I have just started prepping my R6 for the track and would appreciate any helpful tips from those that have done this. Pretty much anything regarding safety wiring, sidestand bypass(if the R6 needs this) and any other WERA requirements would be appreciated. My first dilemna is that I am planning on running stock bodywork, but am not sure how I am supposed to make the lower fluid tight. I was considering using fiberglass to make it fluid tight and protect that with heat shield. What does anyone think about this approach? Thanks
sell the stock stuff and look for some used bodywork should be able to find some. the stock stuff is just going to explode if it hits the ground...
Sell the stock stuff!! I'm doing the same right now. You'll be able to afford almost 2 sets of race plastic, by selling your stock stuff.
you have to have a belly pan of some sort.......and if not you have to use the alum pans like the old vintage guys .....so yes sell the stock plastic (which you will be happy you did because it will die the first crash you take).....pick up a set of sharkskins or akcomposite plastics.....you should have enough money left over from selling the stock stuff to buy a rear shock and get it serviced...... check into the wera safety wiring requirements and start drilling....I would just stay stock on the exhaust etc until you get out there and get some track experience and become competitive....spend the money on the suspension and safety gear
I have some lightly scratched up blue stock bodywork. I can make you a WERA legal lower out of it. The mids, upper and tail are all also skuffed, but nothing is broken. eddie
The sidestand needs to come off to pass tech inspection. The switch is bypassed by jumpering the 2 wires going to the switch together. As for the bodywork, you could rig something up, but you would be money and time ahead to shop around for some used race stuff. If you end up just buying a lower, make sure it will mate up with a stock upper. Lockwire all of the usual stuff like oil drain and fill,filter,coolant drain,rad. cap,exhaust mounts,caliper bolts,axles and pinch bolts and any cover with fluid behind it that has less than 3 bolts holding it on. Then stand back and think about what would happen if something came loose(or off) at speed and wire it too. Just because it is not required by WERA to wire, does not mean it wouldn't be a good idea to do. I use 1/16 th in. cobalt bits, .032 wire for bigger stuff like axles, .025 for smaller stuff like oil fill and dip stick and .020 for grips and tiny stuff. If you are shopping for lock wire pliers, I've had good luck with Milbar. tom
Thanks guys...the more I get into this the more I am starting to realize that I am probably gonna end up spending this summer attending trackdays, buying part and prepping the bike to race the following summer. Its pretty much a financial restriction (as I am sure it is with everybody)...but with a transponder, steering damper, engine covers, etc. its adding up quick. Thanks for the help, and I think with the extra time I'll start looking for used race bodywork. However, when reading the rules it states that to be superstock (which is what I want) the bodywork has to match OEM. Who makes identical bodywork?
Pretty much any bodywork you buy will be identical to the OEM silhouette. You don't have to have case covers for the R6 but they are strongly recommended. The damper is a must whether it's trackday or club racing. I wouldn't turn a wheel on the track without a damper. You can get out there for about $1000 with what you have now. Get the suspension done as you get faster unless you're well over 200lbs you'll be fine with the stock suspension for a while Remember, you can rent the transponders at the track.
