    y) Handlebar ends must have either: (1) end-plugs; (2) be solid; or (3) stock bar-ends must be retained. Handlebar ends may not be hollow or ground to a sharp edge.
    z)All machines are required to have a lower fairing capable of holding 5 quarts of liquid. Machines not equipped with a lower fairing from the manufacturer may have a custom piece fitted. Any machine which has a newer or OEM “race” model may use the newer models fairing to comply with this rule (i.e. the TL1000S may use the lowers from a TL1000R). In Superstock classes lowers must be OEM spec with any necessary holes filled in. Lowers must be attached in a manner approved by tech.
    aa) All machines must have a sticker placed on the triple clamp or gas tank reading “GP” or “STD” depending on the shift pattern used by your machine. These stickers will be available at tech.
    bb) Brake pad retaining pins must be secured in a visible manner such as an R Clip or safety wire, silicone is acceptable but not preferred.
     
  4. chrisplm

    chrisplm Well-Known Member

    So just to be sure, what about Brake line Banjo Bolts?
     
  5. javyday

    javyday Well-Known Member

    Banjo bolts do not have to be wired
     
    chrisplm likes this.
  6. chrisplm

    chrisplm Well-Known Member

    Great, Thank you for Clarifying
     
  7. lopitt85

    lopitt85 Well-Known Member

    Mexhdziner714, thanks for posting that. As I read through it I noted what I have already wired and what I still need to. But I have some questions as well.

    Already done
    -rear axle nut
    -front axle pinch bolts
    -front caliper bolts
    -rear caliper bolts
    -oil fill cap
    -oil filter
    -oilpan drain bolt
    -waterpump drain bolt

    I still need to wire the radiator cap.

    Questions on listed requirements:

    -oil gallery plug: is this another name for the -oilpan drain bolt? If so, that's done already

    -brake torque arm: what the heck is that?

    -oil lines: lines on the oil cooler hoses are secured with screw type hose clamps. Good enough?

    -coolant hose clamps: also secured with screw type hose clamps. Good enough?

    -any pressure fed lubricant line: is this referring to brake lines/clutch fluid lines? If so the manufactured ends are good enough, right?

    -fork oil drain screws/bolts: where are these? I've checked the service manual's exploded view and dont see it labled.

    -rear exhaust mounts: I have a shorty M4 slip on, the kind that barely sticks out past the lower fairing. Is this saying that the bolt and nut that mounts it to the bottom of the frame needs to be safety wired?

    -brake pad retaining pins: I see where I can buy some extended ones that are pre-drilled. And if I read that correctly I can also use a dab of silicone on my stock one pins and that would be good enough, right?

    -fuel/fluid carrying lines must be clamped: my stock fuel lines are the heavy duty plastic locking type. Are those good or do I have to replace them with regular fuel hose and clamps?

    -side stands must be removed: would it suffice to drill a hole and safety wire it up? If it has to be removed, what do I do about the side stand kill switch that prevents the bike from running?

    -locknuts not allowed: was just curious as to why. I've never seen a locknut fail and loosen.

    Are these sensible questions or am I overthinking it?

    Is there anyone who races the same bike that doesn't mind posting pictures of everything that they had to safety wire or upgrade/change clamps?

    I think that would be a great resource to newbies like me who feel like we're drowning when we start reading the safety wire requirements. Like a picture guide for a lot of the common bikes in the different classes.
     
  8. Mongo

    Mongo Administrator

    Gallery plugs are on the engine, higher up that the drain - don't stress on those, bring some silicone with you and we'll allow a temp fix when tech shows you what they are and where they are on your bike.

    A lot of modern bikes don't have a torque arm, it's on older ones to keep the rear brake caliper from moving, modern ones are limited by the swingarm.

    No need to wire hose clamps.

    No need to wire the brake/clutch hydraulics.

    Some bikes may not have a fork drain, don't worry about it.

    Anything that mounts the exhaust to the bike other than the head bolts/studs needs to be wired. If there is a hanger for the pipe then where it connects to the pipe has to be wired as well as where the bracket mounts to the bike assuming it is via bolts not a weld.

    Any visible method of securing the retaining pins works including silicone.

    Stock fuel line connections are fine.

    Side stand must come off. You can jump the connector to disable the switch, someone who has your bike can answer specifically but it's easy.

    locknuts instead of wiring aren't allowed because we have no idea the age of the nuts or if they've been tightened properly or the like. Safety wire we can see at tech or on the grid or wherever and know that item is secured.

    You are overthinking it but that is totally normal. Just bring a tube of silicone with you and you'll be fine on all the oddball little stuff if the majors are done. Our job is to get you on track not keep you in the paddock or send you home. Also remember everyone you'll talk to has been where you are and understand being lost :D
     
    sheepofblue, mpusch and lopitt85 like this.
  9. DBConz

    DBConz Registered Idiot

    i wasnt sure on mine, so i also safety wired the center nut in the clutch cover.
    my 06 GSXR is the same bike as yours.
    i've wired:
    • front axle
    • fork pinch bolts
    • front caliper bolts
    • front brake pad pins
    • oil filter - mine is K&N so it's wired at the nut and a wired clamp
    • water pump drain
    • clutch cover center nut
    • oil cap
    • oil drain bolt
    • radiator cap
    • exhaust hanger bolts
    • rear brake caliper bolts
    • rear brake brake pad pin
    • rear axle

    other items i've wired that arent required are:
    • lower triple pinch bolts
    • shark fin guard bolts
    • exhaust hanger hooks

    you do not want to drill your banjo bolts

    I no longer wire the 1st and 4th exhaust header bolts as that requirement has been removed from all my local race org rule books.
     
  10. PeaPod

    PeaPod Active Member

    What is with this? Is this really required? I have never used a damper on my bike. Have not raced WERA, but this seems an interesting requirement.

    l) A steering damper is MANDATORY on all machines and must be mounted in a safe and workmanlike manner. The damper must not overly limit the amount of stock lock-to-lock handlebar travel.
     
  11. TurboBlew

    TurboBlew Registers Abusers

    yeap... easy enough to remedy
     
  12. Mongo

    Mongo Administrator

    Absolutely required and the reason is simple, seen way too many high speed crashes on all sizes of bikes without them or without functioning ones. It's one of those stupid things you don't need - right up until that instant you really really need it...
     
    noles19, DmanSlam and sheepofblue like this.

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